Dismiss Notice

Psst... Ready to join TalkBass and start posting, make new friends, sell your gear, and more?  Register your free account in 30 seconds.

Nuts and Bolts...

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by JP Basses, May 15, 2003.


  1. JP Basses

    JP Basses

    Mar 22, 2002
    Paris FRANCE
    Hi all,

    I'm currently prototyping and planning a small number of design evolutions.

    One of them is that after many inquiries about it, I'm considering offering a bolt-on version of the Plume basses versus my usual set-neck constuction.

    I would really like to know what you people like or dislike about your bolt-on necked basses in terms of:
    - looks
    - comfort
    - design...

    Does you bass uses wood screws or threaded inserts for attaching the neck? How many screws ?(Note that I don't want to follow my friend Jens Ritter's route uh...;))

    Please feel free to SHOW your neck joint here by posting pictures!!


    Thanks in advance for your help!

    Peace, JP
     
  2. BoiNtC

    BoiNtC

    Nov 25, 2002
    NYC, USA
    I always had a thing for bolt ons because if I ever busted the neck (which my friend did to his Les Paul) you could just get a new one (not in my friend's case). I personally think the Fender plate with 4 screws isn't a bad design, personally speaking I don't like the '75 ri/Marcus Miller bass design (3 bolt) seems a bit flimsy, some of the 6 bolts seems nice, hey if it isn't broke don't fix it! :p but then again I don't think the plate looks good on non-Fenders, but the way the Celinders/Lakland does the 4bolt placement looks nice, to me anything more is a bit excessive but then again I've seen some basses with 6bolts that I've liked.
    ~This is just my opinion but I guess you were looking for opinions
     
  3. JP Basses

    JP Basses

    Mar 22, 2002
    Paris FRANCE
    just a little bump!!

    JP
     
  4. Hategear

    Hategear Workin' hard at hardly workin'.

    Apr 6, 2001
    Appleton, Swissconsin
    Bolt on necks.

    Also, I like threaded inserts -- everywhere!
     
  5. Aram

    Aram

    Feb 2, 2003
    New York, NY
    Hi JP,

    For construction, I like Chris Stambaugh's method (even though I don't own a Stambaugh) as posted on his website, www.stambaughdesigns.com :

    "To remove the weakness of the neck joint inherent in most bolt-ons, the necks are hand machined to a press-fit tolerance: this means that you can pick up the instrument by the neck without attaching the screws. Also, the screws used are much thicker than standard, running all the way up to the fretboard."

    To me that sounds like it would yield the tightest neck joint.

    -Aram
     
  6. odie

    odie Supporting Member

    Threaded inserts dont like plates . Neck joint contour. I prefer the way the five bolts necks are compared to the 4 bolts. Not sure why, maybe its something in the design.
     
  7. I like bolt-ons because it is easier, for me at least, to be able to remove the neck to do maintenence like polishing or levelling frets and you can always buy a new neck if a bad neck can't be repaired. I have always owned Fender-style bolt-ons without threaded inserts although threaded inserts seem like a great idea. As long as the neck fits tightly into the pocket, I think that the sustain will be just fine and the neck will be stable and "wiggle-free." I have only owned a couple of set necked basses (Gibsons) and I've never owned a neck-through.
     
  8. Brendan

    Brendan

    Jun 18, 2000
    Austin, TX
    I like Conklin's aproach to bold ons, wherein the heel is not squared off and abrupt, but tapers into the neck, so it jsut gets thicker as it goes toward the body, so there's no "stop" at the end base of the neck.

    Other than that... threaded inserts, a neck joint that has full access to the upper frets, and plentiful thick bolts. Three screws on a G&L neck scare me on some basic level. While 5 huge bolts on my ATK make my feel a bit safer.
     
  9. hujo

    hujo

    Apr 18, 2001
    Stockholm, Sweden
    I really don't see the need for more than four bolts, but the full unlimited acces to all frets is very important, and I also like necks that go deep in the body.. Maybe it it's good for sound, but it sure makes having deep cutaways easier.
     
  10. Fuzzbass

    Fuzzbass P5 with overdrive Supporting Member

    I defintely prefer tapered heels on my bolt-ons. The most comfortable by far is the one on my MTD 535:
    [​IMG]
     
  11. JP Basses

    JP Basses

    Mar 22, 2002
    Paris FRANCE
    thanks a ton guys!! Keep the coments coming...

    And PICS are welcome!! :D

    Peace, JP
     
  12. Gard

    Gard Commercial User

    Mar 31, 2000
    Greensboro, NC, USA
    General Manager, Roscoe Guitars
    I agree with most of y'all, threaded inserts are definitely the way to go.

    For a very good bolt-on, check out the Elrick basses. I wish I could post a good pic, but don't have one handy right now...but I got a couple of 'em within arm's reach at work!

    :D

    Full access all the way to the 24th fret, no sweat. Very well thought-out.
     
  13. i like the way war wick does it.
     
  14. mark beem

    mark beem Gold Supporting Member

    Jul 20, 2001
    New Hope, Alabama
    Ditto!!
     
  15. odie

    odie Supporting Member

    as far as necks go I really like the MTD's neck. Even the cheap Kingston neck is very comfortable. I like the flatter fingerboard and wide assymetrical neck.

    I wish my Modulus had the proportions of a MTD neck. Then it would be perfect!!
     
  16. geshel

    geshel

    Oct 2, 2001
    Seattle
    No plates!
    Inserts good!

    This one works for me! :D

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Suburban

    Suburban

    Jan 15, 2001
    lower mid Sweden
    Bolt-on bodies are a mess, tonally.
    If you do it as above, you will be close to the quality of a set joint, but have the (possible) pros of ability to remove the neck.

    Why a mess? Because of the tolerances; and more, because of the pull force and torque capacity!
    Actually, with zero gaps, you will need only one screw, but you need it to be a close to the head as possible. Which is incompatible with a nice heel.

    That is where you need to do some serious thinking, JP: how do you want your heel to be?
    Then put two screws as close as possible to the end of the body, and one or two some 50 mm further in.

    Use as tight fit as you can manage in the neck pocket - ferrule washers on the body surface - and thread inserts in the neck, preferably the ones with a flange, that you place between the fingerboard and the core (yes, you drill the holes and put the nut in, then you glue the borad on).
     
  18. JP Basses

    JP Basses

    Mar 22, 2002
    Paris FRANCE
    Thanks Geshel...could you please take a close picture of the heel? I mean, is there a significant change in the neck thickness when entering into the body? Looks like there is no heel thickness on the pic you provided..

    JP
     
  19. JP Basses

    JP Basses

    Mar 22, 2002
    Paris FRANCE
    The frist bass I built was a bolt on with T nuts under the board :D

    I'm leaning towards a carved heel for sure and 4 or 5 screws.

    Peace, JP
     
  20. geshel

    geshel

    Oct 2, 2001
    Seattle
    Here ya go JP

    [​IMG]

    No taper to speak of. It's definitely more restrictive than my neck-through, but really I can't play up there on fretless anyway :)