Molded Case Lining Removal

Discussion in 'Accessories [BG]' started by Relsom, Jul 11, 2020.


  1. Relsom

    Relsom Supporting Member

    Nov 23, 2013
    The Old Dominion
    I have one of those Fender chainsaw style cases that needs attention. A couple of the feet (called Bell Studs, I'm told) are busted out and one side of the handle bracket is broken as well. I have the parts to replace everything.

    The question is how to remove the styrofoam liners without destroying them. I'm able to get in behind the panel sides with a trim lever, but they appear to be firmly adhered to the plastic on the large flat areas.

    I'd really like to salvage this case since it belongs with my 2000 American Deluxe Jazz. A standard Jazz will not fit this case and the bass will not fit a similarly styled case for the non-Deluxe model. Of course I can use a nice gig bag, but that's not the point.... I want to try and save this case.
    Ideas?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. fhm555

    fhm555 So FOS my eyes are brown Supporting Member

    Feb 16, 2011
    When my J Plus case cover straps came out I pried the case away from the liner far enough to get in some expanding glue, stuck the straps back in place and pulled the wedge holding it apart. I've also used the same method to replace a handle pivot, just wedge the case away from the liner far enough to get an anvil in to beat the rivets against, then pull the wedge. I've got a bent foot on the same case but have not found a place to get a replacement so I've yet to tackle that job.
     
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  3. Relsom

    Relsom Supporting Member

    Nov 23, 2013
    The Old Dominion
    Thanks. I can access the ones for the handle with out too much trouble. I was able to slip a fender washer into one of the feet. The other foot was apparently ready to break out and did as I was messing with it. The photo shows from left to right, the newly detached stud, the replacement stud, and 2 replacement studs for a rectangular tolex case that needs them. Note the studs for the molded case are larger than those for the tolex case. The replacement stud for the molded case uses a rivet insert, whereas all of the originals use a split shaft that is built in. SKB shows them for $2.50 but are out of stock. I picked these up from another supplier. I plan on using epoxy and plastic pieces to reenforce the area. Studs.jpg
     
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  4. boxerrider

    boxerrider

    Mar 16, 2009
    Some time standing in the afternoon sun might help. In addition to softening the adhesive, the molded plastic expands at a different rate than the lining causing some separation. Work around the edge to find the weakest spot and start from there. If you can find a piece of thin, flexible metal or plastic, like a spatula, to work behind and inbetween it can help. Breaking the foam is not the end of the world - apply some adhesive in there when you put everything back together and you may never notice the difference after you're done.

    Enjoy!
    Jeff
     
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  5. sissy kathy

    sissy kathy Back to Bass-ics Gold Supporting Member

    Apr 21, 2014
    Arbutus, MD
    I repair a lot of clarinet cases and the sun treatment works well. Stand the case on end with the exterior pointed to the sun. I also have some metal strapping for banding cargo. It is extremely flexible and works well for breaking the glue bond once it is warmed up. I use the banding with a fatigued end for cutting the glue bond. I tried finishing the End with a file but the fatigued end works much, much, better. A filed end is good for holding on to though. I use hot glue to glue foam back together.it works well and if you get large areas with the foam messed up you can make a coarse mold of crumpled newspaper to support your plush and use white glue in with the styrofoam balls to make a pretty good molded piece.
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2020
    Relsom likes this.
  6. charlie monroe

    charlie monroe Gold Supporting Member

    Feb 14, 2011
    Buffalo, NY
    interested bystander here.

    I’m following everything you say except “fatigued end”. Can you expand on this, I’m just not tracking the vernacular. TIA
     
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  7. sissy kathy

    sissy kathy Back to Bass-ics Gold Supporting Member

    Apr 21, 2014
    Arbutus, MD
    Not Cut, bent back and forth until it breaks. It usually only takes four or five times and the banding snaps leaving a rough edge that will cut through the softened glue pretty good. If you aren't breaking the banding off of a box, you may need pliers to insure a nice crisp bend each time you fold and refold the banding.
     
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  8. Relsom

    Relsom Supporting Member

    Nov 23, 2013
    The Old Dominion
    Yes sissy kathy, please clarify. I'm imagining giving it a couple of nicks with a pair of diagonal cutters.

    Oh, I see you already responded^^^.
    Thanks!
     
    sissy kathy likes this.
  9. Relsom

    Relsom Supporting Member

    Nov 23, 2013
    The Old Dominion
    I'll give it a go tomorrow when I have more sunlight hours and after I come up with some banding. Thanks!
     
  10. Relsom

    Relsom Supporting Member

    Nov 23, 2013
    The Old Dominion
    IMG_20200712_165447.jpg Ta-da.... I couldn't come with any banding, but the trim levers, a bit of warm sunshine, and a little inspiration did the trick. Looks like I'll be redoing all 4 since they were all in the process of failing. To be continued. IMG_20200712_165255.jpg IMG_20200712_165303.jpg IMG_20200712_165403.jpg IMG_20200712_165255.jpg IMG_20200712_165303.jpg IMG_20200712_165316.jpg IMG_20200712_165403.jpg IMG_20200712_165447.jpg View attachment 3903085 IMG_20200712_165255.jpg IMG_20200712_165303.jpg IMG_20200712_165316.jpg IMG_20200712_165403.jpg IMG_20200712_165428.jpg IMG_20200712_165447.jpg
    Sorry for the random and duplicate photos.... that's what I get for doing this in my phone. I'll clean it up later....
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2020
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  11. sissy kathy

    sissy kathy Back to Bass-ics Gold Supporting Member

    Apr 21, 2014
    Arbutus, MD
    Okay. Now put a piece of packing tape over the offending hole and get a piece of metal with a hole in the center to reinforce the area where the repair goes. Next get a cork and burn it some. Scrape of the carbon and mix it into the epoxy you'll be making the repair with and pour it in place. cover the side of the metal that is going against the case and place it on the patch. Make sure the epoxy goes all the way to the edge of the metal. After it cures you can drill a hole through the plastic through the existing hole in the metal. Remove the tape and make the repair. Reassemble. I use hot glue for the reassembly of my cases, but they are pretty small, You might consider contact cement. If you use contact cement, DO NOT put cement on the sides of the case or you'll be hating life. If you are a careful and patient kind of guy you can put the liner in place and carefully hot glue around the edges, that isn't for the impatient though the glue wants to string everywhere. It requires patience to keep things looking neat.
     
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  12. boxerrider

    boxerrider

    Mar 16, 2009
    Nice!
    Friday I pulled the insides out of my Ibanez case to reattach the lid-stay straps. While I was working on it I noticed that all four feet were broken through. I'll reinforce those while I have it apart.
     
  13. Relsom

    Relsom Supporting Member

    Nov 23, 2013
    The Old Dominion
    Is the purpose of the carbon to make the color of the epoxy match the case better, or does it have some property that keeps it from peeling off of the existing plastic? I was thinking of using JB Weld. It's a fairly dark grey as it is.
     
  14. sissy kathy

    sissy kathy Back to Bass-ics Gold Supporting Member

    Apr 21, 2014
    Arbutus, MD
    It is to match the color.
     
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  15. Primary

    Primary TB Assistant

    Here are some related products that TB members are talking about. Clicking on a product will take you to TB’s partner, Primary, where you can find links to TB discussions about these products.

     
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