Minwax Wipe On Poly - Does it tint?

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by andreiscv, Feb 26, 2014.

  1. I'm thinking about putting together another bass. My first one I finished both the body and neck with tru-oil. It was very time consuming and difficult to handle (at least the body). This time around I'm thinking of having the body (swamp ash) finished professionaly in clear and doing the neck myself.

    Im thinking of using minwax wipe on poly for the neck. Should I use the water or oil based version?

    Also, does wipe on poly impart a slight tint like tru-oil does?
  2. GMC


    Jan 1, 2006
    Every finish changes the wood's tint one way or another
  3. tjclem

    tjclem Supporting Member Commercial User

    Jun 6, 2004
    Central Florida
    Owner and builder Clementbass
    ^ what he said
  4. GMC


    Jan 1, 2006
    Rustin's finishing oil is probably the least colour / tint effecting finish. But it's an oil finish and not a lacquer.
  5. I realize every finish will tint the wood in some way. What I'm trying to figure out is if wipe on poly leans more toward the clear finish that comes on most production maple necks or if it's closer to the tru-oil which has more amber in it.
  6. Hopkins

    Hopkins Supporting Member Commercial User

    Nov 17, 2010
    Houston Tx
    Owner/Builder @Hopkins Guitars
    I have never used Minwax wipe on poly, but anything I have used similar in application has definitely had an amber tint.
  7. elgecko


    Apr 30, 2007
    Anasleim, CA
    Minwax Wipe On over whatever Modulus used to originally spray the neck. You can see that the Minwax has a bit of a yellow tinge.

  8. lbridenstine


    Jun 25, 2012
    The ones that say clear on the label are clear. I used the oil based one and it looked really nice.
  9. Lonnybass

    Lonnybass Supporting Member

    Jul 19, 2000
    Minneapolis by way of Chicago
    Endorsing Artist: Pedulla Basses
    Oil-based. Water-based products on instruments kind of scares me.

    The Minwax definitely has an ambering effect. However I still like using Tru-Oil for necks - the consistency seems less runny...a plus on a curved surface like the back of a neck.

  10. barebones

    barebones Supporting Member

    Jan 3, 2005
    Denver, CO
    Here's a maple-topped table I just made for my daughter. This particular piece of maple had a lot of dark streaks, but the lightest portions you see here were very white prior to finishing with Minwax Wipe-On Poly. No stain beforehand. You can see it did make the lighter portions more yellowish blonde. Wish I had some before pics for you to compare...

    Results can vary, of course, from piece to piece. When in doubt, try your finish of choice on a piece of scrap first.

    Attached Files:

  11. hdracer


    Feb 15, 2009
    Elk River, MN.
    I'm with Lonny on this.
    I used Minwax wipe on poly on one neck once, just once...... :scowl:

    Stick with Tru oil
  12. Beej


    Feb 10, 2007
    Victoria, BC
    The minwax doesn't really impart a tint like tru oil, it's not as warm looking. Kinda yellowish as posted in the pic above. The more you apply, the more it gets like that. Not bad, just present...
  13. Lonnybass

    Lonnybass Supporting Member

    Jul 19, 2000
    Minneapolis by way of Chicago
    Endorsing Artist: Pedulla Basses
    I just re-read your original post about how you used Tru oil in the past and it took forever. Something I have noticed a lot is that guys often talk about putting 10, 20, 30 coats of Tru Oil on their instruments.

    And I'm not exactly sure why! Three to five coats should be perfectly adequate on well prepped, closed-cell boards in building a thin solid film finish. A little wax and steel wool after a week of curing time should feel amazing.

  14. Well the neck was easy to do with tru-oil. It was the body that was difficult. It's just that I don't want an overly amberish tint on the neck against a light clear coated ash body.

    Also this time I want a maple fretboard. Is tru-oil good for that?
  15. lbridenstine


    Jun 25, 2012
    Here's my comparison.

    Dry (I had dyed it amber and sanded it back, so there's a little color left on there):


    A couple coats of Tru-oil:


    For the record, everything else I've tried tru-oil on has looked MUCH better than that, it just didn't go good with that wood. To be fair, part of the color is probably left over from the amber dye, but still you can see where it started before the TO.

    And then I messed up the finish later and started over and switched to Minwax wipe on poly (clear, oil-based)



    A couple coats of wipe on poly:


    I don't think it really did too much to the maple. I'd show you after more coats, but I mixed dye in after that, so it wouldn't help.
  16. Hmmm after researching I kind of want to just finish the body again myself. How does several coats of Birchwood casey sealer/filler + Tru-oil over ash sound?

    This time I just need to come up with a rig to hold the body in place as I work.