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My Warmoth Jazz Project

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by CzarMike, Jun 10, 2002.

  1. Wow, I'm incredibly impressed with Warmoth right now. I got the parts about 3 days after placing the order, every part is there (that's every piece needed to build a bass except a bridge and pickups) and every part is exceptionally crafted.
    Here's a list of the cool parts right off my head:
    Swamp Ash Jazz body (tad over 5lbs)
    Maple Neck w/Block inlays (Geddy would be proud)
    Schaller Tuners

    Things from my collection going on it:
    Dimarzio DP123 pickups
    Badass II Bridge
    Chrome Pickup cover
    Thomastic-Infeld Jazz Strings

    I just got a nifty digital camera, so I have been documenting the whole process from the arrival of the parts to the last finishing details. I hope to arrange a website with the whole shabang.
    Here are some pics of progress so far (right now the body is awaiting sand & sealer and the neck is getting coat after coat of finish).
    All my warmoth stuff
    The body new
    Neck & Parts 1
    Neck & Parts 2
    With dry grain sealer on
    Buffed off grain sealer
    This is where I am now, the picture sucks, but in person the wood is beautiful. I was originally going to do it in a gray color scheme, but after testing stains on my junk ash pieces I came up with a way of highlighting just the grain of the ash with an ebony stain, which makes for some nice eye candy. I was able to match the maple neck to it by using a similar staining technique.
    Rock On
  2. Nice! keep us posted every photo you take!


  3. ashton


    Jan 4, 2001
    very nice, basically exactly the same as what id get from warmoth. i love the look of maple necks with the black block inlays but i dont really like maple.....it feels weird to me. rosewood or pao ferro or ebony will be my choice when i get a warmoth.
  4. Hey, while yer at it (and if you don't mind) would you keep us posted of the costs involved with your project? Lots of folks don't understand that these things aren't "cheap" - even when you DIY.
  5. VRBR1C Retainer: $1.80
    NP1C Neck Plate: $3.50
    NP1P Neck Pad: $1.75
    JCP1C: J Bass Control Plate: $12.00
    SSL1C Straplock: $10
    Schaller Tuners: $50 set
    JBK1L Knobs: 2 @ 1.50
    JBK1S Knobs: 1.50
    CTS250 Pot: 3 @ $3
    CAP1 Capacitor: $0.50
    NS1C Neck Screw: 4 @ 0.30
    PGS1C Pickguard Screw: 20 @ 0.12
    NTS1C Bridge Screws: 6 @ 0.15
    BMS1B: Bass Pickup Screw: 8 @ 0.25
    Black/White/Black Jazz Bass Pickguard: $16
    NBFG Fender Curved Bone Nut: $3.50
    $119 total for parts
    $15 shipping
    BN399 Neck: $239
    B255 Body: $209

    Total from Warmoth: $582

    Reranch Parts:
    Sand & seal
    Grain Filler
    Sandpaper set

    Stain, finish, more sandpaper, and misc from home depot: $50-60

    So this probably ran around $700 (minus bridge and pickups, which would be another $150-200)

    But you have to remember that YOU are building your bass, you have the ability to maximize the quality of every single piece and meticulously oversee it's construction. Theoretically if you know enough about what you're doing, you should be able to get the exact tone you want out of it. I chose to build my own because I have very precise tastes in what I demand out of my bass, and I'm tired of just upgrading and modifying current basses, and settling for less than perfect woods. I'm financing this project by selling a couple of my current basses, and it really shouldn't end up costing me anything, more of a trade-off I suppose.

    Well for the next week or so I'll be applying the finishes, I'll try to take lots of pictures. See you all later tonight,

    Sources for parts:
    Guitar Reranch
    EBAY!!!!!! This will save you so much money it's pathetic. I got my pickups and bridge through it a long time ago. I got a great 70's badass II bridge (needed major chrome-polishing) for like $30 and the pickups for quite cheap as well.
  6. Thats the thing, i would love to build my own bass, but like many people, i don't have $700 lying around, not to mention the fact that its $700 US.

    Still.. i can dream...


  7. Nino Valenti

    Nino Valenti Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 2, 2001
    Staten Island NYC
    Builder: Valenti Basses
    Hey, that bass looks familiar. ;)

    <img src="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=552868">
  8. Sweet, I hoped it would look like that when I get done! I have all the pictures of that bass printed off from your website, I've actually been using them when I go in stores so they know what I want! I haven't seen that one you posted yet though, do you have more pictures of it? I'm pretty much having the same thing, except with those darker black grain lines and a chrome pickup cover. Thanks a billion for the helpful e-mail, and nice basses man!!
  9. Merls, yer lookin' at this whole thing a bit wrong. While I can certainly understand that you don't have the full wallet to get the whole thing at once, this method affords you the luxury of getting it piece at a time. Try buying a Sadowsky that way! ;) Get just the bridge and then next month, the pickguard and keep building from there. So what if it takes 6 months to get all the pieces. I bet that you will be able to acquire the individual components in a shorter time than it would take to save up the whole bill and buy it all at once. At least that's true of me and my thrift habits. And, don't forget that places like Custom Shop Parts are offering pretty high quality stuff for lots less than Warmoth. Here and there, you'll be able to beat their prices on certain pieces.
  10. Nino Valenti

    Nino Valenti Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 2, 2001
    Staten Island NYC
    Builder: Valenti Basses
    The only bad thing about your sugesstion is that the shipping will kill you. Warmoth has a Set Shipping Price. If you were to order peice by peice, it will cost you alittle extra in the long run but it wont hurt your wallet all at once.
  11. I acquired the parts for this bass over a period of about a year, I have a very small wallet but I tried not to let that affect my project.
    You could try just buying a warmoth neck for your bass, then upgrading tuners and misc for a year or so, and then finally buy a warmoth body and move everything to it, that way you can experiment with things you like and still have a bass to play. In this past year of messing around I've learned many skills that will come in handy when building this bass, like how bass wiring works, what the best pickups will be for my style of music, what finishes to use on it, etc.
    These are just my advice though, I'm a low budget, non-veteran, but hopefully this bass should suit my needs for some time.

    Now on to some fun stuff, here is a pic I just snapped of my current progress.

    --The body has been totally sanded and is getting ultra thin coats of a high-gloss polyurethane that I chose over my originally planned tung oil finish for a few reasons: Looked and felt awesome on my test wood, ultra-hard finish that will virtually last forever, and it should accent the bass's mid-range punch (so I've read...)
    The headstock will also get this finish to match the body.
    The downsides of choosing urethane over tung oil are that I will lose a bit of the natural woodyness of the bass's sound, but that is something I can deal with.

    --For the back of the neck I chose a satin polyurethane, once again because it had a great, fast feel to it and will be very protective to the wood.

    --On the fretboard itself I chose good old fashioned formby's high-gloss tung oil. This stuff is very nice, I prefer it greatly over the minwax equivalent in every quality. It will give the woody, natural feel of an old fender and be very serviceable to the know-nothing repairman (me)
    The Finishes
    Left: Minwax Polycrylic Satin
    Middle: Formby's Tung Oil
    Right: General Finishes Arm R Seal (high gloss)

    My bassic finish application process is as follows:
    • Apply an extremely thin layer of the finish using nice paper towels (advice from my wood expert advisor)
    • Allow to dry for at least 8 hours (longer on humid days)
    • Then before applying the next layer buff gently with buffing pad (2000 steel wool would work as well I believe), just enough to give the layer something to stick to.
    • Using this process there isn't much room for runs or drips in the finish, but when I came across one, I was easily able to use a piece of wet 2000 sandpaper and rub it out (I know that 2000 is a bit fine for most people, 1200 would work great too).
      I'll be continuing this process for as long as it takes to reach a really nice thick glossy finish.

    Electrical Update tomorrow (later today technically)

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