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My bass design

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Nick man, Jul 9, 2002.


  1. Its good, but I have some suggestions....

    2 vote(s)
    50.0%
  2. Its terrible in theory

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  3. Its perfect in theory

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  4. Lets see how its ends up before we vote.....

    2 vote(s)
    50.0%
  1. Nick man

    Nick man

    Apr 7, 2002
    Tampa Bay
    Hi everyone.

    I wanted to get some opinions and input on the bass design that I am working on.

    WOODS:

    Neck: Bocote
    Fingerboard: Bocote

    Body:5 layer top to back
    Zebrawood
    Purpleheart
    Mahogany
    Purpleheart
    Zebrawood
    (matching continous wood backplate of course!)

    There is the posibility that I will attempt to put a zebrawood headstock overlay.

    ELECTRONICS:

    EMG
    P, J in standard positions, and 35DC against neck*.
    BQC Stacked bass/trebble, Stacked Mid/Mid freq.

    FAAS
    Saddles and preamp.

    Independant volume control for each (4) PU, on stacked knobs.

    I am currently working on a system to power the bass' electronics.
    The system will be powered by an 18 volt power source that will sit in amp rack, and will be connected though a cable with a 5 pin Midi cable at one end, and 2, 1/4" male conectors, and power souce hookup.

    The 5 pin midi will be hooked up so that 2 pins carry the power source, 1 ground wire, and two live wires, one carrying the piezo signal, and one carrying the magnetic signal.

    HARDWARE:
    Color
    Black

    Tuners
    Sperzel locking

    Bridge
    Gotoh or Hipshot style B
    String through Body

    Knobs
    EMG sstandard, or wood ([zebrawood, purpleheart, mahogany, purpleheart, zebrawood] or [Bocote])

    Neck bolts
    4 with individual cups instead of neckplate

    Nut
    Graphite

    Pickgaurd
    Redpearl, with black plated controlplate

    Outputjack
    Sidemounted Neutrick Midi

    I think thats everything.

    I would really apreciate any input I can get, especially from the builders. The player can give me just as important input however since they are the ones who use them however!

    Peace
    Nick
     
  2. Nick man

    Nick man

    Apr 7, 2002
    Tampa Bay
    I forgot to add that that was the only picture I have of the designs on my computer and was just a rough draft.

    Peace
    Nick
     
  3. FBB Custom

    FBB Custom TalkBass Pro Commercial User

    Jan 26, 2002
    Maryland
    Owner: FBB Bass Works
    Two comments:

    1) bocote is a pretty heavy neckwood that also can give some people problems when gluing.

    2) there's an awful lot of electronics there. Also, the 35DC is going to be considerably louder than the P/J set. Personally, I'd leave that pickup out.
     
  4. Nick man

    Nick man

    Apr 7, 2002
    Tampa Bay
    Thanks for the input.

    1) I bought the neck from Warmoth, so that It would be easily interchangeable with a Moses graphite neck incase I ever took the bass cross country (They both have Fender neck specs.).

    If you are commenting on the weight of Bocote to illustrate ballance issues, I should mention that the upper horn reaches to the 12th fret, and while the body shape is relatively unique, I have confidence that the bulge in the rear of the upper portion of the bass should help ballance the bass.

    Being that I bought it already made, the only work I have to do on it is the shapping of the headstock, attachment of the hardware, and finishing. I may run into dificulty if I decide to put a zebrawood headstock overlay however. Thanks again for the insight.

    2) I know that there are alot more electronics in there than in most basses. I am not worried about leaving space for it all since the bass will be hollow body and almost all of the lower portion will be available for space.

    I have thought about the loudness of the pickups, and have decided that what I will do is install a set of trim pots inside the bass to bring all the pickups output to the same level. I will also most likely be putting the 35DC further from the strings since at the neck position it will have a greater pull on the strings, which might cause negative results.

    I hope that I will not find too many problems with the 35DC since I have found that I like the sound of humbuckers in that position to be apealing (Gibson EB series, Fender Telecaster bass).



    Thanks again for responding. I am a fan of your basses which have unique styling, and look like fun to play.

    Peace
    Nick
     
  5. sounds like you thought out everything you are looking for. The only question I might raise is the power for the electronics. I think there is a reason that many people didn't adopt the Alembic power supply theory, mostly due to maintance issues. If you do go with your midi cable make sure to build atleast 2 backup cables. I have seen some good custom electronics ideas that killed a gig when they didn't work well on stage. I am curious to know how that sounds if you do the semi hollow body design you have in your drawing.
     
  6. Nick man

    Nick man

    Apr 7, 2002
    Tampa Bay
    Thanks for the input.

    I have been thinking baout the possible failure of the electronics, so I have decided that I might put an electronics bypass switch in the circuit that will only leave the Piezo's activated (cant have the EMG's working since they will always need power), and I could keep a few backup cables around all the time.

    I have the same feelings and experience as you when it coems to electronics failure at a gig. That was one reason I bought my G&L L-2500 (it has an active/passive switch.) Im pretty sure that I will incorporate the bypass feature as a fail-safe.

    Not that Id ever be caught dead at a gig without a backup!


    As far as the hollow body design, you could try several basses with this design. Spector, Warwick, and several others have used this design in the past, and although it does not have a huge impact when the bass is played through an amp, when the bass is played acoustically, it has much more depth and resonance. Some would say it makes it sound a little muddy, but I dont think it does.

    I actually was inspired to do it since the body is actually a bit larger than most basses, and I wanted to lose weight. While thinking of a solution I saw a Telecaster thinline (my second favorite guitar) in a catalogue and decide to give it a try.

    The method I will use to make the cavities is almost identical to that used by Alembic, with the addition of an F-hole.

    Peace
    Nick