1. Please take 30 seconds to register your free account to remove most ads, post topics, make friends, earn reward points at our store, and more!  
     
    TalkBass.com has been uniting the low end since 1998.  Join us! :)
  2. Because Photobucket has chosen to in effect "take down" everyone's photos (unless you pay them), we have extended post edit time in the Luthier's Corner to UNLIMITED.  If you used photobucket and happen to still have your images of builds, you can go back and fix as many of your posts as far back as you wish.

    Note that TalkBass will host unlimited attachments for you, all the time, for free ;)  Just hit that "Upload a File" button.  You are also free to use our Media Gallery if you want a place to create albums, organize photos, etc :)

My first stringéd creation.

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Trevorus, Dec 4, 2005.


  1. Trevorus

    Trevorus

    Oct 18, 2002
    Urbana, IL
    Well, this is a really a 3-d art project for my friend's class. We both created it. He did the designing, I did the tooling, shaping, and mechanics. It was pretty much done freehand, and it only shows in a few spots. I have yet to finish it, but I have a good purple stain to put on it. Anyone have any good recommendations for a glossy hard finish that is easy?
     
  2. That's pretty neat. A version of a lap steel.

    I would recommend a brush-on poly like Varathane, Spar Urethane, or the Minwax versions. With a foam brush, you can get a good level surface and once it hardens up, you can sand, polish and buff like any of the other finishes, right up to a mirror reflection.

    Don't forget to sign the headstock before you put the clearcoat on! :D
     
  3. Trevorus

    Trevorus

    Oct 18, 2002
    Urbana, IL
    Awesome. That sounds like it will work nicely. Also, I have a question. How do you calculate "fret" spacing? I want to build an overlay that will sit under the strings, and make it more functional. It's a 22.5" scale.
     
  4. BassikLee

    BassikLee Commercial User

    Feb 13, 2004
    Deltona, FL
    Owner: Brevard Sound Systems
    Hard to explain properly, we went thru this once before and someone took what I said and put up a nice computer graphic of it. Essentially, the first "fret" is 1/18 of the total scale lenth from the nut. This means 1.25" for you, for the first fret. Then the second is 1/18 of the remaining lenth, etc etc. For the sencond "fret", take the 22.5 and subtract your 1.25 of the first, leaving 21.25. Now devide that by 18 for the second fret, at 1.18" from the first. Subtract 1.18 from 21.25, divide THAT number by 18 and so on, and so on, etc etc, ad nauseum.

    HTH,

    Lee
     
  5. Trevorus

    Trevorus

    Oct 18, 2002
    Urbana, IL
    Cool, I am planning on making a plexiglass, or lexan overlay with the lines clearly marked, so they allow you to see the wood underneath.
     
  6. Among the other things it does, the spreadsheet that Pilotjones assembled has JP's fret calc page in it.

    Spreadsheet thread

    The actual attachment is in the second last post.

    The method it uses is more accurate than the on BassikLee described but from memory its a matter of fractions of a mm, so there's not much in it.

    Josh D
     
  7. Trevorus

    Trevorus

    Oct 18, 2002
    Urbana, IL
    Thanks a ton dave! That woks really well! Also, thanks Pilotjones for creating that sheet!
     
  8. Trevorus

    Trevorus

    Oct 18, 2002
    Urbana, IL
  9. Works great for older style instruments where the dicrepancy actually creates a small amount of compensation, like older fretted acoustic instruments.

    I think the actual number is something like 17.817. Use the fretcalculators and save your head the trouble ;)
     
  10. Trevorus

    Trevorus

    Oct 18, 2002
    Urbana, IL
    Well, I stained it purple last night, and routed for the controls. Hopefully I'll be able to get a gloss finish on it soon.