Hello, I was wondering, on a recent gig my sound went off out of the blue after a few minutes of playing. The chain was: Ernie Ball MM Stingray HH > pedalboard (with some potent pedals such as darkglass b7k, alpha omega, delay, rev) > Orange Terror Bass 1000w and a Ampeg 4x10 cab. The bass player from the band before us used the same head for about 45 minutes. Then when I started the sound went off after a few minutes, tried again and went off in the exact same part of the song. The pedalboard was getting signal, and the head was on, it was the cab not sounding. After turning the head off and on again it worked but the same happened, so decided to bypass the pedalboard and finally got to make it work an finish a set of 60 mins. So I'm wondering if the power thrown from the pedalboard was too much to handle? Or if it has to do with the cab or just the head failing? Don't know where to start checking... any tips or advice would be highly appreciated. Thanks!
Have you tested your setup at home or reheasal since the problem started? I'd also test one pedal at a time with your rig. Maybe one of them is having problems. Also maybe the power supply, a cable or dying battery.
Hopefully it was "Muskrat Love" or "Mustang Sally" or some other equally musician-hated cover song. Now you have a good excuse not to play it! "Nope, can't do it. My equipment is self-aware, & refuses to play that song no matter how many female booties shake to it. Sorry."
I doubt the signal level from your pedal board had anything to do with it. Too hot of a signal would just cause the the preamp to fuzz out. There are lots of cables involved when you are using pedals. I would start by checking all of the cables. If you were pushing the amp really hard it might have been going into protect mode. The TB1000 is generally considered a pretty powerful amp that I believe should be able to thrash a single Ampeg 410, so I would be surprised if this were the problem. Did the amp work right away when you bypassed the pedal board? If it took a bit of time, this could indicate the amp overheated and was in protect mode until it cooled down enough to operate again.
^ This. Whenever I have a cutout the first thing I do is wiggle the patch cables between my pedals. Usually one of them's been knocked loose during transit or needs to be replaced or something. Easier to check and fix than a bad head or a broken wire inside the bass, too, so it's the obvious place to start.
That is exactly what happened, it worked after bypassing the pedals and turning it off for a few minutes. I had to finish playing straight from it, no issues.
So to clarify. You bypassed the pedals and the amp was still dead? You left the amp off for a few minutes and the amp started working again? If this is the case, I would suspect the amp went into some sort of protection mode. Make sure and check the speaker cable. I recently had some troubles that I thought was a malfunctioning amp and it turns out the wires in the speaker cable had come loose and were barely making contact.
Here's a post that could be very relevant: Orange Terror Bass - Problem or Normal? Quick synopsis...these amps shut down if the line voltage drops below 110V. The OP of the thread and another person were experiencing shutdowns with amps bought from an Ebay seller.
Class D amps have to have a protective circuit to shut them down if they see low voltage. My TH did it one night in a barn with terrible wiring.
I do live sound and mix 8 bands a night on weekends. I see a lot of players with pedalboards having problems like this, and it is 9 out of 10 a bad audio/power cable etc. on their pedalboard.
Agreed. Duplicate your set-up at home, same tune, same volume and see if you can reproduce the fault. If it does re-appear, stop / touch nothing. There's a systematic approach which will detect the culprit. Sidenote: I've seen too many people futz around with everything at once. By sheer dumb-luck, the sound will re-appear but the user still has no clue as to where the fault resides. Riis
Sounds to me like you need to go over your board with a . Test all the patches, all the pedals individually. Then test all your cable. If the rig worked without the pedal boar in the chain just fine, I can almost guarantee it's something on the board. But without being in front of it, it's hard to tell.
I like a lot using fx and tweakig knobs but I remember haow a band who played after us started late because the bass player had a problem with a pedal in his (huge) pedalboard and he spent 15 minutes to fix it...
Active bass into an amp that has an active/passive switch or punch button. Maybe the amp was set to the passive mode and the bass overloaded the signal to the amp and the protection feature on the amp kicked in and shut the amp down. I know....sounds too simple, but I experienced this a couple times on an SVT Classic several years ago before I figured out the cause. Never a problem since. I don't know the features on the Orange, but it might be worth a look. Hope this helps. Koog
This was my first thought as well. I've had class D heads shut off if the voltage was not sufficient. I bet it won't do it at home.
Overdriving the preamp will not cause this symptom on either an TB1000 or SVT. Some people do this intentionally and the amps are designed to handle it. The active/passive switch or inputs simply insert or remove a few resistors from the input circuitry.