Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by grungtertl, May 28, 2005.
What does the Lakland Coil Tap Switch do on the MM and J configuration basses?
The coil switch allows you to run either the forward (neck) or rear (bridge) coils independently. The middle position runs them in tandem. The difference in tonal response is subtle but effective when used in conjunction with the J pickup and blend control.
It switches between single coil, parallel, and series to be a tad more exact.
And there is a huge difference is tone.
I have a Lakland 55-02 and have used the coil tap occasionally, but I find the best tone from a Lakland bass, particulary recording direct, is both pickups on, coil tap switch in the middle, with all EQ flat. The Lakland bass starts to sound strange in my opinion with a lot of EQ. Lakland 55-02 or 55-94 basses also sound great with the MM pickup soloed with no EQ.
I'm staring at the Lakland handout I received with my 55-94 and the the switch is actually designated as a "Coil Selector Switch: Bridge Pickup. Forward position - neck, middle position - both, rear position - bridge (there is actually an illustration).
I recall the G&L basses having the series / parallel switch which was mentioned. I remember the series setting imparting a small amount of hum.
It's the same thing - trust me.
You and I are saying the same thing. I just put the technical names to it.
AFA your comment about the G&L - That was probably a G&L issue. I've owned Music Mans and Laklands - none made any noise on any setting.
It's NOT the same thing, trust me.
Series and paralell are different methods of running a dual coil pickup, both of the coils are always on. Music Man sets the Stingray 5 and Sterling pickups to operate with the series/parallel/single coil switching.
Lakland's selector is a true coil selector switch. The pickup itself is a quad coil pickup, and is wired so that you can run the bridge pair, the neck pair, or all four coils at once. With the switch toward the bridge, only the bridge coils are on, and it gives the tone of a single coil pickup at the bridge; with the switch toward the neck, only the neck coils are on giving the tone of a single coil in the "sweet spot" (think 50's era P bass); with the switch in the middle position, both sets of coils are on in the series configuration, giving the "classic MusicMan Stingray" tone (or a very close approximation of it).
Series/parallel and coil selection are two totally different things, it is not a technical differenece or a semantic one, it's a genuine one.
Thanks for the clarification, Gard!
For the record: I bought my 55-94 from Gard / BassCentral a couple years back. Great folks! However, they did keep a photo of my bass in their "used instrument" classifieds for another year following the purchase. Dohh!
hmmmmm... I was told over at the Lakland Dude Pit that they were the same thing.
I guess that's one of the reasons why the Barts can't entirely pull off the StingRay tone.
What about the Laklands (Skyline or USA) that arrive from the factory with the Seymour Duncan pups? Are they ran like the traditional SR? Or like you were saying?
There's a tremendous tonal difference when switching between series and parallel configurations ala Musicman and G&L.
The coil selection in the Bart / MM produces a more subtle change. I'm not sure as to what the Basslines offer.
Hey man, I remember you! (Easy, you gotta odd name, like me! )
I live a bit closer to you now, but I can't sell ya a Lakie again, cuz I don't do that no more! I do have a 55-94 of my own, and won't ever let it go. For some things, it just can't be beat.
Don't know what to tell you about that photo thingy....they do that a lot for some reason. I never did have anything to do with the website itself, so I can't tell you why.
cg, I hope you don't think I was pickin' on ya, just wanted to make sure that the straight dope was out there. On the Duncan MM-pickups, I'm not really sure how they're wired, but they are a LOT more aggressive sounding, more "Stingray-ish" than the Barts are. I really like 'em for playing with a more "rock" tone, the Barts are a bit smoother, although they work well in any situation I've ever been in.
Yeah, my name is actually Riis Unterzuber. You'll have to type just a little bit slower 'cause I don't speaka or read da English so good.
Gard, hope things are going well @ Roscoe. If you're ever in VB, give me a call. I know all the good restaurants...can't afford to eat in any of them, though.
(I realise the thread is old, seemed better to bump it than start a new one)
So it sounds like there's a consensus that the switch does both coils in parallel, or the front or rear independently (but with dummy coils to cancel hum?); is it possible to rewire it so it's series, parallel, or front coil? I have a 55-02 coming to me that purportedly needs some rewiring, and I know enough about what I'm doing to follow their diagram, but if I'm redoing it, I'd rather redo it how I like it. Preferably with centre position being series, front being the the 'single' front coil, and rear being parallel. Thanks!
It doesn't use dummy coils, it uses a quad coil humbucker. You can wire it like you are saying, does your have Bart or Lakland pickups?
This is the diagram I'm working from, if that helps
Edit: I only just noticed, if anyone knows, what's the J5 section for on the preamp pcb?
Look at diagrams 4 & 5 on this page:
You'll need to wire the on/on/on switch like one of those, but I'm not sure how the Lakland wires compare to the Bart. I'd start by using red as hot and black as ground.
Lol in my even more naive days I used exactly that diagram to try and do a similar thing to a spector with EMG HZs. Then the elusively obvious idea that the wire colours are NOT an absolute reference dawned on me...
Thanks for the tip about the red and black, I'll start there. I'll see if Lakland is willing to offer any help, but if not I'll just guinea pig it myself, and if I bother/succeed, I'll post up the info. Thanks for your help
Ok, finally got all my bits and benched the Lakland.
Ended up going with an Audere Pro Z 4-band; probably overkill for someone who doesn't use pre eq much, but they're amazingly reasonably priced considering what's in them, I love having 2 mid bands (with killer frequency centres if what I've read can be believed), and the Z thing sounds like what I liked about the ACG without the price tag (not AS full featured, but still something)
Regarding the switch wiring, not going so well. Looking at the Lakland LH3 diagram, and that Bart diagram mmbongo linked, it looks like the wires share colours. Black and red seem to be hot, with green and white their respective commons (are 'common' and 'ground' interchangeable when talking about pickups?). I confirmed that with a multimetre and tapping on the pickup (assuming this is accurate http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/pickupwiring.htm) on the red and green wires, but couldn't make the black and white wires read anything. It's currently wired like the first of the last three DPTT diagrams on the Bart pdf (with the hot and ground wired directly to the output jack). With the switch pointing toward the neck or centre, it sounds either the same or REALLY close, and pointing toward the bridge the output drops way off and it gets really noisy, but still outputs. If anyone can tell, what have I done wrong?
Beyond this, does anyone know if it's worth wiring the Lakland MM pickup in series? I've heard some pickups that aren't really designed for series can sound either very similar to parallel, or even just worse, when put in series? The HZs in my Spector certainly sounded pretty meh in series, but they were HZs >.>
Beyond even that, does anyone have an opinion on whether just messing around with the Z settings in the Audere will get me enough of a 'series' sound to make it not worth bothering?
Love to hear from anyone about any of these points. Thanks!
Small update: slowly working backward testing things, and I can only make the red hot do anything. I've just been touching the wires to the lugs on a jack seeing what seems to do what, and I can only get a sound with red -> tip, green -> sleeve, all other combinations make no sound. Looking at the back of the pickup, everything seems securely in place, and nothing uninsulated is touching anything else. I'm not used to seeing pcb on the back of a pickup, so I might be missing something obvious, and the tone I was getting with the switch and also just touching the wires to the jack didn't sound like a bridge position single coil tone, to me, so I'm not entirely sure what's going on. Any theories appreciated.
I think I'm just going to skip the switch, wire it in 'parallel' (if that is even what it is) and go from there.