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Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by brotondo, Dec 5, 2016.
And so it begins...
Just received the new 10"cab and 12" cab. Docked the 800 in the 10 and placed it on top. Both provided cables reached. Nice provided covers with exterior pockets for extra stuff. Gigged Sat. night and was very impressed. Play in a rock 5 piece with 2 loud guitar players. Did not go through the PA and the Quilter kept up easily at about 50% volume. Ton of Tone! Everybody had positive comments on the sound/tone. Happy Camper with this set up!
Listed now at Thomann
I finally got to try out the InterBass at our rehearsal/jam session tonight. Normally, I use an orphaned Ampeg B15, circa '63 through a 2-10 and a 4-10. It holds it's own against 2 guitars, keys, drums, harmonica and vocals. The InterBass held up well, even though we couldn't scare up another speaker cable to reach the 4-10. So it ran at the claimed 33 watts into the 2-10 8 ohm box. Did it sound as good as the old Portaflex head? Of course not - nothing else does. It's a little weaker on the very low end of a 4 string, but only a little. But it does the upper mids a bit better. It was very impressive, all in all. It certainly held it's own. I'd have no qualms about bringing this little thing as a back up to gigs, provided there's FOH support.
I've only tried my Interbass through my Markbass 121HR so far but the bottom end seems very similar to the BB800 (with that excellent limiting going on) if not even stronger. I'd probably have to use a HPF live to make it possible to use the Deep control above halfway.
My preferred tone is with the Vintage cab sim on and the Deep and Woof controls about 1 o'clock and the Snap rolled off a bit. Gain about 3 o'clock with my basses.
I don't care much for headphone out as there are smaller devices for portability and practice. If they needed to have this, why not drop the line/headphone switch and just put headphone jack on the front and XLR out on the back?... It can't be that bad if all the other bass heads in the world are doing it like this
I can already think of all the times the sound technician is going to ask why on earth does my amp have a TRS out. (that can be sabotaged by the headphone switch btw...) Like really... why...?
I'm not sure if people understand that you could put a regular patch cable in there, TS, and plug that into the soundman's direct box. The sound men that I encounter always like to use their boxes anyway.
Yes we understands!
In the regular bands I play, we have a technical rider. I have a XLR waiting for me whatever setup I use. Because it's standard and up until now every setup has had a XLR out.
For me it would mean, from now on I'd have to specify our guy to send out a different rider every time I'm gonna use BB802 setup - which I usually might not know months before the gig. Of course the details could be changed later as well, but why the extra work? Why not make an amp with a XLR out? I can't think of a good reason.
And when I'm not with my regular band, 99,99999...% of the time the sound guy walks up with a XLR and asks where to plug it.
I hear you, and agree with most that an XLR and a separate HP jack is perfered. The solution may be deeper than just "throw an XLR in there". We dont know how the board is laid out and designed. To get the proper spacing on traces maybe there just was no space without a complete reengineering of the board? Maybe to utilize/clear out old stock (cases/framework/parts/etc), they had to stick with a similar design? And maybe (hopefully) eventually a reengineering will come along.
But to solve your rider problem you could always just get a balanced 1/4"—XLR adapter (either as an adapter or short cable) to carry with your BB800. I had the same problem when Acoustic Image ditched their (brilliant!) combo input jack for a balanced 1/4"—now I have the "Apple dongle effect"—and I have to carry around more little stuff and cables ....booo! But at least AI still offers an XLR DI ... yeah!
The design seems like swimming upstream to me. And all that hooha hanging out the front of the amp. Less peyote, more bass!
I can buy two TRS-XLR cables for £6 on amazon or eBay... shove them in the bag the quilter goes in and problem solved
Hey, why don't you install a XLR plug on your instrument and carry a XLR to female TS dongle with you.
cos my instruments aren’t giving a balanced signal
Well, I said female TS dongle...
Maybe I'm unique, when I get to a gig ,even with a supplied amp with xlr on it, there usually is a black direct box sitting on top with the output already connected to the bass amp input. Is this not common any more?
I don’t find it that common (maybe more common in the past).
I find that the sound guy has an XLR and expects to plug into the back of your amp.
And if your amp doesn’t have a DI, then they come up with a DI box.
I actually think a 1/4” balanced out would stump most sound guys... or at least make them think and work a little bit.
If I was to get the BB802, I would be adding an adapter cable to my gig bag.
Former BB800 owner and super fan here. A friend is asking me about getting one, and inquired as to whether it is safe at 2 ohms. I have read up on Pats official statement to the effect of: Its "safe" but users may encounter clipping at high volume levels".
Is that not true for any amp, that clipping may be encountered at high levels? Are we talking about a different kind of clipping? My friend is looking at a D800 vs a BB800 and my inherent sense from having used both amps is that at 2 ohms, the BB800 will deliver harder, based on its robustness in general. And as long as its "safe", would seem like the better option from a power/headroom standpoint.
So can anyone confirm theyve been using the BB800 happily at 2 ohms with good/safe results?
And does anyone have a direct suggestion for the D800 vs BB800 at a 2 ohm operating load, features and tone shaping notwithstanding?
thx, rock on.
Just ordered the Bassdock 1x12, can't wait
@J.Wolf --- I've been following the Quilter BB stuff for a while. My impression is that the amp is designed to safely go down to 4ohm. Sure you can use it at 2.6 or 2 and it probably works just fine... but it's not designed to do that.
Like one of those little spare tire on your car designed to go 35mph. Can you get on the highway and go 80 with one of those things? Sure. But, it's not designed for that.
For me personally, if I regularly used a 2ohm load, I would look for an amp that is specifically designed to do that just to avoid any problem.
It's all about your risk tolerance I guess, and factoring in your personal circumstances - how hard are you going to push the amp, how much do you understand about what you're asking of the amp, self control, etc.
Just like using 2500 watts with a cab that's rated for 700 watts. Not a problem if you know what you're doing, but get sloppy and it's pretty easy to blow your speakers.
There was a prototype quilter 1x10 cab on here for a while that had a 16ohm load. Cool. Running it at 16 would take the power down to like 200w - just about perfect for a single 10 speaker.