Just installed some new pickups

Discussion in 'Pickups & Electronics [BG]' started by Cannon-Fodder, Dec 21, 2002.

  1. I just (about an hour ago) installed a set of Semore Duncan quarter pounders in my late 80's Squire Bullet Bass. The diference is incredable.

    However now I have a buzz that wasn't there before, I can't tell if it is a bad ground solder or I need better sheilding or some thing else.

    The buzz will go away if I touch any of the metal parts of the base (bridge, strings, volume/tone nobs, etc...) I can also turn down the tone controll about half way which will also get rid of the buzz.

    I have a feeling it is a bad ground solder but I though I would ask for any other suggestions here before I opened the bass back up.

  2. JOME77

    JOME77 Supporting Member

    Aug 18, 2002
    Make sure that your bridge/strings are grounded. There should be a wire run from your bridge to the control cavity of your bass (a few brands don't utilize the bridge/string GND i.e. EMG). Also make sure that all of the pots, switches and output jack are grounded (commom). Also verify that the control cavity is sheilded properly.
  3. Ok I checked the bridge ground and all the other solders to ground and they all lookded good.

    Some more info. The buzz/static is greatest when I strike an open string and let go of the bass, if I am touching one of the strings or any part of the bass that is metal the buzz/static goes away.
    If I palm mute the strings and let go carfully so as to not vibrate the strings the buzz/static is almost gone.

    I left the leads from the pickups the length that they came from the factory so they are a little long, should they be shortend as mutch as possible or is a little slack ok?

    The only shielding on the bass is some foil on the back of the pick guard. I know there should be more but I was not having this problem untill I replaced the pickups. Can the stronger pickups cause the electronics pickup more interferance?

    I dont think I did but I will check again, could wiring the capacitor backwards cause this?

    Any other Ideas?
    Thanks in advance.
  4. JOME77

    JOME77 Supporting Member

    Aug 18, 2002
    The capacitor isn't polorized so it you can't wire it backwards (assuming that you used the corect cap). Sometimes I've had to just disconnect the P/U wiring, cut off the P/U leads, re-strip and re-connect. I've seen the braided shield get so hot that it melted slightly through the insulation shorting/leaking to the hot (positive) P/U wire. These kind of problems can be a pain to trouble shoot.
    Also, if you have a VOM check continuity from the strings to all components (pots and output jack). It sure sounds like a grounding problem.