Post your G&L bass problems

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by Rafterman, Sep 4, 2001.

  1. i own an 80s G&L L-2000, and i love it to death.

    but we all have problems about only problem is the HUM that i get whenever i switch to active mode.

    does anyone else have this problem?

    i'm sure there is a way to get rid of it, though.

    Either by a copper shield job in the control cavity or foil or something. I don't know...
  2. Sorry, Rafterman, I cant help with your problem, but you said to post problems, so:
    My problem is I cant get a sound out of my L2500 that I really like.
    Solution: Sell it! I've replaced it with a Yamaha BBN5II, into which I put a Bartolini preamp, but the Bart was'nt happy working with the Yamaha pickups, so I've replaced it with a Seymour Duncan preamp. Perfect!
  3. gweimer


    Apr 6, 2000
    Columbus, OH
    The shielding issue with the early G&L basses is fairly common. The people over at should be able to help you. You're on the right track, though.
  4. My problem is that I can't wait to get mine out of the lay-away.:D
  5. Luis Fabara

    Luis Fabara

    Aug 13, 2000
    Ecuador (South America)
    Audio Pro - Ecuador
    My problem is that I dont have one.
  6. Marty, you have a BBN5II also? I've been raving about this bass since I bought it in June. It sounds really good by itself, but, I recently bought a Nathan East EQ from a fellow TB memeber, and it sounds even better now. Which Seymour pre amp did you buy? I almost can't imagine it sounding better than it does now. My Casady sounds better with the NE-1 too. Maybe I should quit while I'm ahead.

    Mike J.
  7. I have a similar problem. If only there were an easy solution. :)
  8. i bought my L-2000 used...and since it didn't come with any manual, i really don't know what the switches do (technically).

    can someone please explain the different positions of the switches and what they do to the sound?

    tell me everything i need to know about those switches.
  9. Rafterman,

    Do you have three?

    My L-2500 has three:

    1) First position toggle, forward=front pickup only, middle=both, back=bridge pickup only

    2) Pickup coils-series/parallel switch, I think forward is series, back is parallel

    3) First position toggle is active with treble boost, middle=active, back=passive

    A GREAT sounding bass
  10. are you serious??!?!

    i thought that the first switch (closest to the neck)
    controlled the neck pickup.

    the middle switch controlled the passive and active setting.

    and the switch closest to the bridge controlled the bridge pickup.

    where can i find the owners manual for a
    G&L L-2000???
  11. gweimer


    Apr 6, 2000
    Columbus, OH
    Go to and check out the technical section. There is a diagram of the L-2000 somewhere in there that should help. If not, ask someone there. You should get plenty of help.
  12. seamus


    Feb 8, 2001
    Here's the controls:

    What was posted above regarding the switches is correct. Also, you may notice that rolling off the treble or bass knobs will allow more mids to come through. Give it a try, see if you agree.

    For a growly J sound, try bridge/parallel/passive.

    For more of a P sound, try neck/series/active.

    A good all around rock sound that hits hard is middle/series/active or active+boost - can't go wrong with that one.
  13. craigb

    craigb Supporting Member

    I've had 3 G&L basses over time:

    2000 L-2000: no problems whatsoever, quiet, awesome, sorry I traded it (getting it back)

    ~'92 SB-1: surprising neck joint gap (no effect on the sound), quiet (one passive HB, how can you go wrong), #6 neck was too small for me, probably an employee bass (no serial number), long gone

    ~'94 Climax: in some locations (my study, bar with nasty neon problems) it was noisy in active mode while other locations (drummer's house for practice) it was perfectly quiet, #6 neck too small for me, gone

    wait, make it 4 although I only had that one for ~1 day:

    ?? L-1000: truss rod was maxxed out and rather than deal with that problem I returned it, didn't have it long enough to notice/worry about noise problems
  14. ohiobob227


    Aug 18, 2001
    Cloverdale, CA
    A couple of things:
    1) bassdr is right about the switches, and the knobs are, from neck to bridge, volume/treble/bass.
    2)the treble and bass knobs are not boost, as seamus posted. The only boost is a volume boost by switching to active, and the third position treble boost. The knobs are bass & treble cut knobs, as the pickups are designed with an excess of each, to be trimmed down to the player's liking.

    As far as problems go, I've got an 82/83 (end of 82 neck, early jan 83 body) L2000E that I'm absolutely in love with. Once I got the hang of the neck tilt & found a hex wrench that fit the truss rod, it's a breeze to set up. It's going to get a fret job sometime later this year, but after nearly 19 years that's to be expected. My main problem with it is that I've got 8 or 9 other basses just don't get played much anymore!

  15. EString


    Nov 20, 2000
    Los Altos, CA
    My problem is that my L-2000 and I can't conceive.

  16. SMG

    SMG Supporting Member

    Apr 17, 2000
    metro Detroit
    note that on the very early G&L 2000's the middle switch is not a series/parallel switch but actually a coil tap from early G&L promo catalog that I have

  17. well, now that I know the controls of my L-2000, i always get a HUM whenever i switch it to series.

    i also get a boost in volume whem i switch to series.

    but i think the cleanest tone comes from parallel.

    anyone agree?

    BTW...what happens in the bass when you switch it to parallel and series? what happens to the pickups and etc.?
  18. SMG

    SMG Supporting Member

    Apr 17, 2000
    metro Detroit
    The difference between series and parallel is the direction of the current through the pickup underneath the strings. In series mode, which is standard for humbucking pickups, the current runs through the first coil in one direction and then through the second coil in the opposite direction. In parallel mode, the the current is running through both coils in the same direction. It is normal for series mode to have higher output then parallel mode, and for parallel mode to be brighter then series mode. Actually parallel mode often sounds almost like a single coil without the hum.

    NOTE...if you have an early G&L 2000, then the switch IS NOT a series/parallel switch but rather a coil tap switch. when the coil is tapped, you will notice 1) a decress in volume, 2) a brighter tone, and 3) some hum as you are now operating with single coil pickups
  19. HeavyDuty

    HeavyDuty Supporting Curmudgeon Staff Member Gold Supporting Member

    Jun 26, 2000
    Suburban Chicago, IL
    Does this mean that you're still trying?