I have been searching, but not finding what I need. I know that you shouldn't use long scale (34") strings on short scale (30") basses, but I'm wondering if it is possible to use 34" scale strings on a 32" scale instrument. The choice of medium gauge strings is even less than those for short scale. And please don't post the link to bass strings online. I've seen it in nearly every thread I've researched. I know the difference in scale lengths, and understand the theory behind the different strings offered for the different scale. I'm just looking for an answer from practical experience of the players here regarding whether the 2" difference between a 34 and a 32 inch scale length strings is enough to preclude their use. Specifically, the taper on the end of the string that wraps around the tuner, and whether using a 34" long scale string on a 32" medium scale bass will result in cutting off the string short of that taper.
Well, I am going to post it, because it depends on the bass and the geometry of the tailpiece/anchor of the strings. Measure from the point the ball end seats in its anchor to the tuner side of the nut, and then to the tuner post, according to this article: http://www.bassstringsonline.com/Fi...ng-length-for-your-electric-bass_ep_46-1.html Then consult this chart to see what strings to get for it, choosing a string with a speaking length that is between the two measurements: http://www.bassstringsonline.com/Bass-String-Lengths-by-Manufacturer_ep_47-1.html As these articles and references indicate, the problem is first and foremost the E string speaking length binding around the tuner post. With most strings designed for a 34 inch scale, you will have to cut the leader short because the tuner post will have to accommodate speaking length. Worse, due to the diameter of the speaking portion of the E string, you can't get the proper number of wraps around the E string tuner post, and so the string has to be cut too short. The best case is you have tuning instability, and worse case it may break. A and D strings are usually far enough up on the headstock that you have leader whatever string you choose, and the G string just doesn't matter, whether in-line or 2+2. You wanted practical: in my almost 40 years of playing bass it doesn't get any more practical than this for figuring out what strings to put on a bass, whatever the scale length.
Thank you. Appreciated. I had already read that, and was looking for practical experiences, hoping the difference between the two was not so great. But the article is dead right. All it took was for me to walk over and look at the wraps around the E string tuner of my P bass. No way will long scale work on a 32", unless you cut the wrong portion of the string. Thanks again.
You can always TRY to use longer strings on a shorter scale instrument. If the bass in question has a floating bridge (think Hofner-style violin bass) then it usually takes strings one scale size longer. A 30" violin bass takes 32" strings. There are two issues in my experience: 1) Since you will have to cut the strings short to install them, can you get them to bend and insert into the tuner posts? Your shortened strings will be larger in diameter than some tuners are designed for. 2) When you start wrapping the strings around the tuner post, will the strings flex or break? You will be winding a part of the strings that is not designed to be wound around a tuning post. I have tried this and broken a string just because it was not flexible enough in that area of the string. I know of no other real issues. It may not be "correct", but it will often work.
Best to use the type of strings it was made for, but I have wound long scale strings onto short and medium scale basses many times without incident. Got a set of long scale strings on my Jay Turser violin bass as we speak. As long as they don't use guitar tuners like Hofner and Danelectro, and the post isn't too thin, it's usually not a problem.
Just to follow up, one of the reasons I prefer a 2+3 tuner arrangement on a 5-string bass is because the B string is usually farther up the headstock instead of being crowded against the nut, which gives a wider "window" of compatable strings when the distances to the nut and tuner are measured according to the article. And I just pulled the trigger on a medium-scale acoustic bass. The first thing I did: measure according to Jason's tech articles to determine that the bass I purchased also needed "medium" scale strings, with a 34 inch ball-to-silk being optimum. I'm probably going to go with Rotosound Tru-Bass tapes in medium, since I've gone to tapes for everything. Jimmy - you are right, as far as it goes, but with more and more companies making medium length strings in all models (D'Addario, Rotosound, La Bella, some GHS, and DR's "short" are actually medium) why risk it?
I risked it because D'addario never made an extra light set of short scale or medium scale Chromes. But LaBella does so I switched over to them for my short scale flat needs.
Long scale strings don't work on my EB 3 copy & medium wouldn't wither--at least the E string--I like the detail iiipopes goes into--it will vary somewhat between basses--but figure it out and use that info. I love my EB 3 copy and the short scale--but due to the problems in finding short scale bass strings around here I probably will stick with long scales from here on--but then again--who knows--if the right opportunity comes along. My fretless is long scale.
The place to get bass strings is from Jason @ bassstringsonline.com . All prices include postage, and he has a dedicated short scale link.
This is one of those "It Depends" situations. Yes, it's always best to use the right length/scale strings. If what you want really isn't available anywhere ( it might be heresy, but there are alternatives to Bass Strings Online), then yes, you'll probably be able to get away with using long scale strings. However, depending on your bass, and the brand of string, you might have to cut most of the leader off; maybe all of it-it depends. I've been using long scale strings on a short scale Gretsch Broadkaster for a long time-why isn't important here. With some brands I've had to cut all the leader off; some not. It is possible to get a leaderless E string around a tuner peg, but it takes lots of care, and a lot of patience. Actually, the Hybrid Slinkys that it's wearing now strung up pretty much like a normal long scale bass; on a Broadkaster, it's a looong way from the tailpiece to the top tuners. Bottom line? Yes, it's possible to use them if you really, really have to, but no, it's generally not a good idea.
I was able to do it--but the slot on my tuner was too narrow for the string that way--I sued vise grips to flatten the string so it would fit in the slot--and it never sounded right. I certainly agree with your bottom line--in my case it was not a good idea at all.
I have never worried about it. Right now, I have XL170's on the Urge I. Because it strings through the body, the largest wrap of the E string ends exactly at the point where the string starts to wrap around the post. I also have XL170's on my Kubicki. There is no real issue there, but the 36" E string means that the largest wrap ends before the string crosses the saddle. Is that affects the tone of the string, it must be in a positive way; it sounds great! I have used several different brands of strings on medium scale basses, and the only issue I ever remember is with the E string. If the largest wrap is too long, the string might not fit in the hole in the tuning post. I don't recall any specific troubles with the wraps going around the post. The only string I have ever had any significant trouble with is Smith, and I'm not sure I have tried them on a medium scale bass. I think these are great strings, but I have broken multiple strings trying to install them on 3/8" posts. IME, they are fairly brittle and I would not use long scale Smith strings on anything shorter than 34" scale or anything without a 1/2" post.
Here is an example that goes the other direction: The tailpiece on a 30-inch scale Harmony H22 bass is right at the butt of the body. This makes the distance between the anchor and the bridge, and by extension, the nut, so long that the bass uses conventional long scale strings.
Since I only put one set of strings on any bass I buy - and then never change - I figure it's worth getting a proper fit the first (and only) time.
I bought rotosounds not remembering that my Fernandes is a medium scale length and broke the E. To their credit, Rotosound via OMG Music (their US distributor) sent me the correct set. Unfortunately, the wound length of the E was still too long so I traded them for a set of Fender .100 stainless long-scale strings from my local indie shop and they seem to work. I'd like to put something heavier on it so I'll check out BSO and DR's site. Raz
Just an update: I took delivery of a medium-scale acoustic bass today. Great bass. Everything set up well. Of course, it came with long scale acoustic strings on it. The E string overlapped. I took it loose from the tuning machine to sort everything out, and as I was tuning it back up to pitch, of course it broke. So I cobbled together another E string to get buy until my set of medium scale strings gets here.