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Is this orange peel? If so, how do i get rid of it?

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Phamoushao, Dec 19, 2018.

  1. Phamoushao


    Nov 11, 2018
    I am not sure how to fix this, please help!


    Attached Files:

  2. jchrisk1

    jchrisk1 Supporting Member

    Nov 15, 2009
    Northern MI
    Looks like debris or air. Most likely debris if some sort. Probably sanding dust, or dust in the air falling in it. You could sand it out and respray it if you find it worthwhile.
    RobertUI and Ross W. Lovell like this.
  3. Stumbo

    Stumbo Wherever you go, there you are. Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 11, 2008
    the Cali Intergalctic Mind Space
    Song Surgeon slow downer software- full 4 hour demo
    Is it inside the hole?

    It may be tiny bubbles. If you sand it you may have to match the color for it to look right.
  4. Phamoushao


    Nov 11, 2018
    It's not inside the hole, what do you mean I have to match the color? I am a beginner at painting guitars, so I do really know much. It only has 2 coats of clear on it, do I wetsand it, and with what grit?
  5. Ross W. Lovell

    Ross W. Lovell

    Oct 31, 2015

    I think you have some type of contamination.

    What did you wipe it down to remove dust before spraying?

    Did you have that BEFORE you clear coated?

    You might need to respray the color if your sanding gets too aggressive.
  6. Phamoushao


    Nov 11, 2018
    I wiped it down with a microfiber cloth, and it was there before clear coats. Should I put on more clear coats and wet sand and polish to get rid of it? If i have to remove the clear coat and paint and restart, I might just live with it.:bassist:
  7. FunkHead

    FunkHead Supporting Member

    Mar 10, 2007
    That looks like fisheyes. Commonly caused by silicone. Either sprayed nearby or from a cloth contaminated by it.
    Axstar likes this.
  8. Phamoushao


    Nov 11, 2018
    Oh ok! How exactly would I get rid of the fisheye, without having to restart completely?
  9. Ross W. Lovell

    Ross W. Lovell

    Oct 31, 2015
    Fisheyes can be removed with an additive, they actually make a fisheye remover. It's an additive.

    That looks more like contamination, it needs to be sealed from the next coat, not sure how you would do that.

    OR, it needs to be sanded down and recoated.

    Not a fan of microfiber rags, the process seems to impart something into the cloth that causes issues.

    NOW! THIS IS JUST ME! So heed at your own discretion. I've painted cars, motorcycles, equipment for years. I've used $45.00 a gallon thinner and prep agents. They work. I've also used 95% isopropyl alcohol for the last 2 years and have had great results.
  10. Stumbo

    Stumbo Wherever you go, there you are. Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 11, 2008
    the Cali Intergalctic Mind Space
    Song Surgeon slow downer software- full 4 hour demo
    Fisheyes - Surface Contamination - Sherwin-Williams

    Small circular, crater-like openings that appear during or shortly after the application.


    Painting over surfaces contaminated with oil, wax, silicone, grease, etc.
    Use of thinner/reducer in place of a solvent cleaner.
    Spraying over previously repaired areas containing "fisheye eliminator" additive.

    See Lead Information.
    Remove wet paint film with solvent, clean and refinish.

    Add the recommended fisheye eliminator and respray the affected area.

    If fisheyes appear in a basecoat, allow the color to flash then spray a mist coat over affected area. Do not use fisheye eliminator in undercoats or basecoat color.

    If the paint has dried, sand to a smooth finish below the fisheye cratering and refinish.

    Thoroughly clean the surface to be painted with detergent and hot water, followed by the recommended solvent cleaner. Wipe dry with clean rags.

    Install an air filtering system that removes and prevents oil and moisture contamination.

    Maintain air supply by draining, cleaning and changing filter(s) on a routine basis.
  11. Sure looks like you applied paint to the bare wood tuner holes or maybe it's just shadows because of the darkness of the paint and photo.
    If you did spray inside the hole it's going to be a lot harder to reinstall the furrels and tuners.
    They are purposely a tight fix to begin with.
    I'd start the process over, paint, let dry, sand, paint again, let dry, sand then do the same with the clear coat.
    Once you get it right, smooth and darn pretty, you'll be proud and relish the great paint job your bass has.
    Nothing like honest bragging rights.
    Spidey2112 likes this.
  12. CatchaCuda


    Feb 3, 2018
    Transfer, PA
    I had to sand the paint out of my tuner holes on my last refinish. Now I know better.
  13. Spidey2112


    Aug 3, 2016
    Nickweissmusic and armyadarkness like this.
  14. wildman2


    Jun 8, 2016
    To the left of the hole it looks like it was sprayed too heavy, kinda mottled wavy looking .The hole are looks sprayed too heavy with some type of contamination around the edges.The little dots on the right look like bubbles or contamination or fish eye cant really tell.Prolly have to do some sanding cleaning and sealing of some sort..Never painted a guitar but did paint parts for 23 yrs on a continuous cure line for rubber seals.Seen all of what I mentioned if Id put too much paint on and/or chunks of rubber burning in the oven dusting the part with ash(contamination). Or if oil mist got on the part or it rubbed against the oven walls before parts were painted..
  15. StatesideRambler


    Jul 1, 2015
    Left of the hole is orange peel: a coat was applied too thickly or applied before the prior coat had fully dried. Patience. Right of the hole is contamination: make sure the painting area is clean from beginning to end and wipe the workpiece with a tack cloth shortly before painting. Do not clear coat until the base finish is right.
  16. Seems like sanding dust, sand from being sprayed/painted in a non-dustfree environment.

    I would leave it one, otherwise my suggestion would be to sand it down and respray.
  17. You say that it has two coats of clear on it... Where the clear and the base color the same product? It's nearly impossible to tell from your picture, but having painted hundreds of guitars, cars, and motorcycles, it looks like solvent lift to me.

    Are you using spray cans?

    If so, you're only ever going to get a "pretty good" paint job, because they don't have hardner in them... So if you did your base color with enamel, and then cleared with laquer, the clear would "lift" or re-liquify the base paint.

    And even when using the same colors... without hardner, this often occurs when applying clear over base, because the carrier solvents in the clear, will/ can destroy the base coat. It's tricky business.

    Bottom line... if you're using spray cans, make sure that the base and clear are the same product
    Spidey2112 likes this.
  18. Axstar


    Jul 8, 2016
    East of Eden.
    Another vote for 'fish eyes'. I can't spray paint at all, but in trying I've encountered pretty much every contamination issue, incompatability error and general problem you can encounter.

    It is hard to tell if we are looking at the light catching the edge of numerous pits in the finish (fish eyes) or pale dust trapped in the finish, but if the OP reckons it is orange peel then this suggests holes in the finish.

    I would sand back to bare wood and wipe the wood with mineral spirits or naptha ahead of spraying any more paint. I would also go for more, thinner coats. This looks like it was sprayed thickly.

    When fish eyes appear the temptation is there to keep spraying until they fill in. This doesn't work!
  19. Phamoushao


    Nov 11, 2018
    Since I have only sprayed 2 medium coats of clear, would wet sanding down to the paint, without damaging the paint, allow me to sand the mistakes in the color coat out, respray color, and clear again? Thanks for all the help posters.
  20. JoeH


    Jul 28, 2014
    Chattanooga, TN
    Depending, I would take it all the way back down as this looks like dust that was on the finish when you put the clear on. Proper way to paint would be down to wood and apply a good primer. Here you want to do a wet sand with some 500 grit to smooth out the primer. Wipe it down with post sanding cleaner then prior to laying your base color you want to wipe it down with a tack cloth then spray your base. Once the base has dried hit it with a tack cloth again and spray your clear. I like to do 4 - 5 med wet coats allowing each coat to tack up before the next. Once you let it cure for a couple of days I then wet sand from 800 up to 2000 grit sandpaper and then buff it out with my 3M imperial glaze.

    However, you might luck out by doing a light wet sand and hitting with a few more coats of clear then wet sand and buff. It won't be a perfect paint job but good enough for government work!

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