Problems with my cab, show in 2 weeks

It is not a good idea to randomly select a replacement speaker for a cabinet.

Speakers can be rebuilt.

In my area, (Milwaukee, Wisconsin), there are at least two, or three people who do this work.
If you can't find someone nearby, there are places who do it where you send the speaker to them, and they mail it back to you.
It takes some skill, and knowledge, but you can buy rebuild kits, and do it yourself, as well.

 

Borrow a cab for the gig.


Quit throwing money at what is really a POS to begin with.


Don't mean to sound like a ****, but the fact is that neither your head nor cab are worth spending one more penny on. Save up and get something better.

 

Unfortunately, you took the advice of someone who did not know what they are talking about.

You CANNOT just put another 10" speaker in there, it needs to match the other 3 exactly or you get what is happening to you right now. It can even get worse and cause damage to the other 3 remaining original speakers.

 

Out of curiosity, what is the science behind this? I'm genuinely interested.

 

Difference in impedance and/or wattage ratings. And as we all know, speakers work best in the cabinets that are designed for them.

 

Return the speaker, if you can, so you're not out the $.
I'd borrow someone else's entire rig if you can. That way you don't take your 600 W amp and blow their cabinet and make things worse for yourself. Another idea is to place an ad for the exact speaker you're looking for to buy it used. Another idea: rent a speaker cab.
Good luck.

 

I get that, but even if it's a generic manufacturer with the same wattage and ohms ratings? It seems like if the speaker will fit, is very similar in construction, and all the numbers line up regarding wattage and ohm ratings, it should work. Is this a case of optimum performance/gear snobbery, or is this actually a potentially damaging combo?

 

The wattage and impedance are two of the least important specs when determining if a speaker works with a particular cab.

 

If impedance and wattage match I doubt if it will damage anything. It may not sound very good. Then again it may sound fine. It's a crapshoot. Looks like the one the OP got isn't matching up too well.

 

Unless you are speaking about potential damage to the remaining speakers.

 

Of all the specs that determine how a speaker will work and sound in a particular cab, the wattage and impedance are the least important.

Since the speakers are operating in the same open cab environment, HOW they work to produce sound can interfere with each other.

 

Again, unless we are discussing potential damage to the remaining speakers and/or the amp.

 

agreed re posts to not mix your drivers (crapshoot) and that you shouldn't invest any further in that cab.

From my own experience and that of others I've spoken with or heard playing if you're looking for low cost but decent quality/sounding 4-10s go for a used Peavey TVX410 or SWR Workingman 410T. Can be had for under $200.

 

Some suggested reading for those with questions:

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/loudspeaker-woofer-parameters-101-a-990490/

 

No, it is not..............

See my post above to learn about the specs of a speaker that matter.

Not all 10" 8ohm, 100w rated speaker SOUND the same. The way they actually WORK to make the sound can be in harmony, or can be destructive.

 

A big +1 if you really want to know. If you are looking for a fast and dirty answer, that one new different speaker reacts differently than the other three. It can cause the other three to be mechanically over-driven when sharing the same cabinet air space. You can't just throw a different speaker in a multi speaker cab. The cab was built to match the speakers that it came with. You don't buy a speaker to "fit a box", you build a box to fit the speaker's operating parameters.

 

Did you hook it up exactly like it was before ?

If not, you could have polarity reversed on one or more speakers which will cause bad sound.

What is more troubling though is that you say with one speaker removed, NONE of the others worked - that is a problem.

An 8 ohm 4X10 cab, loaded with 8 ohm speakers are wired series/parallel to achieve the total 8 ohm load. With only one speaker removed, two other speakers should still be working. To have no speakers working sounds like at least one other speaker is toast (or you completely changed the cabs wiring).

 

Example of the info necessary to match up an existing speaker Specifications:

Nominal Basket Diameter: 15"/381mm
Impedance: 4 ohms
RMS Power Rating: 300 Watts
Frequency Response: 52Hz-2.5kHz
Sensitivity: 98dB SPL
Voice Coil Diameter: 2.5"/63.5mm
Net Weight: 5.7lbs./2.6kg.
Shipping Weight: 8.6 lb./3.9 kg
Rec. Enclosure Volume (Sealed): 1.6-2.9 cu.ft./45-82 Liters
Rec. Enclosure Volume (Vented): 3.0-4.2 cu.ft./85-119 Liters


Thiele & Small Parameters
Resonant Frequency (fs): 38Hz
DC Resistance (Re): 3.72
Coil Inductance (Le): 0.39mH
Mechanical Q (Qms): 4.7
Electromagnetic Q (Qes): 0.5
Total Q (Qts): 0.45
Compliance Equivalent Volume (Vas): 260 liters/9.2 cu. ft.
Peak Diaphragm Displacement Volume (Vd): 381cc
Mechanical Compliance of Suspension (Cms): 0.26mm/N
BL Product (BL): 11.1 T-M
Diaphragm Mass inc. Airload (Mms): 70 grams
Efficiency Bandwidth Product (EBP): 76
Maximum Linear Excursion (Xmax): 4.5mm
Surface Area of Cone (Sd): 856cm2
Maximum Mechanical Limit (Xlim): 8.5mm