Hello everyone. I have a bass with a gloss finish over trans-orange, and I'm kind of sick of it. I can afford for this bass to be out of action for a while, so I was considering a new paint job. I'd like to keep the sides (and back) of the gloss finish in tact, because they are a nice deep red that I like. For the top, I have a paint job in mind that kind of has to be matte. This would be my first time working with bass finishing, but not with detailed painting in general. My questions: 1.) How would I transition from matte to gloss finish? 2.) How do you suggest I seal the matte paint? 3.) If I chose to apply a decal or sticker of some kind (I know, it sounds cheezy) rather than hand paint something, would the same sealant for '2' be safe to use over it? 4.) Is any-old-paint okay to use? (Spray-paint, oils, etc.) Or, if you could point me in the direction of an appropriate thread, I would apprieciate that too. I perhaps searched using the wrong key words. Thanks everyone!
Have you used this? I'm not discounting it, but it looks like one of those real estate flipping ads on late nights. I'm digging that camo Les Paul.
I originally saw this from other posts of people who have done this. Google 'paint your onw guitar' and you will find a lot of info on this subject.
I'd approach your proposed finish like an automobile: prep, prime, color, gloss clear-coat. After the clearcoat has had adequate time to cure, you can rub out the finish to any sheen level you desire, whether matte, satin, semi-gloss, gloss, or a mirror finish. Here's a quote: "How Sheen is Created "Scratches can produce a flat, satin, semi-gloss, or gloss sheen by how they reflect light. On a perfect gloss surface, light is reflected to your eye at the same angle that it strikes the surface. In technical terms this means that gloss is created when the angle of incidence is equal to the angle of reflectance. When scratches are put on the surface and they are larger than the wavelength of visible light- they will diffuse light away from the eye. Scratches left by 400 grit result in a very dull surface. From 400-1000 a flat to satin surface is the result. Above 1500 a semi-gloss surface results. When the width of the scratch is smaller than the frequency of visible light (as in fine polishing) the surface starts to appear glossy. "Interestingly, if you look at a satin surface from a low angle (like a dining table top from a kneeling position) it will start to appear glossy. That's because you're seeing less diffused light." Here's a link to the entire tutorial on rubbing-out a finish: http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/rubbingout.htm
Now that's an approach I can understand. Thanks. Anybody have an idea to preserve the edge of the gloss coat? Or should I really just forget it, and remove all of it? I don't know if overlapping clear coats would stick.
If you want to create a visual line of demarcation without creating a perceptible ridge, you can mask off the area you'd like to remain unchanged, and feather the border with fine abrasive when you're prepping to shoot the clear coat. If you're concerned about successive coats sticking to one another, clean and degrease, then apply a coat of de-waxed shellac, which allows different finishes to successfully "hold hands" with one another.