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Just to be safe ...

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by himluis1, Aug 18, 2017.

  1. himluis1


    Sep 28, 2012
    will it be ok to cut both of the wires going to the tweeter on my bass cab ? i just don't like the sound with it , and it doesn't have a on/off or attenuation knob ... any experience is welcome ash5.
  2. Looks like a Motorola/piezo tweeter. They have a ceramic element and don’t need a crossover as such. They are also high impedance. Some folks like them but I am of the dislike crowd. They are very cheap ~ $5 last time I bought any but that was a while ago.
    BadExample and himluis1 like this.
  3. Al Kraft

    Al Kraft Supporting Member

    May 2, 2016
    Northern Virginia
    I'm probably the last guy you should listen to on this, but the better solution for re-sale might be to leave that element and its wires intact and just run the wires from the input jack directly to the main speaker terminals - no crossover or anything else in the loop. The low frequency (main) speaker should naturally attenuate any of the higher frequencies it can't produce with no ill effects - no crossover needed.

    Definitely get one of the speaker/cab designer pro's on TB to give you a second opinion before you do this.
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2017
  4. Is there a way to disconnect the wires at the other end that is less permanent (more temporary)?
    Those usually have spade connectors on them that connect to a printed circuit board (PCB).
    I'd recommend disconnecting the green wire at that end. You only need to disconnect one of the wires.
    DavC, BadExample and himluis1 like this.
  5. agedhorse

    agedhorse Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 12, 2006
    Davis, CA (USA)
    Development Engineer-Mesa, Product Support-Genz Benz
    In this specific case (not a universal statement because some poorly designed crossovers with compression drivers can cause issues due to resonant energy storage), since the wires are soldered onto the terminals just cut the wires about 1/2" from the terminal and insulate the cut ends of the wires. Secure them so they don't rattle or cause mechanical noises.
  6. seamonkey


    Aug 6, 2004
    show a picture of what the other end of those wires are connected to. I expect there is at least a resistor for a crossover, but if it's anything more it could rob the high end from just cutting the wires.
    himluis1 likes this.
  7. himluis1


    Sep 28, 2012
    do u knoe
    will it be bad to cut both ???
    cause i kind off did lol ...
    im more concerned with my bass amp , but ill try in a few mins ...
  8. cutting both just makes it more difficult to put it back like it was, if you should ever choose to do so, maybe if/when you want to sell it

    So there weren't any slip-on connectors on the other end of the wires?
    himluis1 likes this.
  9. himluis1


    Sep 28, 2012
    not really , this is a pic another guy here took , he also own the cab ... tweeter.
  10. Wow, that is a very rudimentary high pass filter :smug:
    BadExample likes this.
  11. I had bought a brand new hartke 8x10 cabinet. Cutting the wires to the tweeter was the first thing I did. Only had it about two months before I was fed up with the twangy tinny sound and fret noise. Worked great for 10+ years. So no worries. Then I decided I was tired of such a huge box so broke it down to 4 2x10 boxes. Everything is awsome.
  12. agedhorse

    agedhorse Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 12, 2006
    Davis, CA (USA)
    Development Engineer-Mesa, Product Support-Genz Benz
    Read up on piezo-ceramic transducers and you will learn why.
    BadExample likes this.
  13. agedhorse

    agedhorse Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 12, 2006
    Davis, CA (USA)
    Development Engineer-Mesa, Product Support-Genz Benz
    Just cut both wires as I suggested earlier, you will be fine. The additional (to the effects of the piezoceramic crystal) high pass network is all in series so there is no danger of stored resonant energy.
  14. BadExample


    Jan 21, 2016
    I googled it but all I found was piezo's suck :laugh::roflmao::laugh:

    To cap the wires, either

    small heat shrink the ends with about a 1/2" extended past the end of cut, while it's still hot enough to hurt a little, squeeze the end past the wire with a pair of pliers that have teeth on the jaws.


    Fold the wire back sharply and heat shrink that with a larger (maybe 1/4" or 1/2" heat shrink), covering the cut end and the loop of folding it back.


    use a crimp on gizmo that works like a wire nut but crimps on. Least recommended because it takes the right size gizmo to accept one wire, a good crimping tool and experience.

    Any beat electrical tape 10:1 for longevity (not to mention a gummy mess).

  15. five7

    five7 Supporting Member

    Dec 5, 2009
    wire nuts will work also
  16. punchdrunk

    punchdrunk Supporting Member

    Jun 22, 2013
    Jacksonville, Fl
    Just do as agedhorse has instructed. He's the authority (and rightfully so) on the matter.
    The Deep End and Rip Van Dan like this.
  17. dbbltime


    Oct 5, 2014
    NRH, Texas
    Is it possible to apply heat with a soldering iron, and remove the wires?
  18. tubedude

    tubedude Supporting Member

    Jan 19, 2015
    Do what Aged Horse said. If you can't live with the loss of treble, and don't want to change cabinets, you could use a better tweeter, compression horn or ribbon. Do you havea local tech that can build a proper crossover and install a driver?
  19. ficelles

    ficelles SUSPENDED

    Feb 28, 2010
    Devon, England
    Nothing wrong with a passive RC filter..

    So who worked out the crossover frequency :)
  20. That's why I used "high pass filter", since it's not a crossover :smug:

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