P-Squire Pickups?

Discussion in 'Pickups & Electronics [BG]' started by Applescruff, Jan 18, 2002.

  1. I am currently playing a Vantage 4-string and my Husband said that the pick-ups are really cheap. I am thinking about up-grading!
    I happen to have a busted up (someone really whacked it good). Fender Squire bass. I keep looking at it thinking it might be good for 'parts?' Any input about whether it might be worth the trouble to try these pick-ups from the squire or should I just toss this fender in the Bay and look for something else?
  2. I used to have a Squier P-bass. Key words being used to. The pickup in it was weak. It sounded very flat. It had very little output. I'd say steer away from it.
  3. notduane


    Nov 24, 2000

    Replacement P-type pups are available from a BUNCH of places...
    Seymour Duncan, Bartolini, EMG, DiMarzio, RioGrande, Aero...
    to name a few. And they're about the easiest to replace - no
    rocket science here (wiring diagram).

    You choice depends on the tone you're after, strings, etc.

    S/D's and DiMarzio's are readily available (IME), and usually run
    from ~$60 to $70.

    Here's a page from the S/D site to give you some idea of the
    differences in their 3 passive P replacements (Vintage, Hot,
    and ¼-Pounder) -- click.
  4. Suburban


    Jan 15, 2001
    lower mid Sweden
    Squiers are good or bad, rarely in between!
    If the woodwork is good, meaning solid neck, good fitting neckpocket etc, it's worth the effort to put in better pups. Perhaps not the top notch, because you will not get your money back if you sell.
  5. :( Suburban,

    At the risk of being found to not know much about guitars (in general), I don't know what the 'neck pocket' is! The neck looks straight and feels solid. Also, do you know if there is a code in the serial number that would tell me when this squier was made? It was made in Indonesia. The real problem with this bass is it was bashed real good/bad at the output jack. It at least needs some minor body work, epoxy repair and the output replaced.
    Thanks to this board I am learning lots of neat stuff!
  6. Notduane,

    I just checked out the link you posted with the wiring diagram. Now, I am really confused. This bass has the double-coil pups AND another pup below the double ones that is long and narrower? I started looking at Fender sites and cannot find another model that has this configuration. Written on the Head Stock is Squier P-Bass Special and then Standard series! From what I have seen on the net, it looks like this other pup might be the Jazz Bass Pup?

    Thanks for your help.
  7. Yup, a Standard Special (what ad exec came up with THAT one?)

    It has the P-style pups in the middle and a J-style at the bridge, with another control knob (pickup blend) And it's still fairly easy to replace pups on it. Just take off the pickguard, and trace all the wiring BEFORE you take anything off. I would go with Duncan pups, but that's just personal taste.

    Rock on
  8. i have a squier and want 2 replace the Pups can i use the seymore duncan quarter-pounders? would they go right in? i def. agree that they are weak as anything and want 2 replace soon.
  9. notduane


    Nov 24, 2000
    D'oh! Sor-ry Ms. A :( . Here's the correct(?) diagram...

  10. Suburban


    Jan 15, 2001
    lower mid Sweden
    Ignorance has the advantage of being easily corrected, right? And no question should remain unasked!

    Neck pocket is the recess in the body, where the neck is set (and then screweed tight). The distance between the neck and the edges of the pocket should be very narrow, and even all around (even below!).

    Is the output jack placed in the wood? I'm not too familiar with the model you have, but Squier usually puts the output in the pickguard. This makes it very, very easy to replace, especially if you are changing pickups, and thus will remove the pickguard anyway. Buy a new pickguard, and a new output, when you buy your new pups.
    If the output is placed in the wood, it can still be repaired with some proper tools and great care. But perhaps not worth sending it to a luthier for repair...:rolleyes:
  11. Thanks Notduane,

    It wasn't your fault at all. I didn't realize I was describing the wrong instrument until I saw the wiring link you sent first. So, your time was valuable in helping me see my error. Thanks for the second diagram, this is the one I need.
  12. Suburban,

    Thanks for the mini-lesson. The neck pocket looks good to me, as you described how it should look. The output on this one is in the body. Your right that it really is not worth paying someone to fix:( . It's missing a chunk of wood about 3" long X the width of the body. I have checked into the price of a new body, $180.00 on the net, $400.00 from our local music store :eek:
    I think I'll hang on to it anyway and patch it for now! I have a Brother who is a shop teacher, maybe I could get him to make me a new body? Now, what kind of wood would I request? Hmmm, rosewood to match the fingerboard? Or something light to match the headstock? Decisions, decisions.

    Anyway, thanks again guys for all your help.
  13. Suburban


    Jan 15, 2001
    lower mid Sweden
    Makin' a new body, huh, Apples?
    Well, that makes for a big issue.
    May I suggest you make a search in TB for threads on woods? There are a few, almost as many as the issues to address, when chosing wood:D
    Discouraged? Don't be. The most imporant is the soundness (!), the quality of the chosen chunk(s). And that it is not too heavy on your shoulder!
  14. notduane


    Nov 24, 2000
    Warmoth has pretty good sections on different body and neck woods.

    Rosewood for a body? Yikes! Kinda' heavy. Stew-Mac probably has
    a stain that could make plywood look like burled maple :D.
  15. Okay notduane, where do the black wires go? I have been sitting here for 15 minutes scratching my head, and I still can't figure it out. Do they just dangle there, or so the connect with the output jack?

    Rock on
  16. Notduane,

    Thanks for those links about the bodies and necks. Lots of good information. I do think Brazilian Rosewood is beautiful, but you're right about the weight thing. I certainly don't want to add more! Now as for plywood.....hmmm, what kinda sound does one get from it:rolleyes: ?

    Thanks again all for the info.
  17. lo-end


    Jun 15, 2001
    Applescruff: I have the exact same bass as you. A Squier Standard Precision Bass Special, with the P/J pickups and the output jack in the wood. I dont think its worth it to modify the thing. If you add up the money you'd spend on mods and the money you could make selling the thing, there would be almost enough money for a mexican made Fender Precision. (Standard Series) I think you should take the $350 plunge and get a new Fender P Bass. It will play, sound, feel, and be much more valuble. This is what I should have done and not waste my money upgrading my Squier.
  18. frankencow150

    frankencow150 Guest

    Oct 17, 2001
    Go buy some at a store,and they'll probably install them for you!
  19. notduane


    Nov 24, 2000
    :confused: hmm...Dunno. Never played a Danelectro :eek:.

    Ahh! Flame-age :p
  20. notduane


    Nov 24, 2000
    The little upside-down, triangular thingies? Those are grounds :D.

    If the pots are mounted in a METAL (read: conductive) control
    plate, the lugs indicated going to ground are usually bent back
    to contact the case of the pot and then soldered. The pot's case
    is electrically connected to the control plate by virtue of being
    physically mounted in it. Therefore, the control plate is "at" ground.

    If the pots are "through the body" (i.e., mounted in the wood), there
    should be a wire going from each pot's ground lug to the other - like
    a 'daisy chain' - terminating at the ground lug of the output jack.
    Don't forget the wire to the bridge ;). But don't get carried away...
    "ground loops" :eek::(.