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Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by DWLANG, Apr 27, 2019.
+1. (Though I actually prefer the look of the stock bridge)
I made the change primarily for adjustability (the Hipshot can't be beat for that) and looks (wanted black hardware to match the black and white bass) I didn't notice any change in tone. Still a nice fat sound with excellent of sustain, even with flats. The ultralite tuners are great as well.
Thanks all, you have confirmed my suspicions and the original bridge will stay on going forward, as I have it set up really well right now and don't see changing strings for several more years at a minimum.
I like the original, offshore oil rig bridge.
I like the way it looks, and I feel the engineers who designed the bass did it for a reason.
If you changed your bridge, and like the results, that's great.
I felt the bridge to be just slightly busy, so I put a Gibson bridge cover on her like my EB-2D had, solution found.
As long as it is your bass do anything you want, you may like the change or not but you will know either way! IMHO only!
OH, sorry, like this.
I had a Hipshot, and didn't notice any real difference in tone, though it was easier to make adjustments. But to be honest, I really never have to make any adjustments, and my Hipshot never really sat flush on the arched top of my JCB...
I saw that would be an issue and called the folks at Hipshot asking how to deal with the flat bottom bridge/arched top bass. They said to add small felt pads to the bottom of the bridge by the rear ferrules.
For anyone considering adding the Hipshot Supertone bridge be sure to do this. It works great.
The pads are the kind used for kitchen cabinet doors. Inexpensive and self adhesive.
They lift the bridge to accommodate the arch top nicely.
Pads not needed on the front of the bridge. There is a recessed slot for the front ferrule. The bridge sits flush.
That is a cool idea. I did not find those necessary in my case. I installed mine mounted all the way down flush, and it is still a couple millimeters away from the body, and the action is nice and low, just perfect.
I used these...
how long have you had them on? can you tell if they have reacted with the finish?
don't they get compressed when tightening the bridge to the ferrules? what purpose do they serve?
Silicone elastomers are in most car polishes so shouldn't react with a hard cured finish. But I'll let you know if it does!
The ones I got were quite dense and had very little compression. The purpose is to compensate for the arch top shape of the bass where the rear ferrules are. The bridge has a flat bottom. The top of the bass at the front ferrule is flat so no pads needed there.
@xnewyorka didn't need pads (see his photos above). Mine definitely did (but not by much) so there must be slight variations in the amount of arch from bass to bass.
i know the bridge is flat. i know the top of the bass is arched but why do the pads need to be there? the bridge is rigid and the three points of contact with the ferrules is fine. seems that the pads are inconsequential. does the bridge needs support between the ferrules? will the metal bend without the pads?
still trying to visualize the situation. are you saying that your top is so arched that the bridge can’t make contact with the ferrules? if so, then are your mounting screws not fully tightened into the ferrules? without the pads, does tightening the screws end up unseating the ferrules from the top?
Looks like the ferrules are not quite flush with the top. That happened to mine as well.
I'll stick with the stock bridge, which I find to work just fine, and I can't recall the last time I needed to make much of an adjustment on my JCB?
My Alpine White JCB is my #1, and I finally have a blue one coming any day now that I found in a guitar shop in Rome Italy. Pix of the rare blue to be posted when it comes in...
Anyway...thanks to many of you posting great pictures of your gold tops, especially those with the pickguards off, I pulled the trigger on a great priced goldtop JCB yesterday....the plan is to keep this as a practice bass in my classroom, and perhaps on stage if I really fall in love with it over the white or blue.
The first thing I usually do is to take off the numbered circle around the VariTone knob and put on new knobs. I prefer Gibson PRMK-10 top hats w/ silver inserts. For the goldtop, however, I might keep the gold speed knobs on. Will a gold speedknob work in the place of the black chickenhead knob on the VariTone switch?
I just had my local L&M install the Hipshot bridge as part of a set up. I haven't had a good look at what they did, but it appears they added something to avoid crushing the bridge into the arch top.