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New jacks on speaker cab

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by SwamiRob, Apr 13, 2009.

  1. I've got a cab with a couple of naff broken jacks on that need replacing and was just wondering about some of the safety elements of soldering in some new ones. I have 2 spare jacks lying about, one is 6 pin and the other is 4, both jacks on the cab are only using 2 so I was wondering whether I need to make sure that the other pins are isolated/removed or will it not matter if they are not soldered to anything?
  2. Bump!
  3. BassmanPaul

    BassmanPaul Gold Supporting Member

    Aug 25, 2007
    Toronto Ontario Canada
    Replace them with new Neutrik or switchcraft sockets. Don't bother with jacks that you have "lying around". If you are going to repair something do it right the first time and with the proper high quality parts.

    You could think about replacing them with NL4 speakons wired +1 and -1.

  4. Probably a better idea, I can't really go with the Speakons however cos I'm planning on selling the thing when I know it's all up to standard again. It's one of those Traces with the XLR ins too so XLR/Speakon inputs would obviously be a bit irritating.

    On the topic of safety have I got anything to worry about as long as everything is soldered well? Can't imagine that current would jump to a pin that isn't wired to anything and thus has nowhere for the signal to travel, but I just wanted to play it safe by asking first.
  5. MIJ-VI

    MIJ-VI Banned Supporting Member

    Jan 12, 2009
    Hi SwamiRob.

    Can't you solder the new jacks in the same way the old ones were wired, and then check for a possible open or short circuit with a multimeter before testing your refurbished cab with an amp?

    EDIT: The battery test (touching the contacts of a 9 volt battery to the tip & sleeve of a speaker cable plugged into your cabinet) is a good further verification of cab wiring continuity/speaker function.
  6. Yeah I guess a millimetre would do the trick, was just worried about what might happen with high current going through the thing.
  7. MIJ-VI

    MIJ-VI Banned Supporting Member

    Jan 12, 2009
    If you're good at soldering things should be OK.

    Check your amp's manual to confirm whether or not it has short circuit protection (if it's a solid state head, an open circuit won't damage these).

    If your amp is a tube head, then short and open circuits are a no-no.
  8. It's for a cab not an amp thankfully, I wouldn't dare do it myself if it were an amp head that needed soldering :meh:

    The connections are very straightforward though, just 2 jacks connected to each end of the circuit connected together by 2 wires so you can link another cab through it so that won't be a problem. Don't quite get how that works out cos I thought electric always took the path of least resistance and going all the way through another speaker and back doesn't seem like the easiest route. Obviously something makes it work out but at face value it's kinda strange.
  9. MIJ-VI

    MIJ-VI Banned Supporting Member

    Jan 12, 2009
    I mentioned your amp head vis a vis confirming it's short circuit protection capability, as a means of establishing parameters for a possible (but unlikely) unplanned-for-event-profile ie: you inadvertently solder a short circuit in your cab's new input jacks.

    What is the make & model of your amp's head, and the model of your Trace-Elliot cab? (For the sake of technological exactitude/visualizing & researching what's 'on the bench'.)
  10. Ah ok I get you, the cab in question is a pre-reissue Trace Elliot 1518 (not sure whether it's 80's or 90's if someone can find me a website/TB member etc that might be able to identify the number that'd be great) and I'll be testing it with a Laney RB4H, which is essentially the same as the newer RB9 of which the manual is here: http://www.laney.co.uk/manuals/RB9 Manual - 2006 - Issue 1.pdf

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