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Looking for Bridge for Spector 4-string

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by Jazz Cat, Feb 7, 2011.

  1. Jazz Cat

    Jazz Cat

    Mar 31, 2009
    Chesapeake, VA
    Hello All,

    I've been working with one of my gigging basses (because the nice ones don't go out on the road all the time), a Spector 4-string, EMG HZ's, EMG preamp, gold (ick) hardware, etc.

    I've put together a list of all the bridges I can come up with and it seems that all are too much width (measured from tail to neck) or not enough length to fit the cutout in the Bubinga top.

    That being said, I'd prefer not to permanently modify this bass since it's the workhorse I may sell at a later date, but don't want it to look homeless. So, I'm considering creating a adapter plate to cover the gaps of the cutout and/or riser to mount to.

    My goal is to either find a bridge that will fit in the cutout or will cover the cutout, but still allow for mounting locations that would still be correct intonation. I'm looking for silver, chrome, aged copper, nickel, etc. No gold and no black, but will consider combinations incorporating black saddles.

    Current dimensions:

    Cutout up to: Length 90.4mm (3.56") Width 45.8mm (1.8"), Spacing is currently 19mm (.75") sting to string or outside spacing approx 57mm (2.25"), but will consider other spacing.

    Here's a list of current manufacturers I've looked at for 4-string version.

    Leo Quan
    Ken Smith
    Spector (no silver or chrome available for direct replacement)

    I've also looked at the following without manufacturer information (or offshore copies):

    I will look at all options including single bridges.

    Please let me know if I missed any on my list and if anyone knows of a bridge that will fit. I am evaluating all options at present. Thank you all for your time!
  2. Jazz Cat

    Jazz Cat

    Mar 31, 2009
    Chesapeake, VA
    Decided on a Kahler 7440 in black nickel. May not need any mods, but would be easy to come up with a different baseplate if needed. Currently on sale for the best price I've seen in a while.



    I was hoping for some more response and help for this post. In any case, if you want to know more about this bridge I'll be happy to share, just send me a PM.
  3. walterw

    walterw Supportive Fender Gold Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 20, 2009
    that's gonna be a big messy project trying to rig this thing up in the recessed cavity of the stock spector bridge. it's not even square, it 's angled!

    why not just get the right bridge but in a different color?

    (edit: i see your statement that they're not available in chrome; how about getting the original stripped and re-plated? find someplace that deals in motorcycle parts, they'll know who to call.)

    (edit again: you're in my home turf! look up "royal silver" [norfolk?], they apparently plate stuff.)
  4. connected2aj


    Jun 5, 2008
    Passaic County, NJ
    Endorsing Artist: Spector, Godlyke, Hartke, & Hipshot
    I just replace the bridge on one of my NS-2's with a Spector bridge. They have strange dimensions. I originally wanted to put in something different, but it just ended up being easier. I talked to Hipshot, and they could have made me one, but it was going to be expensive. I couldn't find any other bridges that had the same dimensions.
    I'm guessing you have a Rebop or a Euro. I think they both have similar bridges to the US basses, so it might be tough. You could contact Spector to see if they have a chrome bridge too.
  5. LilloEsquilo

    LilloEsquilo Banned

    Nov 8, 2009
    Like they said it's gonna be a tough job, what you are trying to do, there is no drop in replacement that I know of for Spector bridges. Not sure if they do that on purpose, but anyway, I can kind of see why you'd want to replace it. On my Rebops (and Legends too for that matter) the bridge is brass I believe. Brass is a relatively soft metal not like steel, and what I found was my roundwound strings were digging grooves in the part where they touch the bridge over time. Since that part is pretty small and thin, I was thinking that it won't be a lot longer and it might wear to the point of being a problem. And since Spector is the only drop in choice and their bridges are not cheap (though they are available just call and ask for PJ Rubal and I'm sure he'll set you up, he's a great guy) I'm potentially looking at shelling out some $$$ for this in the future.

    The bridge in my view was the weakest part of those basses. I'm a fan of the pre-amp, though you'll probably find a few others that would disagree with that view. Anyway, I'm sure you can do what you are looking to do, HOWEVER, it won't be easy. AND please keep in mind, that if you insert some kind of plate to cover up the existing opening, you will most likely raise the action and need to have a bridge that can compensate for it. So you will just have to use trial and error until you get this.

    That's the best I can tell you based on having Rebops and Legends.
  6. Jazz Cat

    Jazz Cat

    Mar 31, 2009
    Chesapeake, VA
    I received the bridge and fashioned a cut section to fill the recess out of a very large piece of 90/10 copper nickel pipe. I then heated and flattened on an anvil. It turned out very well, but the lines seem to be a little askew courtesy of the two voids on opposite corners of the recess.

    It works great and transmits tone well to the body. However, I am going to go over to a buddy's shop who has specialty woods etc. I'll be pickup up a piece of bubinga to match the top. Then I will be filling the recess with the same wood. Then it just looks like a riser of sorts. Should be fairly easy and straight forward as long as I can hide the grounding wire.

    The Kahler bridge is of very high quality. I would recommend to anyone that has the application for one. Everything locks into place nicely, fully adjustable and at $45 on sale, you can't go wrong.

    On Spector electronics, while the Tone Pump is OK, I personally prefer the EMG pre. However, for anyone who has or coverts to the EMG pre, I recommend changing over to 18V. With just 9V, it seems colored in a few mid frequencies. If they are the right frequencies for you, all the better. Otherwise, the 18V smooths out and has a much truer sound. Note that the original EMG preamp circuits found on many models will handle up to 27V, but always check with EMG first. Rick Hunt is the only EMG tech. Give him a call or send him an email and he'll be happy to help you.

    After I install the new bubinga "riser", I'll post pictures.
  7. Jazz Cat

    Jazz Cat

    Mar 31, 2009
    Chesapeake, VA
    Here's a quick update: After playing with this bridge for nearly a year as a primary gigging bass, here are my thoughts:
    • Quality construction and holds up well.
    • Does not move around and has excellent transmission to the body of the bass.
    • Easy adjustments to accommodate different string guages, etc.
    • No string breakage at the fulcrum and no wear evident. Note that I typically use larger gauge strings: 103 or 105, 85, 65, 50 or 45 sometimes.

    I've run into no issues with this bridge and it has been great to allow for custom string spacing. As we all know, most of the time it doesn't matter, but sometimes, it does! If you have any questions about the bridge, please let me know. In the meantime, I'll try to get a good picture posted.
  8. Rickett Customs

    Rickett Customs

    Jul 30, 2007
    Southern Maryland
    Luthier: Rickett Customs...........www.rickettcustomguitars.com
    I want some pics man........... ;)
  9. Jazz Cat

    Jazz Cat

    Mar 31, 2009
    Chesapeake, VA
    You got it. I'm on travel all week, but will get some good pictures when I can.
  10. Jazz Cat

    Jazz Cat

    Mar 31, 2009
    Chesapeake, VA
    Here's an old picture:
  11. walterw

    walterw Supportive Fender Gold Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 20, 2009
    that low E looks either really high or really far in from the edge.
  12. Jazz Cat

    Jazz Cat

    Mar 31, 2009
    Chesapeake, VA
    Agreed. This was during setup and the original set of strings were tapered at the saddles. That's why. Trust me, I know how to setup a bass and have been setting them up for over 20 years now. LOL, good catch though. Since this picture, I've moved the entire bridge and made a lot of adjustments related to string spacing, height, etc.

    The way that this bridge adjusts is by, without tools, turning the circular saddle just like an over-sized set screw.