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Neck Pocket Leveling and Creaking Problem

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by mikecd1, Feb 22, 2016.


  1. mikecd1

    mikecd1 Supporting Member

    Mar 3, 2009
    New England
    Bought a new vintage modified Squier Jazz that I've been modifying and after noticing some creaking in the neck especially while tuning to pitch decided to remove the neck for a look. I discovered that from the two bolts closest to the body back to the pocket where the butt of the neck joins the body that there is a taper down in the surface. That is to say that the surface dips down from those two bolt holes back to the body. My initial reaction was ***? I spoke to the tech at GC who reminded me that Squier's dont have the same QC as more expensive Fenders and that if I tighten the screws down properly it should not matter as it is flat where the screws are and doesn't drop. I took a business card and cut a piece in the shape of the area with some extra material closest to the heel butt and torqued it down pretty good. After some fun with the truss rod it seems better and there is much less "creaking". I've read some other threads, but not seen anything about a "shaved" neck pocket like mine. Its a nice light body and with the duncan pups and CTS pots and an orange drop tone cap sounds mighty nice (mine has the maple neck with white block inlays). Don't want to return it, but am wondering if there is something I might do to level out the pocket properly?
     
  2. mech

    mech Supporting Member

    Jun 20, 2008
    Meridian, MS, USA
    One question I have is do the neck screws move freely through the holes in the body?? If they have to be screwed through the body they won't pull the neck down firmly into the pocket and creaking will result. They need to be enlarged to where the screws will move freely. The GC tech is correct. If the pocket is flat between all four neck screws the neck will seat where it should but it's not the best situation. You can also cut a piece of wire window screen or open weave sandpaper the size of the neck pocket and put it between the neck and body that will prevent any movement of the neck. Have the holes in the body properly sized first.
     
    mikecd1 likes this.
  3. mikecd1

    mikecd1 Supporting Member

    Mar 3, 2009
    New England
    The holes and movement is getting better and was not optimal the first couple times I screwed them down as I noticed some resistance on a screw or two. I was considering getting on of those kits with the brass inserts and the machine screws to ensure a tight fit. What is the best way to get those screws and the holes in the neck lined up and working freely and straightly inserted?
     
  4. mech

    mech Supporting Member

    Jun 20, 2008
    Meridian, MS, USA
    Since the holes in the neck are already threaded, I would drill the holes in the body one drill size larger (about 1/32") than the diameter of the screws. If the holes in the neck aren't stripped and hold as they should, there is no need for inserts and bolts. For the inserts larger holes must be drilled in the neck and they must be perpendicular to the flat seating surface of the heel. This takes a drill press, a fixture for the curved surface of the finger board and a correct size Forstner bit. If what you have will work I wouldn't mess with it other than drilling out the holes in the body and using the piece of metal window screen or open weave sandpaper to make sure the neck won't move.
     
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  5. Qlanq

    Qlanq

    Jul 9, 2007
    Swansea
    ^+1. Drilling out the body holes-easeist way of sorting it out.
     
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  6. mikecd1

    mikecd1 Supporting Member

    Mar 3, 2009
    New England
    Thanks, I won't bother with the inserts then and like the metal screen idea to put down in there.
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2016
  7. mikecd1

    mikecd1 Supporting Member

    Mar 3, 2009
    New England
    As an update, I re-drilled the holes and know the neck pocket is not the problem. There is something funky about the truss rod, but after several tries, I'm getting really decent action and creaking is gone for the most part. Occasionally I'll take it out of the bag and as I lift it by the neck I get a little creak. While adjusting the truss rod I would make a 1/4 turn and then do chromatics up and downs each string. If I got a really metallic buzzing at a fret I would wait a little while and go another 1/4 turn. What I find really interesting is that when I got the bass in the .010-.014 range I was still getting buzzing. I've now straightenend the neck even more and have eliminated buzzing, gotten great action and only get a minimal amount of "creaking". It must have read my mind when I close to edge of getting a new neck although now that I've gone to the Warmoth page I'm drooling over the possibilites!!!!
     
  8. mech

    mech Supporting Member

    Jun 20, 2008
    Meridian, MS, USA
    Glad your action is straightened out. A thought on the creaking you still have now that the neck mounting is good and the truss rod is as tight as it needs to be and the creaking has decreased.....it may be the seating surface of the TR nut moving a little on the metal plate that keeps it from sinking into the wood. I'd try some graphite from a #2 pencil for lubrication rubbed on the seating surface of the nut if it's still enough to bother you. Wouldn't hurt to get some in the threads either.
     
    mikecd1 likes this.
  9. walterw

    walterw Supportive Fender Gold Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 20, 2009
    alpha-music.com
    so you're clear that the screws are sliding through the body like @mech mentioned?

    'cause the neck will never clamp tight against the body unless they do.
     
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  10. mikecd1

    mikecd1 Supporting Member

    Mar 3, 2009
    New England
    I will definitely try that, but not while I'm honeymooning with the new feel and action I'm getting. Thanks so much!
     
    mech likes this.
  11. mech

    mech Supporting Member

    Jun 20, 2008
    Meridian, MS, USA
    Yep, if it feels right don't mess with it.
     
    mikecd1 likes this.

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