Dismiss Notice

Psst... Ready to join TalkBass and start posting, make new friends, sell your gear, and more?  Register your free account in 30 seconds.

Link needed... modifying X15 Ultrafoot

Discussion in 'Effects [BG]' started by Diggler, Sep 11, 2005.


  1. Diggler

    Diggler

    Mar 3, 2005
    Western PA
    A while back, I saw a web page that described how to modify the power and MIDI in/outs for the Ultrafoot. I think it described how the person modified their Ultrafoot so that the power outputs and MIDI in/outs were on the left hand side of the board, instead of on the front panel and ran both the in/out midi through a single cable instead of using two. I'm thinking about doing this so I can make a snake to run back to my rack and keep it out of the way of my mic stand.

    Anyone know the page I'm talking about?
     
  2. Diggler

    Diggler

    Mar 3, 2005
    Western PA
    I found it!

    If you have one of the Ultrafoots, you can make it work with only one MIDI cable running to it. I'll be doing this mod ASAP. Sure beats running three cables to the controller.

    X-15 7-pin MIDI modification
     
  3. thats pretty cool, i am not a fan of the three cable thing, so i might give this mod a go too!
     
  4. Diggler

    Diggler

    Mar 3, 2005
    Western PA
    I'm cheap, so I'm looking for parts that are cheaper than what is listed in the article. I'll post here the best prices I find.

    ETA:

    7 Pin DIN Female Chassis Connectors, $1.99 - I am getting two, so that I can put it on a panel on the front of my amp rather than have to go behind it. $9.98 shipped for two.
     
  5. isn't it funny how the shipping cost more than the actual product?
     
  6. Diggler

    Diggler

    Mar 3, 2005
    Western PA
    Yeah, but in the link referenced in the article, ONE of the jacks cost like $8+.

    I just look at the bottom line.

    :D
     
  7. Jazz Ad

    Jazz Ad Mi la ré sol Gold Supporting Member Supporting Member

    Just curious, why does a pedalboard need a MIDI in ?
     
  8. in case you change one of the presets on the nightbass, rather than on the pedal. that is one pet peeve i have with the nightbass, and wish that the midi cable would send info in and out in one cable...that was one thing i thought was cool about the POD, but in the end, a nightbass is still cooler than any POD!
     
  9. so what was the final cost and how long did it take you?
    details details!
     
  10. Diggler

    Diggler

    Mar 3, 2005
    Western PA
    OK, here was my cost:

    Two chassis mount 7 pin DIN females: $11.58 shipped from cablesandconnectors.com. I got two chassis mounts, one for the X15, and one for my rack system. I have a one space blank panel and I'm using a chassis DIN there so I can plug the board into the front of my amp, so I don't have to have all those wires going to the back. Plus it will give me an extra few feet of cable.

    The 7-pin MIDI cable from midi-classics.com was $17.95 shipped.

    The 5-conductor MIDI cable, I had lying around so I didn't have to buy it. You WILL want to make sure that it has five wires in it. You only use three wires for each of the ends for the Nightbass-7pin midi cable adapter (cut off the extra two) but you need all five from the X15 chassis mount to the circuit board.

    Also, I scrounged up about a foot and a half of small speaker wire that I used to extend the power from pins 6 and 7 on the x15 chassis DIN to the circuit board. This was leftover from a 25' speaker wire that was on closeout at Radio Shack for $1.50 or so.

    Of course I used the original ART adapter... I don't know if it matters but I made sure that the wires were kept consistant to the way they were hooked up with the original plug... the striped wire to the appropriate connection on the circuit board.

    Total outlay: about $30.00 if you can scrounge a 3-5' MIDI cable and some spare leads for the power. It will be worth every penny to not have to worry about the "OK, IN goes to OUT, and OUT to IN... which cable was the OUT again?..." every time I set up.

    It took me about 6 hours but there was a lot of diagramming and second-guessing to make sure I did it right the first time. I ended up crossing the wires in the adapter so it didn't work right away... a multi-meter is almost a necessity to getting it done quickly.