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My Custom Specs

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by Chrisbass, Jun 22, 2001.


  1. Chrisbass

    Chrisbass

    Jun 22, 2001
    Bonn, Germany
    hey,

    these are the specs for my dpcustom, which I´ll order soon:

    ---
    36" XtraLongscale 5-String Bass
    Custom Headstock Shape
    custom Body Shape

    3 Piece Neck consisting of:

    Maple
    Purpleheart
    Maple

    Neck Thickness at 1st Fret: 18mm
    Neck Profile: Thin and broad
    String Spacing: Maximum Possible


    Ebony Fingerboard
    Abalone "Yin Yang" Inlays


    "Sandwich" Body Consisting of
    Ash Body Core
    Quilted Maple Top (Bookmatched to center)
    Quilted Maple Back (Bookmatched to center)
    Thin Purpleheart Middle Laminates

    Layering of the woods:
    Quilted Maple
    Purpleheart (Thin)
    Ash (Body Core)
    Purpleheart (Thin)
    Quilted Maple

    Wooden backplates (are "continous" backplates possible?)
    Quilted Maple Trussrod Cover

    Black Hardware:
    Gotoh Quickrelease Bridge
    Gotoh Tuners
    Schaller Straplocks

    Bartolini Pickups:
    M56E Neck Pickup
    M56EX Bridge Pickup
    Bartolini 3-Band E.Q.
    E.Q. with Active / Passive Switch
    Pickups configured with 3-Way Switch (Single Coil + Phantom Coil, Series, Paralell)

    Finish: Natural Satin Finish
    ----

    Tell me what you think..

    Chris
     
  2. i like the idea of the extended scale length

    i have a 5 @36" and the B is amaizing

    but make sure that Dave is comfortable doing that scale, some builders arn't.

    i also like the idea for the 3 piece neck

    here's the url for the place that i got my bass from(used, but beautiful, it's a series 2, there on 3 now, but have a lokk at his work)

    http://www.overwaterbasses.com
     
  3. Christopher

    Christopher

    Apr 28, 2000
    New York, NY
    I'd go with a gloss finish. It won't cost much more, and it'd be a shame to see that wood scuffed up. The 36" scale is too much for me. more power to you if you're comfortable with it
     
  4. rickbass

    rickbass Supporting Member

    Chris - Welcome to Talkbass! I quoted the sections of your post where I felt I could offer something constructive, based on the rather extensive research I did for mine.

    >> Abalone inlay: Consider Ablam, ("Laminated Abalone?), for 3 reasons;

    1. It's less expensive than regular shell but wears just as well and is not a synthetic
    2. It is easier to work and can be cut in finer detail than regular shell
    3. It has uniform, eye-popping figuring across its surface whereas natural shell tends to be uneven with rather plain areas appearing next to figured areas

    >> Your body will be almost as much glue as wood. As pretty as it might look, if sound is your #1 concern, fewer body pieces would work better, sonically. For one thing, none of the slices are going to be big enough to contribute their best tonal properties significantly and all those seams just don't resonate well.
    Secondly, your incredibly hard purpleheart encases your resonant ash. I would think your ash will get choked before it's characteristics can surface.

    >> The continuous backplates - This is what I asked for, too, a wooden cavity cover that is made from the same piece of wood as the back/underside wood and keeps the grain uninterrupted. I think it's a shame to cut the control cavity and scrap that nice grain and replace it with either a tacky looking plastic/metal cover or wood that doesn't keep the flow of the grain uninterrupted. Have you seen the GR bass that was reviewed in the latest Basss Player? I really like their idea. Instead of having a drop-in control cavity cover, they extend the cover to the side and butt of the bass and those seams just seem to disappear out of view on the sides.

    >>> The satin finish - Personally, I think Dave's tung oil lets the best tonal properties of the woods come out. But I gig regularly and like you, protection would be a concern for me. (I went with the tung oil but others aren't going to handle it during load-in). You might check with Dave to see what is the lightest poly coat he can put on it. These thick, goopy, poly finishes that make your instrument look like a piece of hard candy just choke the tone in many cases.

    >> A really important spec I didn't see in yours - 100% shielding and grounding. Also, I didn't see anything about a two-way truss rod.

    >> Your Barts come with a harness. When I was looking at Barts, it turned out the harness I really wanted didn't appear in their catalog. The way I found out about it was asking the pickup gurus at some of the big dealers who handle Barts on the web.

    Whatever your final spec's are, put up pics of your bass if you can when it's finished.
     
  5. Angus

    Angus Supporting Member

    Apr 16, 2000
    Palo Alto, CA
    The 36" isn't necessary, and it will just limit both playability and string choice. Sounds good, but you unless you're playing jazz or something of that nature, you'll never notice the tone differences, but you will notice the change in feel...a lot.
     
  6. thats crap Angus, a 36" scale length is the most justified choice, now only does it allow you to have a B that is as tight as the E, you get a good 2 octaves, no tiny spaces they expect you to play,

    it won't limit playabillity at all,
    overall he'll have a very good custom, instead of a 4 @35" or 34" with a floppy excuse of a B string

    have a look at the builder who built my bass and look at the names on the home page that he's built for, then you'll understand why extended scale are worth it

    he was one, if not the first in the world to do it

    Fodera, move the string posts, some extend scale, i know which i prefer
     
  7. Actually, what you said was crap. There are 34" scales with awesomely tight B's. Ditto for 35"s. Ane believe me, when you play a 34" and get used to your twelfth fret being in front of your chest, then you play a 35" and the twelfth has moved away from you until its in front of your left arm, your playability can be hampered.

    At the end of the day, good neck construction is just as important as scale length.
     
  8. right!!!!!!!!,

    so your saying that it will affect playabillity?

    ok, he's spending the best part of 1k, or more

    and because he has a (assuming here) ceaper bass, say a 34", he's going to apply the same spec to his custom

    i don't think so, when you get a custom bass you want it to be the best it can possibly be, you don't want to make a decision and then find out when it's finished thats it doesn't feel right.

    a 34' just won't work for a thru neck, a 35" would be better
    but 36" is just, out of this world, let me ask you have you ever played a 36"??

    or compared it to a 35", i have , and i own a 36", see that link in my post at the top, follow that and have a look

    and before you say it, i'm not showing off or gloating, i'm 19, but i know the difference it makes because i went from a fender J to a 'world class' 2k bass in a day, and i love

    have a look at that, and guess what scale length that has?

    http://www.overwater.co.uk/obasses/...bigpix/players/roger_gardener_7string_gig.jpg
     
  9. i'm getting a 7 string next, in about 3 years when i have enough money :)

    and i'm considering getting a 38" scale
     
  10. Nino Valenti

    Nino Valenti Commercial User

    Feb 2, 2001
    Staten Island NYC
    Builder: Valenti Basses
    What's the point of arguing over scale lenth!!!! Who cares? I have 3 5 string basses w/34" scale necks (2 Spector's & a Warmoth) & the B's are far from floppy. If chrisbass want's a 36" scale neck, more power to him. I'd love to see pics when the bass is finished.

    If you're an experienced bassist, you can & will take what ever is thrown you way & make it sound like the bass you've played for a lifetime. No excuses. If you're in a studio situation & you have to play another bass & you say "This isn't the bass I normally play" you'll hear the door slamming as you leave. :)

    Hey tyburn, I hope you didn't have a MIM J because I've never played one w/a nice B.
     
  11. Angus

    Angus Supporting Member

    Apr 16, 2000
    Palo Alto, CA
    Tyburn, my 6 string was a 36" scale. It was one of the most solidly constructed basses I've ever played. Let me tell you, it had a killer B string...but it wasn't because of the scale!

    I think you're confusing the scale length with the overall quality of your bass...Overwater makes quality basses. But I guarantee you, if you got a 34" Overwater, it would sound damn near as good, but would be far more playable. Just so you know, you'll never be able to play the 38" 7 string without major either technique problems or wrist/hand problems. IMO, it's just too big. If someone INSISTS on getting 36", which isn't necessary, I advise them to not get anything more than a 5 string with it.

    It's not crap, and it's not very nice to say so! I'm warning the poster that they are getting something unnecessary that will affect their playing far to negatively with not enough reward on the difference in tone. All the 36" scale basses I've played, and there have been plenty (including the one I owned) have sounded good...but they weren't as playable as they should've been. This included a couple $3k basses and even a couple $5k basses. Don't blame it on the manufacturer, because in each case except one, I'd played other examples of those basses, and found them to be great playable basses...but not as much with the 36". I've played a 36" Fodera and a 33" Fodera, and both had totally killer B strings.

    It's construction, not scale length.
     
  12. DP Custom

    DP Custom DP Custom Basses

    Feb 7, 2001
    NC, USA
    IMhO, it's both.
     
  13. i would think that while a 36" scale length might make for a nice B string, it would also make for an uncomfortably tight G string. something to think about.
     
  14. That is a real good point, what about a fanned fret thing? Wouldnt that keep the B at 36" but have the G be at like 35"ish?
     
  15. by dancehallclasher
    "i would think that while a 36" scale length might make for a nice B string, it would also make for an uncomfortably tight G string. something to think about."

    true, but in my experience, because the G post is lower than the B ie not 5 in a row it doesn't affect the G tension,, actually i like it becasue i can get strings for this XL 5 cheaper than 4


    you can't expect a bass to have a perfect setup everytime,
    but spending that amount of money on a custom bass you need to think things through and look at it from an objective point of veiw

    the guy obviousley understands scale, and he's looked at materials,

    a 36" scale doesn't just allow for taughtness of the string, but even, sonic and acoustic response.

    i don't want a bass that sounds good amped up to it's balls, thats not my bass, my bass sounds good acoustically, electronics only add or enhance the sound to an audioble level

    so, you get a bass with a 34" or 35" and it has a 'killer' B string, but whats the action like, how heavy is the instrument

    i agree that construction plays a big part in the response and how the B string plays and feels, but without a decent string length you have no B string

    bigger manufacturers are renowned for ****ty B, while the smaller much more 'Bespoke' builders have a rep for good B's and in general very good string range

    you mentioned Fodera, very nice basses, what memorable thing did they do for the B string?

    ANSWER: moved the B string post to the end of the head, in theory increasing the scale lenth without affect string length or playabillity

    by increasing length they, and other builders found that they can exert more poundage PSI than what they can do with standard 34 and 35, they fore-go the need for string trees and bars and exstreamly wide angled headstocks.

    i'm not saying thats it's better, just because i have one, i'm saying that it's just as good, if not an improvement on what has been set in stone

    if he wants to get it, let him, you don't have to be a monster of a man, saying that the reason that i have a 36" is beacause i'm 6'6"

    Nino meantioned adaptabillity, it's takes perhaps a couple of days to get used to it, and thats just normal practice stuff, if you can play a 36" then long or madium scale lengths will be a piece of cake

    I apologise for taking such an attitude, but if the bass world wants to advance and improve on what is at present we need players like myself who are willing to play different instruments, like big JT and his conklins

    i will get a 37 or 38 " 7 and find it no problem to face, because thats the kind of player i am,

    but just to end, Angus i know your experienced at your age but please don't think that we all aren't, Overwater, thats where i study, so i've learnt alot about instruments, and thta ultimately is why i own one

    to Chris bass, sorry about the mess i made of your post, to be fair, if you think you can handle it go for it, at no point did i say it would be like going from a 34 therefore it won't actually affect playabillity, it just takes some getting used to.
    make sure u try some out before you commit and make sure that Dave P's up to the job( but we all know he is :) )

    stu
     
  16. DP Custom

    DP Custom DP Custom Basses

    Feb 7, 2001
    NC, USA
    yes it is :)
    mmmmmmmmmm tight G string :D

    it may be uncomfortable, but it's nice to look at ;)

    DP
     
  17. noooooooooo, bad images , make them go away

    stu's mum: ohh dave look what you've done, now all stu can see is DHC in a G string


    back to stu

    :(
     
  18. Actually, I think it has the B string at 37", and the G string at 34".
     
  19. hey hey hey, let's not go crazy here!
     
  20. r we talking about a dingwall now or DHC choice of underwear?