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Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by rummonkey, Aug 31, 2015.
I feel so special.
Sometimes it's not such a great deal to be special! The good news is that these things occasionally happen in every product line and at least Mesa is right up front and totally transparent about it while standing 100% behind their warranty.
I've not been so lucky with some other commercial products with other big name companies where I was the special guy.
You don't have to tell me this, they've already stepped up with both transparency and support.
I hear you. I just wish every company would be this forthcoming and then do the responsible thing. Even though it's a pain and bit disappointing to have a problem, there is something reassuring about folks wanting to make it right without needing to have their arm twisted.
Indeed. They are the companies like the loser that stole my daughters LOCKED mike at the bike rack today. I mean, most middle aged women carry bolt cutters right?
Can't decide on Track-Loc placement on my 212... I may be over-thinking this Probably last one is best as it re-uses the rubber foot holes...
imo 2 or 4 seems ok
edit: meant to say 2 or 5
The further you place the wheels towards the middle, the easier it will be to topple over. Spread them out as far from each other as possible for maximum stability.
Number 5 looks like the only option...
The falling cab has happened to me...cough..Jim Bergantino/Sadowsky
Yes, that's why I'm looking at all the different placement options.
Maybe trim the corner pieces to allow for max separation between casters. Maybe you can reuse the corer holes (I do t think so but maybe). Also, if you sell the cab (blasphemy!) you can just get 4 replacement corners to make it normal… A toppled cab makes for sad musicians.
You could go with a do-no-harm platform solution. I love mine. Very stable. The larger rubber wheels are smooth rolling. Originally made for a Walkabout Scout.....
This is the route I went. I simply made a 4-wheel tray that an SW115 sits in. I stack 2 115s on it and strap them together. I had LeCover make a cover that fits over the entire stack. It goes in and out easily of my SUV, a trailer or truck, or in a bus bay. Occasionally, I’ll unstrap the stack and use only one cab.
These pics of the track wheels are intriguing, though. I’ll be looking into them.
Caster-boards are common in the pro audio industry on speakers where wheels typically rattle in subs, though casters are generally not placed on the bottom of subs because we don’t want them to move around on their own. They are usually used on the face protection board and the subs roll face down, or stacked on a caster board.
I think #5 is the most practical but I wouldn’t worry about the existing holes.
Be sure you use the proper recessed hardware, and I really recommend T-nuts rather than threading directly into the wood.
Here's my update on trying out the Diamond comp with my TT800. Put it on my board, plugged everything in, no light, and no signal will pass through. Tried different cables (including power cable) which I know to work. Nothing. It's DOA. I hope the seller is fair. I think it's a sign that I really don't need a compressor with this amp.
Had similar experience with diamond.
Apparently jack is slightly different.
Had to get factory diamond wall wart.
Yikes. I don't want a dang wall wart.
Diamond will work with any power supply but on the full size model the power jack is inverted. Diamond supplies new comps with a power phase inverter cable. And they seem to work best with 18V.
The Diamond Bass Comp Jr has the standard plug. I waited for one of those to show up because I didn't want the hassle of an extra power supply either. I run mine off an 18v port from my CS6.
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