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OK, easy question. If both are 34" scale...

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by Kawai-chang, Mar 25, 2009.

  1. would I see any problem with replacing a 24 fret neck with one of less fret count?

  2. JTE

    JTE Supporting Member

    Mar 12, 2008
    Central Illinois, USA
    It all depends on how the neck is made. If the 24 fret neck's fingerboard goes all the way to the end of the neck (i.e., it's not an extension sticking out beyond the end of the neck), then it's got an inch or more length than a standard 21 or 22 fret neck. That of course means that the nut won't be 34" from the bridge, but closer to 35" or 36".

  3. Hi.

    ^+1. The number of frets, or the lenght of the neck, doesn't have necessarily anything to do with the scale lenght.

    If the 12th fret is still on the halfway mark, You're most probably good to go, scale lenghtwise.

    You can always move the bridge to compensate, if you want to swap the neck for some reason and the numbers don't add up.

  4. Methinks I'll have to bust out the tape measure tonight.

    I THINK the neck is cut into the body a little more than a standard neck might be. If so, I would assume that it's an actuall 34" scale (nut to bridge). That taken into consideration, if I swapped a 22 fret, would that make it a short/medium scale? (Shortening the "actual" scale length) Or is my math all whack?
  5. No, it won't make it into a short scale, but it may make it impossible to intonate without moving the bridge back.
    The only thing that matters is: can you install the neck in a way that places the 12th fret 17" away from the bridge saddles?(half distance). In practice it ends up being more like 17 1/4 inches, btw.
  6. and as I'm thinking about it, wouldn't I have to move the bridge to achieve the right intonation?
  7. LOL. Beat me to the punch Dmusic
  8. More to it than just moving the bridge. Kicking the next out further may make the bass neck heavy. I would clamp the neck on or just use one screw and strap it on and see how it is. You can also play around with strap button position, but depending on body style, your options may be limited. On my explorer style P-Bass, I had a large (1/4" x 2 1/2 ") allen head screw drilled and tapped to allow me to attach a strap lock in the end. Then I drilled a hole into the body and screwed it in part way and adjusted the way the bass hung by how far in it was screwed in. This works for a minor correction. When I redid the bass recently with a new neck, I set the neck further into the body (about 1") and recut the lower cutout.

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