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powder coating

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by pkr2, Apr 22, 2002.


  1. pkr2

    pkr2

    Apr 28, 2000
    coastal N.C.
    I've just left the Eastwood site and found a couple of bits of info.

    Concerning the oven temp: the powder has to be cured at 400 degrees. Probably too hot for wood, definitely too hot for glue joints.

    Concerning the electrostatic charge: The part being coated doesn't get charged. The powder itself is given a positive charge in the spray gun.

    Another interesting thing is that the powder itself is either epoxy or poly. Either, of course, can be applied with more conventional methods but at the expense of the mirror smooth finish that can be obtained with powder coating.

    Oh well, another good idea that doesn't work. :)

    Pkr2

    Addendum: This thread was started in the thread titled "nitro cellulose laquer".
     
  2. OTOH, you could use powdercoating if you were making a bass out of....say....1020 DOM steel tubing. We use powdercoating on frames at work. Or you could use aluminum.

    :D
     
  3. Don't give up hope yet...

    The thing about powder coating is that it's just that - a coating. the body doesn't have to be 400º just the powder on the surface. I would think that 10 minutes in that temp wouldn't be a problem at all. I've got a powder coater here in Atlanta that swears that he can do wood with tremendous results.

    Maybe not at the expense of a '62 re-issue Jazz but it might merit more hands on research. Maybe putting together some boards for a run through at a local coater would be worth a try?
     
  4. Yup, but the part itself needs to be conductive. You hook up a grounding strap to the part. All materials are conductive (even insulators). But I doubt wood would have enough conductance to make the conventional powdercoating process possible. And powdercoating colors are rather...oh...bland. Not the deepest colors, nor the most uniform. Sounds like a lot of hassle, when there are other more proven/cheaper/easier/better processes out there.
     
  5. alaskabass

    alaskabass

    Dec 31, 2001
    I understand the concerns using high temps for PVA adhesives. Specifically the potential for breakdown with prolonged heat exposure. Experimenting would be one approach and I would be more than curious to hear the results.

    One possible alternative would be to use epoxy for the glue-ups. Any thoughts/concerns regarding the use of epoxy would be apprerciated.

    Another would be the use of resorcinol-formaldehyde type of adhesive. My preferred favorite for oily wood types to begin with.

    Input ? TIA,
    Don
     
  6. alaskabass

    alaskabass

    Dec 31, 2001
    Keeping up with all the myrid finish products on the market today is a part time job.:D

    What are some proven durable alternatives to powdercoating the undercarriage or in this case the bass ?

    On a tangent,
    Don
     
  7. According to the local coater here that's not necessarily the case. He says that there is a special powdered spray coating that is applied first that allows the negative charging. What will they think of next??

    As for color concentration - I've seen plenty of powder coatings in custom and race car applications that was literally indistinguishable from a heavy paint layer. No mottling or inconsistent color. I've also seen some interesting coatings used on restaurant furniture that was intentionally mottled with a white base and a bronze top coat that looked like small water beads on glass. I know, it's sort of hard to picture with that description but it's all I've got.

    Tufnuts, I only point this out as my experience. You, no doubt, have seen your share of incidents to the contrary. No hassle here.
     
  8. pkr2

    pkr2

    Apr 28, 2000
    coastal N.C.
    Using epoxy glue possibly would work. My first thought though is that since the powder coating is made of either epoxy or polyurethane, the glue would break down at about the same temp that the powder melts.

    It seems to me that resorcinol might be a suitable choice.

    Also as Hambone pointed out, maybe the body wouldn't have to stay in the oven long enough to cause a problem.

    Pkr2
     
  9. pkr2

    pkr2

    Apr 28, 2000
    coastal N.C.
    I don't believe the part has to be conductive for the powder to cling to the part.

    As long as there is a difference in voltage potential between the powder and the part there should be a magnetic attraction between the two. Much the same as a charged comb attracting a small peice of tissue paper. Neither of which is conductive.

    "Sounds like a lot of hassle, when there are other more proven/cheaper/easier/better processes out there."

    It seems worthwhile because you would end up with a much more durable finish than any of the conventional methods. Actually this thread came about because someone was searching for a more durable, scratch resistant finish.

    Pkr2
     
  10. Yeah, but do you have enough hair to rub that body over to charge it? :)

    I don't
     
  11. pkr2

    pkr2

    Apr 28, 2000
    coastal N.C.
    "Yeah, but do you have enough hair to rub that body over to charge it?

    I don't" [HB]

    I don't, but J.T. does. :)

    He's gone for a few days so I guess we can talk junk about him for a few days. :D

    Truth of the matter is, Tuffenough started me thinking about the practicality of the whole thing anyway.

    If powder coating is just epoxy or poly with colorants, why would it be that much better than a sprayed on epoxy finish?

    It sounds like the powder coater that HB mentioned who could do wood has got it worked out. I would love to see a sample of his work.

    You wouldn't care to give the name of the company that you mentioned, would you, HB?

    Pkr2
     
  12. alaskabass

    alaskabass

    Dec 31, 2001
    One of the advantages of the powder coating method vs. conventional spraying lies in the baked on curing process ? Of course you can heat cure other finishes too.

    From my experience powder coating is a proven method as far as durabilty goes. I have field tested products in off-road use/abuse situations. The powder coated stuff held up significantly better than other paint applications.

    I'm planning on finishing one of my basses to match a hot rod, so in this case it requires no real extra effort on my part. I'm already setup to do it.

    If there is a better TIME PROVEN product (key factor here) then I'm all ears. I just don't want to waste my time and money swatting at windmills(quixotic) on manufacturer's hype.

    Don
     
  13. It's been a couple of years since I investigated this subject originally but I think this is the right person and company that I talked with:

    Metal Finishers of Atlanta
    770-717-0490

    Ask for William

    The differences that Alaskabass mentions are that epoxy paints use ground epoxy pigment suspended in a carrier and uses a catalyst for hardening. What you wind up with, in simple terms, is a coating of particles that are "glued" together forming the skin. In a powder coat, the epoxy is melted together forming a totally homogenous skin that is tougher to abrasion. And since the skin is 100% epoxy (without resins like paint) the skin is harder.
     
  14. alaskabass

    alaskabass

    Dec 31, 2001
    Eloquently put, Hambone. Sometimes I wish I spent more time learning to type instead of just doing the work and trying to communicate what I have learned so far via this medium.:rolleyes:

    Shop idiot,
    Don
     
  15. Thanx Alaskabass, I wish I were as good in the shop as I can communicate.

    Those that can do, those that can't talk about it!