"Kit" build shielding/wiring questions.

Discussion in 'Miscellaneous [BG]' started by WRM, Jan 3, 2016.

  1. WRM


    Aug 2, 2015
    I've tried to find one - is there a step-by-step instruction available anywhere?

    In particular, specifics on grounding/shielding a passive P body. Shield the control cavity/PG, but what else?

    1) Can I ground the bridge with a wire/screw soldered inside the bridge ground cavity to copper foil tape that extends over the body to make contact when the bridge is screwed tight? Is there a better/more accepted method?

    2) Passive P bass pickups (SD SPB3). Is it necessary to shield the windings and replace the two wire leads w/shielded 2-conductor as implied in this link, or can I simply bolt them in and run the two pup wires through the hole to the control cavity? Seems like a lot of work/risk to do this to a brand-new pup.

    Guitar Shielding | stewmac.com

    Thanks much,
  2. WRM and DiabolusInMusic like this.
  3. DiabolusInMusic

    DiabolusInMusic Functionless Art is Merely Tolerated Vandalism

    1) I'm not sure I understand the question. Your bridge should have a ground wire channel that runs from the bridge to the control cavity, run a ground from your bridge to your electronics. If your body is a vintage style with no screw hole then you can run a ground strip like vintage Fenders did, even modern Fender reissues have the wire route though.

    2) I never swap in shielded wire and all my basses are perfectly silent. I find most pickups require the covers to get shielded in order to get the bass fully silent. While some contend this has an effect on tone I have never noticed it and any effect it does have is not nearly as noticeable as any remaining noise, it's worth the trade off in my books.

    Basically everything I know on the subject is linked in the post above, thanks for the nod @S-Bigbottom , and again in my signature below. There is another good thread stickied in the pickups and electronics subforum that may be of use to you as well.

    Jazz Shielding Pictorial (Big Images Warning)

    If you still have more questions don't hesitate to ask, there are a lot of smart members here on the subject so somebody should be able to assist you pretty quickly if it isn't me.

    I hope that helps.

    EDIT: Do not buy any kind of shielding supplies from Stew-Mac. Their paint is low grade and high priced and their copper tape is just high priced. You can do better on ebay or Amazon for tape, ensure you purchase conductive adhesive/two-side conductive tape. I discuss paint versus tape in my thread, I use MG Chemicals Supershield. If you are looking to shop local you can get tape at stained glass supply stores and paint from electronics parts suppliers.
    WRM and S-Bigbottom like this.
  4. sissy kathy

    sissy kathy Back to Bass-ics Gold Supporting Member

    Apr 21, 2014
    Arbutus, MD
    1) There should be a hole drilled internally from the bridge rout to the cavity, on a kit it might be kinda ragged though and hard to see. I put a small piece of copper down from the rout to a screw hole for the bridge, and solder the wire to the foil. This gives a strong mechanical connection, though I don't see many do this here; it's probably overkill. If that internal hole isn't there, I'd either drill one or , yes as you suggested cut a strip about 1/4 inch wide and run it from a bridge mounting screw to the cavity for the electrics.

    2) Just shield the entire cavity and the back of the pick guard, have the shielding for the cavity cover a pick guard screw hole; that gives you a solid connection between the guard and the cavity. This shields the pickup as much as it can be shielded, five sides; front, back, both sides and bottom.
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2016
    WRM likes this.
  5. fhm555

    fhm555 So FOS my eyes are brown Supporting Member

    Feb 16, 2011
    My favorite way to get a quiet bass is humbuckers.
  6. WRM


    Aug 2, 2015
    That link is perfect - I should have searched "hum" instead of "shielding". ;)

    The way that you shielded to pup covers looks even better to me than the other link that shields the windings only - it gets sides and top. This is a Warmoth body. Pup route is connected to the control cavity by a drill hole, so I'll do the pup covers, pup cavity, NOT replace the leads w/shielded 2-conductor, and run another wire for the shielding/ground. The bridge ground cavity is forward of the bridge mounting holes and underneath the bridge, so I'll run the wire and use copper foil as the bridge conductor.


    Appreciate the help! :D
    DiabolusInMusic likes this.
  7. Primary

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