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Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by philthygeezer, Jan 7, 2004.
Just bought a body, looking for ideas!
Hello! Hello! Hello! Hello....
Wow. I must be the first man on TB to think of doing this...
um...I dont have one, but want some idea's??
Umm...do you want to make a modern sounding or vintage sounding bass???
Here is what I'd do... route for a EB-O pickup at the neck, a P-bass pickup in the usual spot and a stingray pickup at the bridge.
You'd be able to get Alot of sounds!
If anything I would go with an EBO or Dimarzio Model One and Model P combination. Same thing 74rickbass said, except I have a feeling the MM pickup would retract from the tone.
Why? it's one more tone in your arsenal... you could shut it off if you want.
To me, the P and the EBO are plenty of versatility...the MM would just be a chunk of wood missing.
i planed on making one like for my metal bass lol. i was going to use two jazz humbuckes not the ones that look like a single j, or two mm pickups.
thats exactally what my plan is for the sg i am thinking about building... white with red binding...
It doesn't quite work that way. The magnetic pull still affects the vibration of the strings. Shutting it off is almost the same as not having the pickup there at all, but not quite. Otherwise, you'd see a lot more basses (and guitars) with some really outrageous pickup configurations.
Well, thanks much for suggestions but I've already got the body routed. There's a MM at the bridge and a J in the front.
I'll put Barts of some sort in it, though I'm not sure about whether to go active or passive yet. Seems to me that Musicman pickups were meant to be active, but not sure.
Any suggestions on minimizing neck dive? I'm likely going with a Warwick-style peg head and ultra-light tuners for a start. The less wood and metal out at the end, the better.
eew, not the Gumby head!!!
Something as simple as a 1" movement of the rear strap button can do wonders to counteract neck dive. Your sorta stuck on the front button because there's not a long horn for attachment. IFRC the EB's had the front button mounted at the heel of the neck.
BTW, have you assembled this beast to see if there's any dive at all? I wouldn't just assume there is until it's assembled.
What Hambone said.
Also, because this body is a bolt-on, the neck "tab" sticks out farther than the upper horn does. You could always put a strap button on the end of the tab, if you've got a strap that's skinny enough at that end.
I haven't bought the neck yet. I'm going to order it once I'm done the body colour. If I wind up with a royal blue or deep walnut finish, I'm going to order a 3A bird's eye maple neck and fretboard with abalone dots. I also haven't ordered one yet because I'm toying with the idea of going fretless.
I think the Warmoth head would contribute to the 'flame motif' of the SG body. I'll Photoshop one together and find out.
Edited for anoying speling and to change Warwick to Warmoth.
I would go with a Gibson style headstock if I were you.
To get the traditional SG look...
I'll photoshop both and compare. I'm thinking that this bass should be a synthesis of old and new Ideas. If I can cure any neck dive by a tasteful change in style, (IE to a smaller peghead with lighter tuners) and a change in traiditional button placement, I'll do it. I want to improve on the the EB design as much as possible.
Rumour has it that the last EB-?, the SG-Z, was partly a sales flop due to neck dive, and I would like to avoid that or minimize it.
Incidentally, If I bought four left-hand ultralight Schallers and put two on the right side, what harm would it do? Are there any other special lightweight tuners on the market?
Use Hipshot Ultralites with 3/8" posts and Y keys. They fit the holes in our 2+2 necks and are 20% lighter than the GB7's they would replace. While Schaller BM lights are a tad lighter, you'd have to ream the holes out quite a bit to get them to fit.