Hello, I've been in the market for an upright, with a budget of about $4,000. I live in Houston, Tx and have visited a few places, and played and checked out their basses/prices. After visiting the local shops, I'm fairly sure I've found Someone who's willing to sell me one for considerably cheaper than other shops. But I don't wanna get too ahead of myself. I'm going to put up a few of the basses I'm considering, and am just asking for input on whether the prices seem suitable for the instruments. Any feedback would sure be appreciated. Sorry no pictures. These are from a luthier/bass player named James Scoggan. (Duckworth Violins) (All 3/4) Ernst Heinrich Roth, Germany, 1964, Carved top, ply back, $3000 -Mint, Very well taken care of from what I saw Conrad Gotz, Germany, 1965, Flatback, Carved, $5,000 -Said he would do for 4k, very good shape as well Conrad Gotz, Germany, 1955, Roundback, carved, $6,000 -Also said he would sell for 4, This bass has had a few cracks, none major or significant, Has been gigged, it seems the previous owner wrote down his gig dates on one shoulder. Aside from that, this bass caught my eye, and the owner said he liked it as well. German, 1880, Flatback, Carved, $5,000 -Also in my range, This one is a beauty, it does have cracks, none near the bassbar though, Mr. Scoggan said it was pretty beat up when it was brought in, and said he spent a good six months repairing the cracks. These are the main ones I'm considering, with the latter two as My more preferable choices. I've been playing for a few months now, and am sure I will stick with upright, as I'm almost bored with electric now. So I've decided to skip buying a cheap beginner bass, and to go ahead to buy a decent one that I'll have for a while. Living in Houston, it is very humid especially in summer, Should that deter me from going for the Carved ones. I don't currently have a teacher to ask, or take the bass too. I'm a total beginner with no formal musical education, except what I've acquired within the last year. Mr. Scoggan provides a 12 month warranty on instruments, as well as a trade back policy on another instrument for I think the value purchased. He also said he might thrown in a case. I'm sort of leaning toward the 1880 German, after all I could trade it back later on down the road if it doesn't work out. I'm terribly sorry for the long post, I tried to include everything I've seen on other posts. And still missed some. Again any feedback as to whether these prices seem suitable, or which bass would be your choice, would be most sincerely appreciated. Thank You, Nick Young
I would definitely develop a relationship with a capable, experienced, bass-specific teacher before throwing down that type of cash.
Sounds like many good choices at good prices. Flatbacks may be prone to more problems than round, but if these are in good health you should be fine. If you can get an independent luthier evaluation, do it. You need to know what each bass "needs" in terms of repair to know that the asking price will work for you. I would find a pro bassist to help you with your decision. It will be worth the investment. Then pick the one that floats your boat!
thanks alot for your replies, I sure appreciate it, I'm in the process of finding a private instructor... Keep em comin'
What Erick said. There are things that you don't even know that you don't know when first starting out. We have all been there. Bringing an experienced pro along WILL save you money, heartache, or both in the short and long term. Best of luck with your purchase. It isn't like buying a car, its definantly starting a deep, emotional, relationship, when you hook up with a Bass. Also, buy the one that makes you want to get up in the middle of the night and just play it for " a few more minutes." Their curves are sooo sexy, but when they start to sing to you as well, Whoa Mamma!
Agreed. Those prices seem in line. Also, flat backs do tend to have structural issues more often than flatbacks. However, if a flatback sounded awesome, I'd go for it. Personally I'd rule out the Roth. Roths are known for being well-built and strong but at the sacrifice of tone - they are popular in public schools.
This makes me sad. Does this line of thinking apply to fully carved E.H. Roth basses? I have one from 1960 and I'm really pleased with the sound. - Steve
Yeah, take anything you hear with a grain of salt. All Roth (or any brand) basses are not created equal... Enjoy your bass.
There are, of course, gems in any brand. I made a general statement. And there are also duds among very expensive brands. If it sounds good go with it... Which is also what I meant about flat vs round back. Go with the sound.
awesome, thanks a lot for the help so far, it is definitely appreciated. Also while visiting another shop today, I came across a willhelm eberle (German) fully carved upright made in 1980, the luthier bought the last one of two from somewhere in new york, it was made in the "musima atalier" . Spruce top, Back is two piece plain maple with matching ribs, neck, and scroll. Lining is reinforced on the outside of bass ribs for double strength. It's in mint condition, you wouldn't know it was made in 80'. About what price would a bass like this be worth? The luthier has it listed at 4500$. Does that sound pricey?
WAAAAAAAY too much money for that bass. I've played a fully carved Eberle at Ideal Music in Manhattan, where this luthier sourced the bass from. Ideal owns the Eberle name, and when I visited last year they had a ton of new-old-stock instruments they were selling out. It was a fair and sturdy bass for the $1800 or so they had it tagged at, but I liked the $1500 laminated Wilfer next to it much better. They ship worldwide. Give them a call, (212) 675-5050.
Much obliged, I've been looking at other posts about eberle's and didn't see any listed for that high. Glad to know I could get it direct from the source If I wanted. thanks again.
Respectfully Sheriff, What if the luthier got the bass from Ideal and did a lot of work to it? I agree that on the surface something seems to be amiss here, especially if this is a straight "flip", but if I bought a "fair" condition bass for "X" dollars, replaced crappy parts with good quality ones, and put enough time and effort in to make it a "good" bass- then it what I paid for it is no longer relevant- as long as it is priced fairly for it's market that is. I got no dog in this fight- but I just felt it important to bring up another perspective. I honestly have never seen the bass in question, nor played it. Can't say that I have much experience with Eberle's either- but I have read enough of your posts to know that you are quite knowledgeable, experienced and informed- thanks for participating in the forum as much as you do! Nameste, Joe
Is that a nice way of saying I don't know when to shut up? Eberles are OK basses and if someone paid $3k for a new old stock fully carved model with a great setup, I'd say they got a good deal. With all due respect to Ideal, because Mrs. Loeb was great and I'd deal with her again in a heartbeat, that $1800 buys you a "setup" including a "bridge" and "strings," if you catch the meanings of the quotation marks. Even if Arnold himself set it up with Eudoxas, scraped off the sprayed lacquer finish and rubbed the raw wood down with fresh liquid Jesus, $4500 for that bass is outrageous. I'm all for people making money honestly but that seems really, really excessive.
"A nice way of saying I don't know when to shut up?" No, not at all! And all of the points you make are right on- as they usually are (imho). I just felt like it was important for the OP to understand that he might not necessarily be comparing apples to apples...or that he might be! I totally agree that some basses will only come "so far", even under the masterful hand of someone like Arnold! But a new, high quality, professionally fitted bridge; a replaced end pin; dressed (or replaced) fingerboard; new strings and a nice Mooradian bag could easily be worth another 2k. I'm wrestlin with a similar problem right now- I want to do some work to my Shen SB80- but the work will cost more than the bass is worth- even with Gamuts on it! lol! It's "okay" now- but I know it would be totally screaming BAD ASS after the work...so I'm trying to convince myself... Of course, there was also the time my mechanic told me that it would cost me fifteen hundred dollars to make my truck worth five hundred dollars... Hey OP- seriously, listen to the Sheriff- he wouldn't steer ya wrong! Joe
...which is why my father beat me with a stick until I learned how to fix my ratty old $500 truck...kidding...but now I fix basses too...pray for them...
I'm a bit older than you, so I expect my Dad had that stick first...danged near wore it out too before sending it to your Pops! Joe
No such luck...my pop is the woodsman type. I don't know much, but I know those fellas aren't in the habit of leaving lunch crumbs behind or allowing another man to cut their switches. Twisted humor aside, what's wrong with your Shen?