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Problems with building my Neutron

Discussion in 'Effects [BG]' started by TheHankster421, May 24, 2011.


  1. I'm new at this, first off. I've only made a couple of pedals, a Brassmaster clone, and a Booster pedal.
    Now I'm workin on my Neutron and have hit a wall. I can't read a schematic so I've been looking over the diagram on Geofex for "the schematic impaired". It's a little different from the diagram on GGG. That's the first confusing thing I came upon. So I built it for the schematic impaired and it doesn't work. Can somebody look at this diagram and tell me if it's right?
    http://geofex.com/FX_images/neutron-tbp.pdf
    If it is correct, then I think I need a new 3pdt.
    When I hook it up like the above "impaired" way, I get bypass only. I can't get an effect out of it. Some one please help me get my funk on.:confused:
     
  2. Well, first off, you really should get to being able to read schematics, they make it easier to see what's going on, though they are tough to translate to the physical construction. With that out of the way, the switch wiring looks right to me. But you probably should check to see if anything is crossed anywhere or soldered weird. Do you have any pics of the board?
     
  3. You can see on my switch that I've wired this both ways and back again.
     
  4. rratajski

    rratajski Commercial User

    Jul 1, 2008
    Mount Laurel, NJ
    Builder for FUZZROCIOUS PEDALS
    You definitely need to remelt a lot of those solder joints. You shouldnt really see the pad or parts of the lead too much on the inside. Remelt them (slowly) and try to fire it up again, then report back!
     
  5. Please forgive my noobiness... I know I have a lot of the basics to get down. I'm workin on it. What do you mean by lead, and inside? and is the pad the little metal disc surrounding my holes? If I have it right, it is.
    So if I understand it right, your saying the bubbles that formed around the... I guess I realize what a lead is... around the lead should be smoother in some way? I'm assuming you mean on the side of the PCB with the parts.
    I'm gonna start reheating it all from the side without parts, maybe I'll see or realize what you're meaning.
     
  6. rratajski

    rratajski Commercial User

    Jul 1, 2008
    Mount Laurel, NJ
    Builder for FUZZROCIOUS PEDALS
    Only apply solder on the non-component side. The solder should form a mini volcano with the lead (wire) sticking up through the middle.
    If it's not fully-formed, you run the risk of not completing a circuit...
     
  7. DannDubblewe

    DannDubblewe Knob Wrangler

    Apr 3, 2009
    TN
    I've never soldered a PCB, but I will say from looking at your photographs that there are some pads that have no solder or a minimal amount. Also, I don't believe any solder should build up on the component side at all.
     
  8. gastric

    gastric Professional product tester for hire

    Jun 8, 2009
    Raleigh, NC
    Source Audio BETA tester
    Note that the poor soldering on some spots may or may not even be the cause of the issue. But it's the first place to start. There's plenty of good soldering tutorials on the web that show you how to do it properly and what it looks like when you don't.
     
  9. I reheated my welds and they were all fine as far as I could tell. Everything was connected well. Still only sound when bypassed. :( Thanks for clearing up what these joints should look like. So I've probably over soldered this thing huh? I'll try to watch that from now on. There are some holes that have nothing in them because they're capacitor holes. There are extra holes to put large or small capacitors in place.
     
  10. rratajski

    rratajski Commercial User

    Jul 1, 2008
    Mount Laurel, NJ
    Builder for FUZZROCIOUS PEDALS
    You may have even overheated components. You undersoldered, not over. I counted at least 15 or more sketchy joints.
     
  11. I was thinking over as in too much solder. I put heat on it all again. Some of it melted in better, some of it kept a dome shape. What parts do you think I overheated? One problem I 'm having with troubleshooting is that I can't make the effect signal happen with a jumper wire either. I should be able to take the footswitch out of the signal path right? How?
     
  12. rratajski

    rratajski Commercial User

    Jul 1, 2008
    Mount Laurel, NJ
    Builder for FUZZROCIOUS PEDALS
    Don't worry right now about overglobbed right now...it's the ones that you didnt fully solder that are more culprit. If you connect the wire from the input jack to the in of the board and the out of the board to the out of the board to the output jack. This only rules out the switch as the culprit...
     
  13. Well, it's not the 3pdt footswitch. It's bypassed as far as I can tell. It seems pretty apparent where in and out of the board was at. I'll just leave the switch bypassed for now I think, until I figure this out.
    I did make a little progress. The 1M RLog pot, if your familiar with the Neutron project, are you? That is the first thing input goes to. It looked like the connection from the board was all good but no sound. The center leg of the pot went to the board, I left it alone but moved the side leg connection over to the unused leg and it started getting sound. Quite distorted and farty sounding, but sound coming through. I'm gonna move the 150k pot connection and see what it does.
     
  14. Nothin diff. when moving the 150k connection. It's the last thing before output. I forgot to say that the only 1M Rlog I could find was with a switch. That wouldn't matter would it?
     
  15. rratajski

    rratajski Commercial User

    Jul 1, 2008
    Mount Laurel, NJ
    Builder for FUZZROCIOUS PEDALS
    Some pots won't give you sound specifically...
    The issue is on-board.
     
  16. That sucks. Now what?
     

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