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Minwax Wax Paste?

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Wolak, Mar 26, 2005.

  1. Is this stuff any good? I was told to use Watco Satin Wax over danish oil, but it's hard to find without ordering. The price of shipping is the same as the cost of the product. Lowe's carries the minwax paste. Any opinions, tips or suggestions?
  2. Tdog


    May 18, 2004
    I've used MinWax Paste Wax for years on my sculpture and furniture over Watco and other Danish oils. It is a great hard wax......easy application and easy buff out. However, it is not a durable finish........ most waxes tend not to be. I recommend it to all my customers who purchase my work....especially if the item gets handled a lot. It puts the shine back on and cleans the surface a bit also.

    You can spend a lot more on "high-end" waxes and not get much better product.

    The few times that I used the Watco Satin Wax, I was not impressed.

    Here is a photo of some Jarrah Burl candle placements that I made a few years ago. They were given a "bath" of Watco and then buffed out with the MinWax.
  3. Thanks Tdog. Nice work. Any problems with the paste getting into the pores or corners and leaving white specs or lines? I'm pretty sure my bass' pores are filled, but you never know.
  4. The Minwax is what I use over my TruOil finishes after I've given them a buffing with polishing compound. It's the polishing compound that will leave the white residue not the paste wax. Besides, a little warming with a hair dryer and the wax that's built up will soften so you can wipe it away. That's even a way to get a better build - I use a hair dryer to heat my surface slightly, then lay on a coat of wax. Let it dry and repeat. The heat helps build up thicker coats. Then buff out. The results are amazing.
  5. Tdog


    May 18, 2004
    Yeah, the wax can definately build in the inclusions and cracks, (the wax that was left behind in the Jarrah burl was a nightmare to clean out!) but the pores usually clean out with a good buffing. Go lightly and you should avoid most of the build up. I use the same small waxing rag which is always in the can....after a while the rag becomes so impregnated with wax, you just give it a quick rub and no more wax than necessary is applied to the surface.

    BTW....What kind of wood is your bass made of?......If you cant see the wax in the pores, I wouldn't worry.....Take care.
  6. Doner Designs

    Doner Designs Steve Doner Gold Supporting Member

    Jun 2, 2012
    Metro Chicago Area
    Doner Designs is an alias for Steve Doner
    I have a tung oiled Warmoth which I waxed with the plain minwax paste finishing wax. Great way to finish it off, but the mahogany does have some white in the pores that shows if the light is just right. Looks ok but I kinda wish I had used the dark. I may try the hairdryer trick and go back over it with the dark wax.

    IMG_8365.JPG IMG_8364.JPG