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Question about a head to go with a Bill Fitzmaurice cab

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by OriginalCrash, Jun 14, 2007.


  1. Okay, so I've been reading a lot of good things about BFD cabs lately. As I've wanted to go the separate head/cab route for a while now but was daunted by the price, I'm definitely excited about the possibility of buying a used head and then building a cab. I'll probably look to build a DR250. My question(s)... Does it have to be built with a tweeter array? If it doesn't, is it still in my best interest to do so (I know that probably very subjective, based on what kind of tone I want)? On the one hand, I like the idea of the tweeter array to get a full-range sound (not to mention it looks great!). On the other hand, I play a Jazz with a soft maple body and maple neck and board, and the GK 700RB-II and 1001RB-II (fairly bright amps) are two of the heads I'm considering... Am I gonna be looking at too much treble through this rig? Lastly, are there any heads in particular you guys have used and found they work particularly well with BFD cabs (again, subjective, I know... just trying to get opinions and experience)?

    Brian
     
  2. Unless you go with a full range Omni cab, my suggestion is to do separates instead of a head. Unless the head has built in bi-amping.

    For example, if you build a T39 and DR250, they are best served by bi-amping with a standard two-channel amp such as a PLX, Crown, etc. You will use an active crossover which provides superior characteristics over passive types, such as variable crossover point and channel volume controls.

    You will have to find the preamp that pleases your ear. All of the good solid state power amps will sound nearly identical, and work great with your chosen preamp.

    [ edit ]

    I use an SWR Interstellar Overdrive preamp, Rane ME30B equalizer, Rane DC24 crossover/limiter and a PLX 1202 in my bass rack. I have 1RU left empty in a 6RU rack. Weight is tolerable. I have the ME30B dialed in to equalize my system flat, outdoors. I use the tone controls on the IOD to taste. The DC24 has a very wide variety of crossover frequencies, and an excellent compressor/limiter. The PLX 1202 is more than enough with a bass horn setup. I have a pair of PLX 3002 in separate racks, just in case more is needed.
     
  3. So would a DR250 need a sub, as well? Or can it serve as a bass cab by itself?

    Brian
     
  4. A DR250 is weak below 100 Hz and strong as hell above that. It works well as a standalone cab in a small venue, or as a stage monitor with full PA support.

    I personally wouldn't use one without a sub underneath it. YMMV.
     
  5. billfitzmaurice

    billfitzmaurice Commercial User

    Sep 15, 2004
    New Hampshire
    Owner, Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design
    Either way, depending how much output and extension you need. Ask owners here:
    http://billfitzmaurice.com/phpBB2/
     
  6. I have read around on the BFD forum, but I haven't registered and posted anything. I'll probably do that sometime, but as I'm at work and about to go back into the warehouse (away from a computer), let me ask a couple more questions... So the DR250 could serve as a standalone bass cab, but would likely need a sub, but an Omni would do fine without a sub? As for the size of where I normally play, I'm not sure of the dimensions (and I'm horrible at guessing those sorts of things), but it's not big. It's a church sanctuary (older one... now being used as the student ministry building) that is probably about two and half times as long as it is wide... maybe twenty/thirty feet wide? It might hold 250-300 if it were packed. On average there are about 75 people there (all huddled up front when we're playing). So it's not that big. But I am playing with two electric guitarists and the stereotypical loud drummer, so do you think I'd still need a sub, or would the DR250 or an Omni work well enough by itself? Thanks again for helping to clear this up, and I'll check out the BFD forum more when I get more time.

    Brian
     
  7. If I were going to play a DR2xx as a standalone box, it would be a DR280. Larger horn mouth, longer path, better bottom.

    However, I always play two boxes, even tiny ones, and bi-amp them. For reasonable size, you can play a T39 and DR250 using an active crossover to select the frequency where both are contributing equally. The T39 goes up a long way before it chokes off. Letting the T39 handle a higher range avoids operating the DR250 down too low. This would be around 125~150 Hz.
     
  8. billfitzmaurice

    billfitzmaurice Commercial User

    Sep 15, 2004
    New Hampshire
    Owner, Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design
    More often than not I use a single DR250. I'll add a T39 below for very large outdoor gigs.
     
  9. Yeah, but you play at sensible levels. I'd hazard a safe bet, that most of the players on TB run at MUCH higher levels.
     
  10. billfitzmaurice

    billfitzmaurice Commercial User

    Sep 15, 2004
    New Hampshire
    Owner, Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design
    Much higher distortion levels for sure.;)
     
  11. I thought I'd add this to my description of where I play and who I play with... In spite of the loud drummer and the small room (I guess the size of the room could be a good or bad thing... good in that my sound doesn't have to be loud enough to reach too far... and we do have a modest, decent P.A... not so good in that that's a lot of sound to fit into a small room), I manage to hear myself/get heard with a 100-watt 15" combo. I don't exactly have a lot of headroom, but I get the volume I need. I've never built one of Bill's cabs, so I don't know for sure, but I'm thinking and hoping that one DR250 (or maybe a DR280, if I needed more... though I like the crossfiring tweeters of the 250) would be enough to get me what I needed with the cab's sensitivity and a higher powered amp than I'm playing now.

    Brian
     
  12. billfitzmaurice

    billfitzmaurice Commercial User

    Sep 15, 2004
    New Hampshire
    Owner, Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design
    Not much of a contest that one. Hopefully you can fathom these. This is what your 1x15 is likely capable of:
    Alpha15-3cuft.gif

    And this is a DR250:
    DR250.gif
     
  13. Thanks. That definitely lets me know that the DR250 should be enough for what I need... And if I did need to add a Titan to it, I could always do that later on.

    Brian
     
  14. Primary

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    Jan 15, 2021

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