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Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Stickk, Mar 29, 2009.
Do you need these for a back-cavity route rather than regular pots?
no, regular shafts should work, just as long as the wood isnt too thick at the cavity where the holes are. ive actually neebr heard of long shaft pots before
It is possible to make the wood too thin where the pots screw in - damage to that area is a not-uncommon result if the bass gets bashed on the knobs. I know one guy who made the wood there so thin that it cracked when he pushed the knobs onto the pot shafts.
Go long-shaft wherever you can.
You mean long sleeve?
The only long shaft pots I've seen have been those .20€ cheapos and the most expensive aluminium shaft ones.
AFAIK/IME long sleeve pots are usually used with carved tops (LP) without recesses (PRS), and when the top wood is more brittle than usually.
Also using long sleeve pots make it easier to adjust the height of the knob to be exactly as You or the customer wants.
Long slleve pots are harder to find IME, but are well worth the hassle.
Maplins sell pots with very long shafts, 3inch or more, but the shafts are black plastic. Easy to cut down.
Ive got a pair of those pots from Maplins. If you use those, you need to route your cavity so that the top is about about 3mm thick. This should probably be ok, as I think acoustic guitars with spruce tops are normally around this thick, but it is something to bear in mind.
I did consider keeping the top 6mm thick, then cutting a large 18mm hole in the top and screwing a piece of 3mm acrylic underneath, just to hold the pot collars. That way, you can unscrew the acrylic and take out the whole electronics.
Does anyone else do this?
On the last bass I made, I routed the control cavity from the top and fashioned a control plate made of wenge that attaches to the top of the body with rare earth magnets. The pots are screwed to the control plate, and the electronics pop off when you pull the plate off. Much like a Jazz bass control plate.
The magnets are epoxied to the underside of the cover, and they fit into recesses in the body that each contain a small phillips-head screw - adjust the height of the screws so the cover fits snug to the top while making contact with all of the magnets. Works great.
The cover is about 5 mm thick.
I just finished my first bass, didn't have enough confidence in my cheapo router to go deep enough in the control cavity to use regular pots, so went with CTS 250K 3/4" threaded bushing pots.