1. Please take 30 seconds to register your free account to remove most ads, post topics, make friends, earn reward points at our store, and more!  
    TalkBass.com has been uniting the low end since 1998.  Join us! :)

Neck removal worries...

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by FireAarro, Nov 28, 2004.

  1. FireAarro


    Aug 8, 2004
    Okay, I adjusted the truss rod on my Geddy Lee Jazz. Infamously, this requires a neck removal. Now I'm worried if I screwed up anything in the process. What can go wrong? What can go irreversibly wrong? Are the screws supposed to be really tight screwing in?
  2. its okay to remove the neck,or Leo Fender wouldnt have had them made like that.

    the really tight thing is kind of a worry, but i wouldnt think too much about it. hand tighten them down at first to get them in the grooves, otherwise your going to chew up the wood in the neck so it wont hold a screw. if it worries your horribly you can always have threaded brass inserts put in. i believe hambone has some info on that.
  3. seanm

    seanm I'd kill for a Nobel Peace Prize! Supporting Member

    Feb 19, 2004
    Ottawa, Canada
    What can go irreversibly wrong? You could be tightening a screw and have the screwdriver slip, lose your balance, fall out of your chair and through a plate glass window and fall 25 stories. And then you DIE!

    As long as you put the screws back in the same holes, you will be fine. If you are really worried, remove the neck again and make sure you only have 4 holes.

    bassist4ever's tip is a good one. Always start all the screws first and then tighten them.
  4. HooBass


    May 27, 2003
    You may have already seen folks discuss this, but one can do a mod to provide truss rod access that is fairly painless.

    I picture some folks having done something more elaborate than I did. In my case, it involved taking off the neck (I know, not so painless to everyone) and pickguard, masking off an area to be cut, and about fifteen patient minutes with a Dremel. My guitar teacher did it for me -- I couldn't understand how he was going to route a channel, but then I realized that he actually intended just to Dremel a neat groove that could provide access.

    Some touch up with a black magic marker (I'm lazy) and putting the pickguard back on and she's all done. Indeed, with the weather changing again I recently made a small tweak of the truss rod, happily leaving the neck on!

    Talk soon
  5. bluemonk


    Dec 17, 2002
    I have a '54 RI (in pink paisley) that needs just a slight rod adjustment. I've been leaving it a bit high to avoid the whole neck removal. You have given me courage, Fireaarro!
  6. dlloyd

    dlloyd zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

    Apr 21, 2004
    You could chew up the slots in the screws or strip the wood, neither being "irreversable".

    Lubricate the screws a little before putting them back in.
  7. Here's a little trick I came up with for Fenders and others with this setup problem. I can do it in my shop because I have some fixtures that make it easy to clamp the body leaving the neck free to move. What I do is clamp the body so that the neckplate and neck are hanging out over space. You have to clamp the back of the body for this to work. After I take the tension off of the strings, I loosen the screws (bolts in my case :) ) and allow the headstock to swing down raising the butt end up just enough to allow me to crank the TR. Well, not "crank" but gently rotate it into position. Then I tighten the screws, retension the strings and check the relief. If you use a power screwdriver, you can do this pretty quickly.
  8. Robman


    Mar 19, 2004
    Sherman, Texas
    Hmmm... looking at the picture on Fender's website, you should be able to adjust the truss rod from the headstock. Unless there were a few made to where neck removal is necessary for truss rod adjustments.

  9. If it's a body-end adjustment, I have a wrench channel routed...under the pickguard. fast and easy, and you don't have to loosen squat.
  10. nivagues


    Jan 18, 2002
    >>>You could chew up the slots in the screws or strip the wood, neither being "irreversable".

    Replacing bolts after removal:

    Push the bolts down through the body holes until they meet the neck threads (NB the body holes aren't threaded). Turn the bolts anti-clock wise (about 1/4 turn), with a very slight down pressure, until you hear a little popping noise. This puts the bolts back into the existing threads.

    As you tighten, support the bottom of the driver shaft with your other hand to prevent it from slipping. Better still, put a small rag around the shaft at the same time.