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Just "Maple" maple?

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by BassMan257, Mar 31, 2006.


  1. ok, so its not going to help that the only place ive looked is ebay... but...

    is it possible to get maple that isnt figured?


    reason being, i actually have a project...

    [​IMG]

    the top and bottom will be mahogany (its free for me) but i want a middle portion and the picguard to be maple... but, not figured in any wierd way...

    I have a maple Fender neck that i want to match it to.... but its not figured... and i just want things to look kinda plain... (well, just plain wood that is)

    where can i get some? will it be cheap? anywhere on the internet?

    thanks for your answers... i just need to clear this up...
     
  2. Just go down to your local timber/lumber yard and you should find plenty of 'plain' North American rock maple,

    'Figuring' (like flame/ripple and quilt) is a natural effect that happens to timber and can be found in pretty much all species of timber' but it doesn't occur in every tree (thats why it's so sort after and expensive)

    Most good hardwood suppliers will stock it and it won't cost as much.

    But look carefully at the board, If it has slightly off white marks/blotches in it avoid it as these will plane-up black.

    Here is some more info for you.

    www.thewoodbox.com/ data/wood/mapleinfo.htm

    (It's so nice to see people using plain 'unfigured' maple, it does the same job at a much lower cost)
     
  3. Figured maple for free +++

    lowsound
     
  4. Don't assume that your "maple" will be eastern rock maple, there is "soft" and "hard" maple (and as you can imagine, eastern rock maple is the hard variety).

    Since you're going bolt-on, you want the hard variety so your neck pocket is solid. But it would not be necessary with a neck-thru design, soft would be fine for a body.
     
  5. yeah... i was allready expecting "hard maple" to be nessisary...

    now the question is, what sizes should i make the laminates?

    I want it to be so the maple doesnt show when I route the edges off, but it does when i sand/file down the little thing where your hand goes: that big white part....

    whats the best size layers do you think? i want a farily big round on the edges.... so im not quite sure what to do...
     
  6. Find out what radius the router bit your going to use is and make the layers a few mm thicker than that (e.g 10mm radius roundover bit- make the layer 12/13mm thick)
     
  7. britrit

    britrit

    Jan 22, 2006
    London
    I love the look of that body, the pickguard would look awesome on that. I REALLY like that body.
     
  8. lol... want me to make you one?

    hehe...

    if this one comes out nice, you can send me some wood and ill hook you up....
     
  9. the closest thing i can find to a lumber yard:


    http://www.stcharleshardwoods.com/pages/contactUs.php

    they dont have any big peices of hard maple in... and probably wont till next week, but they said that they would be gone fast anyways...

    i didnt mention sizes, but he said they dont have much wide stuff...

    maybe he doesnt know what kind of wide im talking about...

    i dont know, maybe he does...

    i cant find any "lumber yards" around... and what do i do once i find one? just go there and be like "got any hard maple?"

    i just have no expericance or know how on this type of thing
     
  10. britrit

    britrit

    Jan 22, 2006
    London
    I might take you up on that one day. But onto the wood. Type in your zip code in this website, it will show the lumberyards closest to you, call some of them up and ask if they have any hard maple in your sizes. http://www.woodfinder.com/
     
  11. That "place where your hand goes" is the place where your forearm goes, it's the forearm contour.

    Decide on the roundover radius that you want, and place your maple laminate deeper than that. But if you want it to show in the forearm contour, you'll need to make it thick enough that you don't sand through it when you shape the contour.

    Got CAD?
    If not, get it...learn it...use it. You'll answer a lot of your own questions when you draw everything to scale.
     

  12. yeah... so I talked to the closest one (saint charles hardwood, i mentioned them allready)

    I basically said "Im looking for a piece of Hardmaple thats 6/4" thick, 24 inches long, and 14 inches wide" and they pretty much just laughed when i said i wanted a solid piece of hardmaple that was 14 or so inches wide...:bawl:

    i went back to see what they had... and every board was about 10 or so feet long

    did they not have 14" cuts because their boards were so long? it is possible to have a solid piece of hardmaple thats 14inches wide right?

    i mean, the hard maple tree in my backyard is at least 14" in diameter....

    and when you guys say lumber yards, do you mean... like yards that cut lumber? not like a hardwood store that sells cuts? like... actually a yard?
     
  13. Most places cut to 12" because that is an easy mesurment to work with for most wood working. Buy one that is double the thickness that you need and about 8 inches wide. Then get it cut down the middle so you have two boards that are 8 inches wide and place the peices side by side for the top. Looks nice and if you do it right you can barley see the seem.

    lowsound
     
  14. pilotjones

    pilotjones Supporting Member

    Nov 8, 2001
    US-NY-NYC
    By me the lumberyards carry maple, walnut and cherry as lumber, along with all the usual softwoods.

    Why do you want hard maple for a body? Even rickenbacker and pedulla generally use soft maple. It's lighter, and there's no need for that kind of structural stiffness in a body.

    The 14" tree in your back yard may yield some 8" boards, if you take into account having to avoid the pith at the center of the tree. At least that's my understanding from Ken Smith's explanation in a thread here a year of so ago. (A search on "back yard" may turn it up?)
     

  15. lol... ive got a maple Mighty mite neck...

    its made of hard maple... i want to match colors...
    and why not the structural stiffness?

    will soft maple match?

    and, the top will be mahogany... not maple...

    I really want to stick to a solid piece...


    also, i talked to a friend at church... he is actually a carpenter... and he gets his stuff from this saint charles hardwoods...

    but, he said he probably had a piece the size i need, or would be able to order it through his work...

    which has me confused...
     
  16. pilotjones

    pilotjones Supporting Member

    Nov 8, 2001
    US-NY-NYC
  17. VaantCustom

    VaantCustom

    Feb 5, 2006
    Canada
    Cool link!

    according to the specs soft maple is about 1/2 as hard as hard maple though. If it's going to be a pick-guard type thing, I'de choose hard. How are you planning to finish?
     

  18. allright, the way it works is, Its going to be a sandwich lamanate...

    mahogany
    on Maple
    on mahogany

    (mahogany tops and bottoms will be single piece... ive got it allready)
    the picguard i want to be maple but, i want a single piece... not a bookmatch... it would look really really wierd...

    then a mightymiteneck

    I was thinking gloss finish, cause I think it brings out the wood a bit more... BUT i have no experiance whatsoever in the field... and am not sure how im going to apply my finish yet...

    I dont want a satin, but like a semi gloss would be cool... not crazy shiny, and not like its naked....


    so, in honesty, the middle lamanate doesnt need to be a single piece, but, i was thinking, that if i got a thicker piece (not wider thicker) than i could cut the single piece picguard... which is what i really want..

    ive got wierd flamed/spalted maple tops that could converted into a picguard... but, i dont think they would match... AT ALL!

    so jah....
     
  19. Musiclogic

    Musiclogic Commercial User

    Aug 6, 2005
    Southwest Michigan
    Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O
    Actually, "Soft" Maple is plenty hard to keep a neck pocket stable, in fact, it has a higher specific gravity/density than Mahogany, and is quite nice for calming down the ringiness of hard maple. Just a note.
     
  20. but, how bad will hard maple and soft maple clash in color?
     

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