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Just a Nut: how hard can it be?

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by BassBastard, Mar 27, 2006.


  1. Hi there! I'm thinking of buying the warwick brass nut to replace my broken graphite one. I'm just wondering if it's easy to do so or should I leave it to my luthier? I'm saying this because I've never messed around with a nut and I don't know how the just-a-nut-I works...do I have to glue it or...what? Hope anyone can help, thanks :)
     
  2. Please? Anyone? I just don't wanna go like the other guy who messed up and then blamed the product. Thanks
     
  3. Groundloop

    Groundloop

    Jun 21, 2005
    Toronto
    I'm not sure how you go about removing your old nut (maybe the info at the top of this page http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/A-NUTS.html will help), but the brass just a nut on my Warwick isn't glued in. A good thing too, since it tarnishes quite easily and it's easier to polish when it's off the bass.
     
  4. bannedwit

    bannedwit

    May 9, 2005
    Buffalo, NY
    I jsut had the adjust a nut removed from my Warwick basses... I had them installed with new (not-broken ones).

    Story time:
    You have to be careful when re-stringing. If you put the first or last string on first then the tension causes the adjust a nut tabs to break off... This happened to both my warwicks. I got 2 new adjust a nuts sent to me and I re-installed them so they are perfect.

    Technique:
    All I did to remove the nut was to take a flat head screwdriver and an extra one for a hammer...
    I put the flat head tip between the neck and nut (in the corner not flush) as best as i could (on a nice downward angle towards the higher strings). I gave the flat head some light taps with the other screw drivers handle (like a hammer) and it popped right down. The nuts have super glue to keep them in place, but the light screwdriver pry technique makes it no sweat.

    I re-installed the other nut with super glue and i slid it down from low string to high strings and held pressure until it dried...

    ALL YOU NEED TO BE CONCERNED WITH IS IF WARWICK USES THE SAME SIZE NUT FOR ADJUST A NUT AND THE BRASS ONE.
    if it is off then the nut will be floating or need some sanding to fit...

    hope this helps.
     
  5. I've checked the size and it seems the same (47mm) so it's all good :) but I was wondering Groundloop, if it's not glued doens't the tension on the strings pull it "up" (in the direction of the lower strings)? My bass is a 5 string and that means 3 of them are pulling up and 2 down, maybe with 4 strings that ain't a problem. I have just one more question...how do you adjust a nut? As I said, I've never messed with it...just played with the factory settings and I know how to raise or lower the strings but don't know how to tell if it's right.
     
  6. bannedwit

    bannedwit

    May 9, 2005
    Buffalo, NY
    I noticed when I glued it that the nut was a bit raised and the reason why superglue didnt take on the first try was because I wasnt pressing so the nut touched the neck. Second run I fixed this and added string tension while it dried and I am all good.

    Super glue it for safe keeping. If the nuts are the same size then go for it.

    Let me know how it sounds and tell me what you think. I am curious.
     
  7. Thanks :) I'll let you know!
     
  8. Groundloop

    Groundloop

    Jun 21, 2005
    Toronto
    Mine doesn't shift on me, but my 'Wick is a 4 string so that might explain it. As far as knowing if the string height is right, only you can say. Obviously it has to be high enough that you don't get open string buzzing on the 1st fret, but not so high that playing in first position is uncomfortable. You'll just have to spend some time tweaking.
    FWIW: The G string nut slot is adjusted so low on my Streamer fretless that a business card slipped under the strings gets stuck at the 1st fret position. Me likey low action on a fretless!!!!
     
  9. Low action for me too please! :) I read through some posts that when the nut is too low it makes a click behind the fretted note even though the open string doesn't buzz or anything. I guess it's gonna a bit tricky
     
  10. bannedwit

    bannedwit

    May 9, 2005
    Buffalo, NY
    Low sometimes means truss rod adjustment is the only way to get it the way you want it...

    Low action = lower truss rod and saddles...
    Truss rod: more bow = higher center, less bow = less center and more of a straight to back bending makes strings closer. (less bow means tighten truss rod). Start with a straight neck and make it so the bass strings are even all the way down if possible
     
  11. Yap, I'm on it...I'm having a bit of trouble actually 'cause I've been following all the steps (1/8 of turn a day being careful not to turn when there's too much resistance) and the neck just doesn't move at all... well, it has moved a little but it's been almost two weeks, it should have moved more... a lot more I guess. I'm gonna do a search and see what I can find on the forum.
     
  12. The answer seems to be to wait.... :rollno: this bass is a little teaser....waited forever for it to arrive, 2 days before it arrived I broke my arm so I could't play it. Now I'm all good and I still have to wait...

    DDDDOOOOOOOOOHHHHHH!!!!!
     
  13. bannedwit

    bannedwit

    May 9, 2005
    Buffalo, NY
    I usually do a truss rod adjustment and turn until I hear the wood / truss rod "clang" inside the neck. It is usually 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn and you will hear that... From there I give the neck a little tension in the direction I want it to go and it sets quite fine in no time. after 20 minutes I know it wont go anywhere else.
    ^^^^
    Did you make sure your strings were loosened before doing the truss rod adjustment? if they are tuned to pitch then no doubt you will have tension and not notice a difference in the concavity ofthe neck.
     
  14. I did loosen them sometimes...but since the results were pretty much the same I stopped doing it. I'll try it again, thanks for the suggestion!
     
  15. Groundloop

    Groundloop

    Jun 21, 2005
    Toronto
    Be careful with the truss rod, as you may have one of the aluminum ones that Warwick used in the '90s. I snapped the nut on my aluminum rod due to a lack of patience. Luckily my Warwick dealer had one in stock so I was able to get up and running pretty fast. Since then I've been doing as bannedwit suggested, make the adjustment and then give the neck some gentle persuasion in the direction you want it to go. The key word? Gentle.
     
  16. Mine's surely not the aluminum version as the bass is from 2002, but I'll be gentle anyway...I always am hehehe. Maybe I'll post some pics when I have the new nut :)
     
  17. i see some nuts are made out of brass. well i like to fabricate with metal. would a nut made out of billit aluminum be worth doing? has anyone ever seen or heard of one? thanks for yalls reply, mike
     

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