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Peavey Minx 110 - Disassembly / Repair

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by BirdMan1, Nov 14, 2012.

  1. Hello everyone! I have a little Peavey Minx 110 combo amp that's about 15 years old, and it has recently developed an issue with the input jack. I have to jiggle the cord around in the jack sometimes to get a connection (I've ruled out the cord). I understand this is somewhat common on these amps, as the jack is soldered directly to the PCB and connections can break if the cord get stepped on or yanked, etc.

    So I believe the input jack either needs to be resoldered to the board or replaced. I'm experienced in this sort of repair and feel confident doing it myself, but I just can't figure out how to disassemble the amp enclosure to get at the internals of the amplifier.

    I read somewhere about the front grill (mine is cloth) being held on with some industrial strength "velcro" material, but I don't want to just start prying at it in case I'm wrong. There are no obvious screws holding everything together.

    If someone can please guide me towards the proper way of disassembling these amps for service I would really appreciate it.

    Thanks in advance!
  2. I have the Minx 110, and moved it from the combo cab into its own rack.
    There are two long bolts that mount the chassis in the cab.
    Underneath the chassis is a speaker connector cable that goes down into the cab.

    It is a very easy removal.

    [ edit ]

    You do not have to pull the grille to remove the electronics chassis.
    Peavey uses velcro to retain the grill.
    Push a thin Allen wrench down between the grill and the cab.
    Turn 90 degrees so it pulls against the wood of the grill board.
    Break loose at the corners by pulling on the wrench with a pair of pliers.
  3. BbbyBld


    Oct 13, 2005
    Meridian, MS

    It is most likely a broken solder connection.
  4. Link to Minx-in-a-box

    Link to Minx guts

    In the upper left corner, you can (poorly) see the power switch assembly.
    The jack is in the upper right corner, not shown in this photo.
    I replaced a similar one on a Line6 Spider-III and can tell you this is a righteous PIA.
    A de-soldering station is mandatory for the Line6, don't know about the Minx.

    I have to replace the pots in mine, which may not be quite so annoying as the Line6 repair.
    You can buy the modular jacks online, but will have to dig for them.
    Full Compass is where I got mine.
  5. Thanks bgavin and others! It did come apart really easily like you said, I had figured it must be harder than it looked to disassemble but it wasn't. Just 2 screws on top, and 3 in the back holding the chassis in place.

    The problem was simply cracked solder connections as suspected. Just took a quick touch-up with the soldering iron plus some more solder and everything is working 100% now.

    I had emailed Peavey for help earlier and they also got back to me and also sent me the schematic for the Minx 110. PM me if you'd like a copy.

    Thanks again!
  6. alaskaleftybass

    alaskaleftybass Will Hanbury, Jr. Supporting Member

    Mar 21, 2012
    Sitka, Alaska
    OMG!!!! I can't believe I found someone who already did what I'm trying to do!!!! Out of curiosity, I pulled my Minx head out of the combo, and hooked it to a 410 cabinet. WOW it was loud and deep! Have you found yours to be quite adequate too?

    I imagine you drilled a 1/4" hole in the back and converted the speaker wires to a jack output?

    One last question. Would you mind sharing with me the dimensions you used to build the cab? I think the only thing I'll be doing differently is using a truck bed rubberized cover rather than the carpet. I have a blonde long haired dog and all my stuff looks like a blonde carpet lol..

    BTW Excellent job on the cab! :hyper:
  7. There are several versions of the Minx schematic.
    Mine is "Minx 110 '95".
    If you have a newer one, please PM for my email.

    The newer boxes will tolerate a 4 ohm load, and have an extension speaker jack on the back (IIRC).
    Mine is the older model, 8-ohm only.

    I bought a chassis cut tool that fits a standard Speakon jack.
    Size and space being what they are, I will probably change course and mount a standard 1/4" jack instead.

    The first 100 watts is what makes most of the noise, so the Minx can hold its own with decent speakers.
    Mine has scratchy pots, so it does not get used until repaired.
    I don't have dimensions anymore. Just a quickie, built to fit, allow 1/8" for carpet thickness.
    alaskaleftybass likes this.
  8. alaskaleftybass

    alaskaleftybass Will Hanbury, Jr. Supporting Member

    Mar 21, 2012
    Sitka, Alaska
    I measured the internal dimesions last night and I'm doing the same... a quickie box. I'll post pics when I'm done. I'm so surprised.. I thought I was the only one that would have such a crazy idea .. lol... and get this... I'm using a 410 Sunn Concert Lead cab and it sounds excellent! Thanks for the pics and information. BTW mine is a 1986 model, back when Peavey still used the big silver trim on the sides...
  9. I want to set up a joke photo with the Minx 110:
    Four T48 bass horns and four DR200, wired as an 8 ohm load.
    I figured this might be humorous.. driven by a Minx.
  10. BbbyBld


    Oct 13, 2005
    Meridian, MS
    Nice job bgavin!
  11. alaskaleftybass

    alaskaleftybass Will Hanbury, Jr. Supporting Member

    Mar 21, 2012
    Sitka, Alaska
    Who makes the DR200's?
  12. Bill FItzmaurice PA tops. the T48 horns are BFM designs as well.
  13. And thanks to Peavey for making a nice little amp.
    I understand service parts are available (pots and jacks) even after all these years.

    The old style circuit board is easy to service.