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Power Amp Terminal Strips

Discussion in 'Live Sound [BG]' started by Zooberwerx, Sep 29, 2010.


  1. Zooberwerx

    Zooberwerx Gold Supporting Member

    Dec 21, 2002
    Virginia Beach, VA
    I'm doing a permanent install and of the impression that the "screw-down" terminals are best suited for bare wire applications. Would there be any advantage to using fork-type terminal ends or am I just making more work for myself?

    Riis
     
  2. Wes Whitmore

    Wes Whitmore

    Mar 10, 2003
    Columbus, OH
    I would just use bare wire, unless you tend to move things around a lot. It's one more thing to fail.
     
  3. Hi.

    Unless You have "no-stress" screw posts (which I have never seen outside vintage pro amps), crimp-on forks on the leads are the only way to ensure long, trouble free service.

    Another is to use quality banana plugs if the posts accept those as well. A definitive + side of bananas is that You can reverse phase or do bridged connections fast.

    There's nothing as non-permanent than permanent I've discovered ;).

    If the installation is indeed a permanent one, please do take a look at my thread about non-maintained amps in a permanent installation:

    http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=591087

    Regards
    Sam
     
  4. Zooberwerx

    Zooberwerx Gold Supporting Member

    Dec 21, 2002
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Just wanted to be clear....I'm addressing only the terminal strip, not the binding posts (which are banana plug compatible). I'm not sure what a "no stress" screw post is. The terminal strip has individual PH screws with squarish washers for each lead.

    Riis
     
  5. TimmyP

    TimmyP

    Nov 4, 2003
    Indianapolis, IN

  6. For screw-down terminals, you definitely want crimped spade terminals, NOT bare wire. If you’re doing the job right, you should be using 12-ga. speaker wire, or at the very least 14 ga. That wire’s way too thick to try to wrap around a screw. The wire will “splay” out when you tighten the screw, and you might even end up with some of the strands shorting across other terminals – which will shut down the amp.

    For 12-ga wire, you’ll be using a yellow spade lug; 14-ga. requires a blue. And be sure you use a terminal for the correct stud size, #6, #8 or #10. No need for a fancy or high-priced crimper; as a former installer, I’ve never had any problems using a cheap crimper like this. Just be sure an use the correct jaw:


    12704d1235502540-comprehensive-guide-splicing-speaker-wire-crimper.jpg


    Regards,
    Wayne A. Pflughaupt



    Pedulla Club #45
    Administrator, Tobias Club
    Big Cabs Club #23
    My Rig: Stage and FOH Friendly


     
  7. TL5

    TL5

    Jun 27, 2005
    Nashville
    I use the spade terminals on the line input connections of those as well.
    It's not just the speaker wire.

    Example:

    crown-comtec200.jpg
     
  8. Hi.

    On a "no stress" screw post the wire is given just the pressure, without any possibility of twisting or rotating. So if the washer has a tab that's locked into a groove to prevent rotation, a bare wire can be used. A correctly made crimp-on connector will be superior in any case.

    Regards
    Sam
     

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