Its been a while since I have done a build thread, Specs, Body: Poplar 2 piece body Neck: Maple neck, rosewood fretboard, MOP block inlays (Allparts unfinished neck) Pickups: Super 55 Jazzbass pickups Electronics: Undecided on if this will be active or passive. Hardware: Hipshot B bridge, Ultralite Tuners all black. Finish: Silver flake on a silver base. The body blank is in clamps at the moment, pics to come in the next update.
I'm in. . . .been waiting for you to build, don't think you have since I have been here, at least not a bass. Hard to go wrong with the Super 55's you recommended them and then I bought one and it IS good. OK, so now we are just waiting for the glue to dry.
Cleaning up the blank in the drum sander Poplar isn't the prettiest wood in the world, but it works easily and finishes well. Neck pocket cut. I routed a dummy pocket in the unused part of the blank to test the fit. Roughed out the body on the band saw then cut it to size with a flush trim bit. Its time to invest in a new but because this one is dull. I'm going to invest in a down cut spiral flush trim. Whoops The broken piece broke cleanly and was easily glued back in place It doesn't get much better than this
It needed 137 stitches but it healed nicely I need to straighten some waves out of the sides, then tomorrow I will rout the pickups and do the round over.
At the risk of sounding like a broken record, (I've made this case before).... just get that dull bit sharpened!! If it's just a cheap straight flute, I understand you may not want to go to the trouble of taking it to a sharpening company, (but they can make that kind good as new for about $10) But when the time comes that the spiral bit you invest in gets dull....It is so worth looking into! A solid carbide spiral (especially a nice 3 flute) is going to set you back well over $100....and they can sharpen those for around $20 Now you might say..."If I get a flush-cut bit sharpened it won't cut perfectly flush any more"!.....And you'd be correct. It will cut a few thousandths proud of the template...depending upon how much carbide they had to remove to make it right. (if there are any chips that need ground out, etc...) BUT while that may be problematic for crucial things like neck pockets....it will still work fine for cutting out body shapes! I'd keep a good flush bit for pickup & neck pockets only, that will stay sharp a long time with such limited use. AND another one that can be sharpened several times for all other heavy cutting tasks. If anyone is about to throw away a bit just because it is dull....and don't want to get it sharpened... please...send it to me! I'll pay for shipping
How do you like that drum sander? What grit are you running? Is it 110V or 220V ? About how much can you take on a single pass?...I mean...like if your body blank had a joint with about 1/64" to 1/32" un-even lip...,could you flush it up in a single pass? or a couple passes? I'm curious because have used a drum sander before that was an old P.O.S. and it bogged down & was very un effective. But since the company I work for moved to the new location...the owner will not let me hook up the wide belt sander, due to the fact that that piece of equipment would require a $20,000 "spark detector" to be installed in the exhaust system to be in compliance & pass inspection! That was my favorite machine, as I could make any thickness veneer / accent laminate etc.. that I desired. Since wide belt sanders are so expensive, I was considering purchasing a drum sander for myself, as a next best option.
This particular bit is not really worth getting sharpened. After I get the spiral bit I will definitely be sending it off for a sharpening as needed. This one is just an inexpensive Wood River (Woodcraft house brand) 2" flush trim. I definitely got my moneys worth out of it This one has a 1.5hp 120v motor on it, and requires pretty light passes. I could level off a 1/64" lip in one pass, but 1/32" would be pushing it. Right now I am running 120 grit, which is a pretty good all around grit for the machine. I need to replace the feet table belt, and do some shimming on the table, and I may step up to a 3 hp motor. I had a Delta machine that was much more powerful that could take a pretty heavy pass, but the height adjustment was junk, and parts are not available for it. I may redesign the mechanism and get that machine running again.
I started working on routing the pickup cavities this morning. Started with layout and location Removed most of the material with a forstner bit Then routed it with 1/2" pattern bit, and cleaned up the corners with a 3/16" pattern bit on my trim router These little bits do a great job for cleaning up the corners of a rout It should have been rinse and repeat for the bridge pickup cavity, but my little router bit cut its last. So I am at a stand still until a replacement comes in.
I typically am not a huge fan of single cut body styles.... but I really like this shape. It has a bit of "flare" and style to it while retaining a conservativeness so it isn't over the top weird. A nice aesthetic balance. Nice work!
Thanks buddy, I knew I hit a home run with this model the first time I drew it up. Its a combination of a Tele and Jazz bass so it has the offset contour of a Jazz with a tele upper horn. Its a classic Fender look without being anything that has really been done before.
Just when you get it a groove. . .snap. I bought one of those after we talked about it (tiny router bit) I'm hoping I can learn some finesse techniques as I continue to learn. Hopefully most if my stuff is too new to suffer breakage. . . .never say never. It won't hold you back much I am sure.
Key is to use the little bits as Hopkins shows above, remove all the material you can with a beefier bit. Then clean up the corners with the little guy.