NBD: got my dream bass used but noticed this. Is it doomed?

It should just be the nut that is stripped. If you can remove it, and if that is the only issue, it ought to be a $10 part and an easy fix.

Replacement Truss Rod Nut

 

I'm sending that back. You deserve better.

Did GC note this, in their description? I wouldn't consider that 'normal wear'.

 

Its probably stripped as it was cranked down all the way. Does the neck have a lot of bow? Action looks really high in one pic.

 

If it is too stripped to adjust, I don't think so. The neck should move as you loosen the truss rod, though. In my experience, it isn't all that uncommon to damage the nut, but damage to the rod itself isn't that common.

It is possible to reach the limits of the truss rod and still need to straighten the neck more. This points to a potentially more serious problem, but isn't necessarily the end of life for the neck. I have been able resolve that with a little lighter gauge of strings. One time I added washers as spacers under the nut to get a little more play from the truss rod - not an ideal solution, but it saved a 50-year-old Fender neck.

I'm not exactly a G&L historian, but I think there are three different truss rods in G&L basses. The oldest ones had a bullet truss rod nut, and this is clearly not that. The newest ones have a dual action rod, and that nut is not removable. Based on the wear, I'm betting yours is from the middle - and that is the nut I linked to.

 

The nut could also just be rounded because they used the wrong size wrench. I think GC is 45 days for returns? I would replace the nut and make sure the truss rod works and return it if it doesn't.

 

Also, if you can sort that truss rod problem out, that is a great price. The wear wouldn't bother me either.

I have a metallic red ASAT. The ergonomics of these basses aren't for everyone, but they really are great looking, playing, and sounding instruments.

Agree. It all comes down to preference, but it looks to be set up with what I consider to be medium-high action. That bass should be able to take a lower setup, but again, it all comes down to personal preference.

 

Get it checked. It might only cost you $670 for your dream bass (plus some labor to change that nut).

 

Just FYI, might be good to verify production year of your bass. The replacement truss rod nut linked indicates:

"Replacement 4mm Truss Rod Nut for Tribute Series models and USA instruments manufactured from mid-2006 to mid-2013."

However:

Replacement Truss Rod Nut Kit ( 80' - 06' )

Links to a similar nut, described as:

"Replacement Truss Rod "Bullet" for USA instruments manufactured from 80's - 06'. Included are two brass spacer washers."

Apparently there was a change mid-'06, so year of production may come into play. Either of them indicate
that "current US models and Tributes built 2015 and later have dual-action truss rods with integrated truss nut that is welded on, not replaceable."

I definitely concur with trying a replacement if you like the bass otherwise. Being the cautious type, I'd
make sure to get the right nut and have a luthier install and make sure the truss rod is otherwise OK, but
that's up to you. As others have noted, if you got this from GC you have 45 days to return so why not?

 

If the nut will not turn either way i.e. you cannot remove it I would probably take it back. I respect that its your dream bass, but ASATs are a fairly common bass and if its your dream you deserve to have a nice working one.

 

I hate to be a dream buster, but....

That ruined nut is a big red flag on that particular bass. It's torn up enough that it looks like someone was trying very hard to adjust the rod, like maybe it's super stiff or even frozen.

The caveat: That's a solid maple bi-cut neck, which means that replacing a broken or frozen truss rod is all but impossible. BTDT.

There's a reason G&L abandoned the bi-cut solid maple necks quite a few years ago. Hopefully a fresh nut will work. Good luck.

 

Its not that bad.
Looks bad, but not that bad.
Still has hex in there.

 

I agree it’s not fully stripped. That just looks to me like some ham fist used whatever they had on hand that could cram in there. That happens more than it probably should on the road. The deeper interior surface area appears to be still usable

Does an Allen wrench gain traction if you try to adjust?

 

Ok, so it's not just me seeing that. From the one picture provided, the first thing I noticed was the remaining hex portion.

 

Someone either used the wrong wrench, and gave up. Or the angle is weird and the entrance to the hex
gets bummed up from people using longer straight wrenches. Or the cheapo factory wrench or a Home Depot multi wrench where you have to fight the angle. Which dings up the beginning of the hex.

It might be harder now to figure out the right wrench, since its going to be tough at the beginning of the insert.
But there is still lots of hex in there. Id assume the factory documents will note what is the actual size.

They have Taper wrenches or Gripper Wrenches and all kinds of fancy tools at Stew Mac for pretty basic problems like this.