Partially un-raveling top wrap to fit tuner

Brand and stringset?

 

Good Lord, Dude, buy a Fender!
Sheesh, no small wonder you're having problems.
Good Luck to you my brother.

 

I wouldn't try to unravel the string's outerwrap, I don't think the string going around the tuning peg will affect anything negatively, as long as you've got sufficient downward force on the bass' nut.

I'm not familiar with the bass you have, but if it's a bolt on neck, you can take the neck off and put a shim in the neck pocket. Normally a match book cover or business card will do the trick. That way you'll be able to adjust your G-string saddle again, should you switch to a non tapered set of strings.

 

The fortunate thing about TB is we have a breadth of members that can give articulate answers beyond "buy a Fender".

What's the scale length of this bass? As was mentioned, a shim could fix the low-g issue, but it could be as simple as using other strings.

 

Mixing string brands is a crap-shoot, with trial-and-error the expensive methodology. Many of my basses have a small amount of the big part around B and sometimes even E wrapped around their posts without breaking. I'd advise you to wrap around the post "from the top down" so that the earlier wraps hold the fat part tight against the bottom of the post and exert downward pressure on the nut, as suggested above. I find that's critical. I'd recommend you buy another B-string and try again. If you've already wrapped it as I suggested and it broke, then sure, try other brands/types, but maybe a whole new set. A neck-pocket shim could help, but make sure your truss rod is where it should be first, then check the saddles and intonation. Good luck and please keep us posted.

 

As TomB posted, mixing different brands of strings can be a crap shoot. I did a search to find out if F-Bass produces their strings in house, and from what I've read, they're very similar to LaBella Super Steps. Perhaps Bass Strings Online sells singles, and you can measure the length of the string, before the taper.

 

This is where knowing the winding length of strings on the Curbow Petite 5 is crucial, as that should address this issue and give the OP guidance to select strings.

Having the full diameter of the B string around the post isn't ideal, but I've done it a couple of times (on my Willcox Saber VL with the smaller Gotoh tuners) and it should be okay. I would definitely NOT try to unwind the string, as the final cover has a dual purpose; building up the gauge but also locking in the other wraps below it.

You CAN mix and match string sets; matching a stainless BEAD set with an exposed core stainless G won't be THAT hard. It will require a little more experimentation however.

 

But why buy anything but a Fender? They're all perfect and never have any issues from the factory. They certainly would never use a shim in a Fender.



My suggestion would be to try a new set of strings altogether instead of trying to mix and match a set. You may find something you love even more that also allows a proper string job. I know this may not be option for you though.

 

Really?

 

not knowing what your saddles look like ... can you deepen the groove .? or shave some material off the bottom of the saddle .. ??

does your bass require shorter gauge strings .. ?? 30 , 32 .... versus 34/35 scale lengths .. ??

i've had my low B's wrap a little bit around the tuner with no issues over the decades .. ?? is there some kind of rather sharp edge somewhere on the tuning peg .. ?? or bridge saddle . ?

 

Allowing the full-thickness wrap to hit the post is never the best-of-ideas...it can create all sorts of havoc in addition to premature breakage. You could slip a spacer over the B string before installing which would shift the winding length. What is the optimal winding length for that particular Curbow? Measure from the ballend to halfway between the nut and B tuner post.

Riis

 

That's what I was going to suggest if OP can't find a different set he likes with the right ball to taper length. Slip a ball or two clipped from an old set of strings over the B at the bridge end to move the taper to the right spot at the tuner end.

 

...just not so many balls that it moves the fat part of the string onto the saddle .

 

You'll find appropriately sized spacers at your local hardware store.

Riis

 

What's the issue with the Curbow?

Some are saying this 'works' for them (but some may be using fat tuner posts), but is a bad idea as it puts extra stress on the tuner and headstock (through less leverage), and string, and causes worse tuning stability and reduces tuning precision.
Your B probably broke due to having the full gauge around the tuner, this isn't even recommended for an E let alone a B.

We mean file the base of the saddle that contacts the bridge, not the roller.

Using spacers to shift the B string back (if it is enough of a shift while still having the tapered section on the saddle) is a good idea.
Looking at photos it looks like you have enough downforce at the nut, seems no need to wind the B unusually low on the post.