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Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by smperry, Apr 15, 2014.
Nice, makes me wish I had gotten the sunburst...it was a toss up and I decided on the flat walnut.
For me, it was a toss-up between flat walnut or root beer metallic.
I like root beer...
Here's my flat walnut...with D'addario black nylon wounds.
I wish those colors were available when I ordered mine.
Well... Actually, I really like Pearl.
I just want all of them.
Ubassdanno, are they ETB92s ?
I'm considering buying a Mikro to learn bass with less impact of a longer scale.
I first wanted to go with 5-string version (GSRM25), but it went out of stock where I planned to buy it. Then the same happened to 4-string versions (GSRM20). So now I have time to carefully choose till they are back in stock
I've tried searching for a comparison of 4- and 5-strings, but failed to find one.
Is there a big difference in weight between GSRM20 and GSRM25?
Is GSRM25 balanced well, so its head doesn't nod?
Are there any string sets suitable for GSRM25 that will allow to string it for EADGB/EADGC? Looks like the easiest option is to have 4-string set + a single string of matching gauge.
Is there any difference in sound (as pickups look different) of GSRM20 and GSRM25?
Any other considerations?
I've got ETB92s on my fretless MiKro- they're good strings.
4 string = 19mm bridge string spacing
5 string = 16.5mm
I bought one of these to carry when I need to second my upright with something cheap and light. It came from the center that sells guitars and was in an unopened box. It has strings with the black silk at both ends. The setup was complete crap. The strings were lying on the frets and I had to slack the truss rod completely to get any clearance at all. Then the strings all buzzed at the first fret. The intonation was way off as well. I didn't have any washers so I flipped the springs to the back side of the bridge to get a rough idea. Now it plays ok for my purpose but I've only heard it through a cheap headphone amp. I wouldn't trust the adjustments to hold this way, though.
Everything else has good intonation now but the E is still 20 cents or so sharp. I'm going to replace the stock strings with Dunlop flats but now I'm wondering if I should even try that. My question is whether this intonation setup looks normal for MiKros or if there's a real problem with this one. My choices are: 1. Shorten the screws and the nipple for the saddle for the E string. 2. Move the bridge. 3. Replace the bridge. 4. Take it back and get a Mustang for a lot more money. I'm leaning toward 1 followed by 3.
I've had several Mikros and never had to resort to anything like that for intonation. Could it be the bridge on your Mikro is set a bit too close to the neck?
Maybe. I can take some measurements and post them tonight.
Mine needed very little adjustment...
Came in an unopened box from the friendly place for musician's...
Got mine from that sugary liquid online store... I don't think it was priced quite to the point where they do their free setup, but it did come in with pretty much everything (intonation, string height, etc.) set decently well. I haven't done a super-detailed check on it, but it's pretty close and playable. I'll try to remember to take a pic of the bridge tonight.
Maybe you got a lemon?
Your intonation won't hold with the springs like this.
Moving the bridge is a good idea if you are ok with the exposed holes.
If you have the tap to reopen the threads in the nipple and can reopen the threads after shortening both, that is also a good option, IF it will move the saddle enough for accurate intonation.
I replaced my bridge and had good results. Make sure the new bridge has more of a span for adjustment and it would be a plus if you can move it back a bit and it will still cover the original mounting holes.
To me, the only plus to going with the Mustang would be that it might retain more resale value, being (hopefully) useable without modification.
There is also the option of taking it back and letting them get you another Mikro. They are ultimately responsible for delivering a playable instrument to you. You don't have to settle for a non playable instrument.
Looking at where the saddles are sitting, I'd say yes.
That was the issue with mine.
See how all of his saddles are close to the top of the bridge?
That is due to the location of the bridge.
If this bridge was closer to the pups, the same issue would exist.
I'd take it back rather than modify, you should get a playable instrument...
Thanks for the pix, UbassDanno. It's cool your tape has tenths on it. But now I'm completely futzed. The length from the back of my bridge to the base of the neck is 9 3/32", which looks close to the pic, maybe even a little longer. The length from the nut to the 12th fret is 14 5/16". With the way it is set now, the length from the nut to the saddle for the G string is 28 15/16", which is 5/16" more than nominal. If it was at the spec, the saddle for the G string would be right about where it is in the first pic from UbassDanno. The frets up to 12 are slightly sharp, decreasing. The frets above 12 are slightly flat, increasing. The way I set this up is like I've done my Fenders for years. 1. Set the neck relief by fretting the 1st and 12th frets. Measure the clearance at the 9th fret and set for 0.010" to 0.020". Tighten the truss rod to reduce the clearance. Loosen to increase. (I had to loosen the truss rod completely to get around 0.013". That seems a little off to me.) 2. Rough set the string height to eliminate buzzing. 3. Set the intonation for the octave at the 12th fret. If the octave is sharp, lengthen the string. If it is flat, shorten the string. 4. Set the string height for playability. I suppose I could take it to a tech but I really want figure this out because it don't make no sense. Of course, it's entirely possible I'm thinking about this all wrong.
I’d recommend taking it back. I’ve had experience now with four Mikro 4’s (bought three for my 5th grade student band needs)...+ one of my students also purchased one (which I did the setup on) Not one has been that far off...