Psyching myself up to do a bridge replacement

I always feel like that if it's something I haven't done before. As long as it's not life-threatening I go forth anyway.

 

You're not crazy and you're right to pay attention to intuition. A little apprehension about doing something new is normal but I have also come to realize there are times when my head is not in the right space for certain kinds of repair work. That said the show must go on.

Here are some tips that have been helpful for me:

1. Put masking tape on the top of the bass to help align things and to write measurements (for example, I mark the scale length on both sides of the bridge so I can locate where the G string saddle should end up and also for a centerline from the neck pocket down the body). Touch the tape to your jeans before you stick it to the bass so it comes off cleanly.
2. When you get the bridge located, tape it down so you can mark the holes without accidentally bumping the bridge out of place.
3. Most people mark the holes freehand with an awl but it's surprisingly hard to get them dead centered that way. My trick: use a hinge bit to mark the holes. As the name implies they are used to drill holes for door hinges and they have a spring-loaded outer sleeve that fits into the countersink of your bridge plate and then you just push down so the bit marks the hole location. Yes, you can actually drill your mounting holes with a hinge bit if a) the bit is the right size and b) you feel confident you can hold the drill straight. But a better method is to...
4. Use a drill guide to drill the holes. This is where most people blow it. In the absence of a drill press it's the only way to ensure the holes are straight and perpendicular to the top. There are a few different versions, ranging from a fixture that turns your hand drill into a mini drill press to a small block that simply guides the drill bit. Even a spirit level mounted to the back of your drill is better than nothing (I wish more drills came with this feature).
5. Remember to put a little piece of tape on the drill bit as a depth stop.

Good luck and you know the rules: pics or it didn't happen.

 

If the bass is set up well at this point, carefully measure the distance from the saddle on each string to a reference point, like the edge of the last fret. Then, when placing the new bridge, ensure that these measurements fall into about the middle of the new saddles intonation adjustment travel. Then mark your new screw hole locations.

 

Before you drill, run the bit in reverse for a second or two. This scuffs the cone shape of the bit into the finish. Starting in the proper "tighten" direction can sometime cause the bit to bite into the clear coat and take a tiny chip with it. Drilling into taped-off points helps avoid this as well (as well as making a great method of marking.

To work up the courage, measure your points....numerous times. Once you say to yourself "alright, let's do this s***", you'll be confident. Wax on, wax off.....

 

I was going to mention hinge bits. @testing1two beat me to it.

General Tools Hinge Bit Set (2-Piece)-290ST - The Home Depot

 

Measure twice drill once. Use sharp drill bits. Use a depth stop.

Btw, what's wrong with the bridge that's on there.

 

The best thing to use for drilling the holes are brad point bits; they won't chip the edges of the hole and will center on a dent made with a scratch awl or a scriber point.

Standard twist drills will splinter at the start of the hole, no matter how sharp they are. It is possible to minimize this if one is experienced with the drill, and start with quite high speed and very, very light pressure for the first 1/16" or so of hole depth. The idea is to only allow the drill to make a very light cut. Starting a twist drill in reverse can potentially skate across the surface and do far more damage than good. It's still better to use a brad point bit.

Another method would be to take a piece of 1/2" plywood, mark the bridge holes on the plywood, and pre-drill the holes, completely through the plywood. Then place the plywood on the bass and line up the pre-drilled holes with your hole markings on the bass, then drill through the plywood into the bass.

 

Did mine with a pencil, punch, painters's tape, string, BBQ skewers (...as plugs), and a Dremel. If I hadn't mentioned it, you would never know.

Riis

 

No question some risk is always involved. But if I can do it, so can you. My last bridge replacement involved drilling for string thru bridge on a finished body. I received great advice from TB members, such as taping the entire body, use of a pin locator, & drilling w/ Forstner bits. Still very nerve racking and thankfully turned out exactly as planned.

 

Go ahead and change the bridge. Play with your eyes closed; you'll never see the hole. If people ask,...worms.

 

If you are refinishing it, how would anyone ever know that you plugged the visible holes?

Clear finish?

 

Seriously...jam a piece of dowel (BBQ skewer, chopstick) in the exposed hole, trim flush, then touch-up with a like-color Sharpie. The majority of my improvised low-dough mod's is done with stuff I swipe from my wife's art studio. The repair is sacrificial...easily removed / reversed if desired.

Riis

 

lovely! (and totally on-brand for your username )

what kind of bridge is that?