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Q. re Bass Stands

Discussion in 'Miscellaneous [DB]' started by swingfingers, Nov 1, 2002.

  1. Firstly, as this is my first time posting, I want to say that I truly appreciate this sight. It's a great forum to ask questions and read others’ opinions, etc.

    Onto my question. I recently moved into a tiny, crammed apartment with my fiancée and will soon be trying to fit my Tyrolean bass in it with me. As there is no corner space large enough for it to stand against and no floor space large enough for it to lie on, I am considering buying a bass stand of some sort.

    After checking various sites (Lemur, Upton, B. Gollihur, etc. etc.), I have seen a few metal stands (Meisel was one), but none look particularly sturdy. I will also be keeping my bass in its Mooradian case and don’t know if any of these stands will accommodate the case. I thought I saw a wooden stand that looked much nicer advertised in the ISB rag quite a while ago but can’t find it now.

    Do any of you have any experience with any of the above stands or others that you like and/or work with a thick case? Please let me know what you think of your bass stands!

  2. The one on Golllihur's site looks the sturdiest that I have seen. I have one of those crappy flimsy ones and I am contantly worried the cat will knock it over or something. The only reason I haven't bought the one on Gollihur.com is cuz there is only 6 inches of clearance for the endpin, and I am one of those tall guys who needs my endpin out longer than that.
  3. Bob Gollihur

    Bob Gollihur GollihurMusic.com

    Mar 22, 2000
    Cape of New Jersey
    Big Cheese Emeritus: Gollihur Music (retired)
    I can give you some impartial specs and thoughts about the stands I've owned or use.

    The Meisel is no doubt the sturdiest IMHO-- the underbody arms holding the body of the bass is the most secure situation as far as I am concerned. However, since you want to use it with your case, that complicates matters-- I just measured the U-shaped cradle for the neck, and it is just a shade less than three inches deep and wide. Obviously, that's made to accommodate a bare bass, not one with a cover, and especially not one with a bulky case. I have, however, used one with my cased bass, and while my case's neck padding is probably not as bulky as yours, leaning it against the neck cradle made it plenty stable since the bottom body cradle really does the main work. However, if I were to use one like that on a steady basis, I'd probably grab one of the short bungee cords and wrap it around the neck and neck cradle for maximum stability.

    I've also owned one of the older Hamilton stands and have one of the more contemporary ones for my Eminence, modified as it is. I also have some of the contemporary Hamiltons in stock for bass players who need to transport something less bulky than the Meisel, and also for Baby Bass-sized EUBs.

    The original Hamilton is a no-go, as the arms are floppy and wouldn't hold onto the cased bass.

    The current Hamilton is the type that uses a cup to hold your endpin, and has a couple rubber-coated arms to grab the shoulders. The arms have only a 1.75 inch depth, so again, a cased bass could be shakey, and the endpin-in-the-cup is certainly not as stable as the Meisel described above. If you used one, I'd again rely on a (longer) bungee cord to stretch across the bass from arm to arm.

    Most wooden ones I've seen have been custom and monstrosities. However, you may want to give a thought towards fabricating something resembling the cello box stands I've seen-- those typically are nothing more than a rectangular box with thin sides, no top, that is big enough to contain the instrument's lower bout and tall enough to stabilize it based on that principle. The commercial ones I've seen generally have a U-shaped cutout in the front to accommodate the tailpiece, and are covered with material so as not to scratch the instrument. Just a thought towards something that you could possibly make, though it would have to be heavy enough and tall enough to maintain stability.

    Good luck in your search! Bob

    P.S. Came back to point you to http://www.johnson-inst.com/catalog/accessor.htm where there is an image of a box-type wooden cello stand. If I were to build one, I think I'd put a place for the endpin, which would stablize the instrument further and make the height requirement less.
  4. Phil Smith

    Phil Smith Mr Sumisu 2 U

    May 30, 2000
    Peoples Republic of Brooklyn
    Creator of: iGigBook for Android/iOS
    I have the Bass Fiddle Caddy, by Brobst made in the UK and it's pretty sturdy. Doesn't work to good with the gig bag on though.
  5. jimclark68


    Dec 16, 2000
    Morganton, NC
    I have the Meisel stand, as endorsed by (All Hail) Bob G. This is the only stand I have owned, so I cannot give objective info about other types, although I have seen the Hamilton kind in stores. I am very happy with the Meisel and take it almost everywhere I play. The only rub is that if you have the endpin extended more than a few inches, the bottom of the bass does not rest securely in the stand because it sits higher than the arms. You have to sort of lay the bass back until it fits. I extend my endpin out around 8 inches or so, and I have to lay my bass back until the very back edge of the bass bottom is resting on the end of the arms of the stand. Despite this, it is still very secure in the stand. It does mean that it takes up a little more floorspace. My bass rests in a corner, and it takes up 38x38 inches of floorspace. Of course, you could insert the endpin back into the bass after you are done playing, I just choose not to. My bass does not fit in the stand when in its case.
  6. Thank you all for your responses. Special thanks to Bob Gollihur for his quick and detailed response. I’m picking up the bass this weekend so I’ll measure it (with case) to see if it may fit the Meisel stand (with bungee cord). Unfortunately I don’t have the space or tools at the moment to make a wood stand like the one on Bob’s link (although I like the idea). Keeping the bass in the case seems to be a sticking point but because the apartment is so dry it’s a necessity. (I’ve tried humidifiers but the wood in my apartment just sucks up the extra moisture and the bass cracks – Dave Gage recommended keeping the bass in the case so moisture from the dampits would be used by the bass, not the rest of the apartment, and I think it works).

    Any other ideas please write in! Thanks again.
  7. I keep all my basses in their cases
    It's the best way I've found, you see
    To ensure constant and appropriate humidity
    For if the moisture it was lacking
    Then "ma puir wee" basses would end up cracking
    But too much moisture (so I'm told)
    Would cause my basses to grow awful mold -
    Now these canny things, I'm sure you know
    But, I'm telling here, in case you don't - and so
    No matter what your basses space is -
    Keep your basses in their cases

    (with apologies to William McGonagall)

    Hoots Mon!

    - Wil
  8. Jeff Bollbach

    Jeff Bollbach Jeff Bollbach Luthier, Inc.

    Dec 12, 2001
    freeport, ny
    Will, you're a hoot!
  9. Bob Gollihur

    Bob Gollihur GollihurMusic.com

    Mar 22, 2000
    Cape of New Jersey
    Big Cheese Emeritus: Gollihur Music (retired)
    Careful Wil, you will lose your Curmudgeon reputation with artful prose such as that!
  10. arnoldschnitzer

    arnoldschnitzer AES Fine Instruments

    Feb 16, 2002
    New Mexico. USA
    Many years ago I had my bass on a Hamilton stand downstairs in the family room. I heard a huge CRASH and ran down to find the bass on its back, my 3-year old daughter standing there looking stupefied. She took one look at me and began the wail of death...The bass' scroll was busted clean off. And that was the beginning of my career as a double bass luthier...

    The big problem with keeping your bass in its case is that you'll miss out on spontaneous opportunities to play it. Why deprive yourself of the pleasure? Just get some humidity in your place--it's no big deal. Buy a cheap warm mist humidifier at Sears for $50 or so. Get a hygrometer, and try to keep the humidity around 35-40% in the winter. Your furniture will also benefit, as will your respiratory health. And you'll get fewer headaches. My advice--stay away from humidifiers that use wicks or filters. They never last even half as long as they're supposed to, and they develop a moldy smell that can't be healthy.
  11. Monte


    Jan 9, 2001
    DFW Area, Tejas

    I have mixed feelings about this. I work training people on indoor air quality issues, and deal extensively with mold. Mold is not only a serious allergen for those prone to allergies, but some species have some toxicity issues as well, and the "disposable" type warm mist humidifiers pose a particular problem in that they can't be effectively clean. I actually know an environmental scientist who buys the cheap $20 ones and buys one every WEEK:eek: . I have a Holmes that uses filtration and they can be really unhealthy if not THOROUGHLY cleaned once every few weeks with the filter being changed as recommended. It has a built in hygrometer and keeps the humidity constant in the winter. Part of the reason that they don't last as long is that they aren't kept clean. Mine also has a tube of anti-microbial stuff that is inserted into the water, and I spray down the housing with a really good commercial anti-microbial used in mold remediation. Even at that, I will probably buy a new one after this third winter.

    Lack of changing filters is why I don't necessarily recommend air cleaners, because if you leave the same HEPA filter on for a year (which people tend to do) spore counts can be higher in your house than if you weren't using one at all.

    While all this may sound anal, those of us in this industry are starting to see an awful lot of anecdotal evidence to support certain illnesses being caused by mold. For example, every time I see tenants with stomach/ gut problems in a moldy house I find Fusarium. Every time I find chronic fatigue combined with bloody phlegm, I find Stachybotris. Insurance companies, who have backed out of paying for remediation are now spouting the line that there is no medical evidence. True, but if you know how links are found in the medical community, it takes a LONG time. Remember how many years of anecdotal evidence there was that cigarettes caused lung problems before the medical community said there was conclusive evidence.

    My advice to anyone who has BOTH mold in their house AND is suffering medical problems to seek out someone to look at their problems.

  12. arnoldschnitzer

    arnoldschnitzer AES Fine Instruments

    Feb 16, 2002
    New Mexico. USA
    Monte: VERY impressive dissertation. Please tell me what you think about adding commercially available humidifier water treatment or a few drops of chlorine bleach to the water. BTW, I don't buy disposable humidifiers--I find the Sears brand usually last me two seasons. I clean them semi-regularly. I was under the impression that these heat the water enough to kill microbes. Please educate me (and everybody else) about this issue.
  13. Monte


    Jan 9, 2001
    DFW Area, Tejas
    Sorry, I got busy and forgot to reply to this. Here is the advice on contolling moisture and cleaning devices from the EPA doc. Also, our website Envirobay has many great links for more info, as well as a news scroller that we keep updated with news stories on the subject.

    Maintain and Clean All Appliances That Come In Contact With Water
    Have major appliances, such as furnaces, heat pumps and central air conditioners, inspected and cleaned regularly by a professional, especially before seasonal use. Change filters on heating and cooling systems according to manufacturer's directions. (In general, change filters monthly during use.) When first turning on the heating or air conditioning at the start of the season, consider leaving your home until it airs out.

    Have window or wall air-conditioning units cleaned and serviced regularly by a professional, especially before the cooling season. Air conditioners can help reduce the entry of allergy-causing pollen. But they may also become a source of biological pollutants if not properly maintained. Clean the coils and incline the drain pans according to manufacturer's instructions, so water cannot collect in pools.

    Have furnace-attached humidifiers cleaned and serviced regularly by a professional, especially before the heating season.

    Follow manufacturer's instructions when using any type of humidifier. Experts differ on the benefits of using humidifiers. If you do use a portable humidifier (approximately 1 to 2 gallon tanks), be sure to empty its tank every day and refill with distilled or demineralized water, or even fresh tap water if the other types of water are unavailable. For larger portable humidifiers, change the water as recommended by the manufacturer. Unplug the appliance before cleaning. Every third day, clean all surfaces coming in contact with water with a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide, using a brush to loosen deposits. Some manufacturers recommend using diluted household bleach for cleaning and maintenance, generally in a solution of one-half cup bleach to one gallon water. When using any household chemical, rinse well to remove all traces of chemical before refilling humidifier.

    Empty dehumidifiers daily and clean often. If possible, have the appliance drip directly into a drain. Follow manufacturer's instructions for cleaning and maintenance. Always disconnect the appliance before cleaning.

    Clean refrigerator drip pans regularly according to manufacturer's instructions. If refrigerator and freezer doors don't seal properly, moisture may build up and mold can grow. Remove any mold on door gaskets and replace faulty gaskets.

  14. littlebill


    Oct 18, 2002
    Apopka, Fla
    At home I used to leave my bass in the corner of a room but a friend suggested a simple solution that works really well. I put in a large ceiling hook and attached a nylon cord to the hook. I made a noose that would not slip, adjusted the length until I had to lift the bass an inch or so off the floor to get the noose under the scroll and into the notch behind. If the wife changes the room, I buy another hook. I can also leave the endpin at my preferred length. Going back to the original post, this will not work with a case but if the bass is not kept in the case, you don't need a corner, it will work anywhere and you can walk up and start playing. The bass will move around some but will not fall.
  15. I was going to suggest hanging it from the ceiling.. until I read that last post. Hammond Ashley's bass violins in seattle Hangs a large portion of thier basses from the ceiling. They use Bungee/shock cord, and hang loop it around one of the tuning machine pegs. All their basses that were hanging like this ( as well as the ones that werent) survived the Seattle Earthquake a few years ago, so it has to be a good bet that if you hang your bass from a stud in the ceiling or wall, that you wont have to worry about it. If you want to keep it in your case, put a hook on the case maybe. I dont like to keep my instruments in the case, because it gives a lazy guy an excuse not to practice.. Its much easier for me to be able to pick up the instrument on impulse.. Also, My bass goes on my Bed in my dorm room alot when I'm not sleeping...

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