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Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by chanson, Dec 5, 2019.
Looks like it needs a bath.
I really do love Ibanez basses but I do wonder about some of their wood grain choices. It really does look dirty and not in an adult fun way...
For those in the Netherlands : BAX music has got the 6-string in stock.
I find it interesting that they don't release all of the options everywhere. I don't believe there is a 4 or 6 string in the US yet, seems to only be the 5'ers here.
Those Ibanez EHB1005MS Bass Models Should Arrive Soon
Reverb has them Posted over there...
Thanks for the review, I have a few follow up questions.
What do you mean by the truss rod was slack, it didn't turn in one direction? By turning the allen key towards the lower strings, I added upbow to the neck. I was able to remove the buzz with somewhere between 1/4-1/2 turn. I thought adding upbow was the result of loosing truss rods, which is why I said my truss rod was maxed out, not completely slack.
When you found the truss rod was totally slack, which direction was it able to move, and what effect did that have on the neck? (I found the truss rod in my bass acted the opposite of the directions the instrument came with, moving the wrench towards the lower strings increased backbow)
You advised me to "send that thing back" due to my concerns about the truss rod. Does your experience on your personal bass and years of doing setups change your assessment?
When I say my truss rod was totally slack when it arrived, I mean it was completely loosened. The only way I could have added more up-bow would have been to install higher tension strings. With the truss rod completely loosened it was at about the maximum amount of up-bow that I like. It actually played better when I engaged the truss rod (tightened it), and straightened the neck a touch.
So, this wasn't an issue for me. But, I've encountered players that dig in so hard that they like a lot more up-bow than I like. This type of player would have had no choice but to up the string tension, if their intention was to increase up-bow. Players that dig in hard tend to like higher tension strings anyway,...so, also probably not an issue for them.
If you are looking at the truss nut, clockwise "tightens" and straightens the neck (back-bow). When you turn it counter-clockwise it "loosens", and increases up-bow.
Once the truss rod is totally loosened (i.e. "slack"), you are indeed maxed out, in terms of increasing up-bow (unless you increase string tension). My bass arrived in that condition,....totally loosened truss rod,....no more up-bow possible, unless I changed the strings. But, if you have a "normal" right hand attack, you definitely wouldn't have wanted more up-bow. Most players would have wanted less. So, this would not have been an issue for most players.
I don't think this is a bad neck, in any way. I think the neck is my favorite part of the instrument (so far, I am not bonding with the Nordstrand pickups). I think the carbon fiber rods make the neck extremely stiff, which results in a truss rod that doesn't give you much response. But, the carbon fiber rods, the 9 piece neck and the truss rod are keeping the neck in the "set-up sweet spot",....so you don't need the truss rod to "move" the neck much.
The only exception would be if you are a player that requires a lot of up-bow,...or perhaps if you are a player that uses strings with really abnormal tension. It might be fine with abnormal tension strings. But, I'd need to set it up with them to be sure.
Hopefully this all makes sense. It's kinda hard to articulate these things.
Ended up returning my EHB1005MS due to the unwanted extra resonance issue, unfortunately. Surprisingly, it also was too small for my tiny torso and I couldn't get comfortable wearing a strap with it because all the straps I tried with it were too long to get it in the high position I like to play in. It still played really well and sounds awesome, and I would whole-heartedly recommend it for anyone else. Just not the right fit for me. It did set me up to transition rather easily to my new Dingwall though!
I still love mine, and it's only getting better for me. I've never been able to get action so low with clarity. I dislike the barts without effects, however with effects I can't really find any complaints. I can make them growl, but the natural darkness helps retain the bottom end. I will go ahead and leave them alone until the warranty runs out before install the obp3 i grabbed for it. That actually will end up in my schecter soon.
Thanks again for the reply and info. I realized i had a typo in previous post, turning the wrench towards the lower strings increased upbow, which is what I wanted to reduce buzzing.
If I understand correctly, you are saying you could only add backbow, while I could only add upbow.
I think I have a heavier touch, I like to dig in and also play upright. I plan on using this bass for heavier and possibly detuned music, so I may end up putting higher tension strings. Anyway, I'll try to make an appointment to take it to my tech before my trial period ends.
Truss rod concerns aside, I want to reiterate for anyone else reading that I really like this bass, it plays nicely and sounds better than expected. I think due to my history with G&L's I'm extra weary of potential truss rod issues, but I'm not an experienced tech.
Did you try changing the strings to see if that resolved the resonance issue?
Changed strings twice, once to D'addario ProSteels and then to EB Cobalt flats. I also had some issues with my bridge saddles (posted earlier in the thread) which prevented me from adjusting string spacing.
So weird that ours were shipped with the opposite extremes.
I wonder if there's truss rod problem consistency between the two necks 1000 and 1500 series.
I'm in Iowa and have my 1500
Love it! No truss rod issues here.
If there's a difference it's likely because of the neck woods. Wenge is something around 40% stiffer than hard maple is. It's unusually hit and miss though, I have to wonder what other factors play in to this..
Re. the truss rod issues mentioned, let me see if I've got this right:
The necks seem to be very stiff, so the truss rods don't move them all that much.
Some people might want more relief in the neck than it has with the truss rod totally slack.
Re. the first point, I generally consider a strong, stiff neck to be a good thing for a bass. Are the truss rods used weak, unreliable, or under-spec-ed on top of that? Too, while I claim no special expertise here, I've been told by someone I consider a reliable source not to rely on the truss rod to move the neck (at least when tightening/increasing tension on it -- loosening is different), but only to hold it in place when it's where it needs to be -- that is, don't crank it a half turn tighter, under full string tension without either helping the adjustment along carefully with your hand or slackening the strings a good deal and then tuning back up.
Re. the second point, are the truss rods in these not two-way? Should they not be able to adjust in both directions from "slack"? (It is also my understanding that one would not want to leave a truss rod completely slack inside a neck, even if the adjustment is fine, but to tighten, in either direction, it at least to the point of being snug, to reduce the potential for rattles -- I could be wrong about this, though.)
Truss rods are mostly double action so they can bend both ways
If the neck doesn’t have enough curvature when the truss rod is totally lose keep going in the same direction and it will tighten up and bend the neck forward
This unless there is an issue or the truss is single action which would be non sense
They don't appear to be bi-flex truss rods. I couldn't find any information from Ibanez, stating one way or the other. But, judging from mine, unless these have an abnormally large neutral position, they aren't bi-flex.
Bi-flex truss rods aren't the standard. They weren't even around until the 1980's, and while more common than they once were, single action truss rods are still more common.
EDIT: This is my first Ibanez bass, and I haven't worked on a ton of them. So, if bi-flex truss rods are the norm with Ibanez basses, maybe an Ibanez enthusiast can let us know.
RE: point 1:
When doing any straightening of the neck, I always first remove string tension. If I am loosening the truss rod, I usually won't bother. I've seen many guys crank the truss both ways, without taking tension off the neck. But I was taught (by someone very respected), to remove string tension when tightening the truss rod.
RE: point 2:
On the EHB1500 the truss rod does not appear to be bi-flex. I couldn't find any information from Ibanez to confirm the type of rod. I didn't totally remove to truss nut to confirm, but if it is a bi-flex rod, it has the biggest neutral position that I've ever experienced.