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Question on changing strings.

Discussion in 'Strings [BG]' started by ericmonster_tm, Dec 18, 2006.

  1. I'm still a bit of a novice when it comes to changing strings. I'm not quite sure what I'm doing wrong.

    Pardon my ignorance if there's something here that Im not doing right.

    I previously had an early 90's Dean Edge bass. The first time I changed the strings, I got hellacious fret buzz at the first fret.

    So i took it in to get set-up. The guy adjusted the action and the pick-ups and set the action pretty high.

    So it worked, until it was time to change strings again. This time the buzzing was worse. So we adjsuted it. We thought maybe the truss rod needed adjsuting. So I took it in to get set-up again. By now the intonation is a bit jarred. Depending on the weather or how tight the strings are depends on how well it is intonated.

    So this past weekend I got a very nice G&L. The action is really low, plays like a dream, intonation is great. No more odd looks as who is playing a wrong note at practice.

    The bass had the original strings on it. SO I changed the strings.

    Sure enough. Fret Buzz at the first fret.

    So it doesnt seem to be the bass. I dont have the tools to adjust the action. I dont think i could get it in and out of the shop in time for the next practice.

    Am I getting strings that are too thick?

    Does anyone know what strings originally come on G&L's?
  2. greenboy


    Dec 18, 2000
    remote mountain cabin Montana
    greenboy designs: fEARful, bassic, dually, crazy88 etc
    Well, here's why it's good to learn to do your own setups. Here's a good link for that: http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/setupmanual.html

    Anyway, different sets and gauges and types of strings vary both in their TENSION, and flexibility, and depending on one's touch and setup either one or both can affect how easy it is to get string buzz.

  3. I use DR High-Beams. Mediums. 45/105.
  4. greenboy


    Dec 18, 2000
    remote mountain cabin Montana
    greenboy designs: fEARful, bassic, dually, crazy88 etc
    Medium High Beams have a fair amount of tension (that's based on gauge more than anything else), but also have MORE FLEXIBILITY (because of the round core wire) than say, Low Beams or most other hex-core roundwounds. So, being more flexible, they require either a combination of higher bridge barrels and/or more relief, or playing with a lighter touch.
  5. Taurus


    Feb 2, 2001
    You have to pay attention to how you wrap the string around the post so that the next turn gets pushed under the previous one etc. I think you might not be getting enough "string break angle" past the nut on the headstock side.
  6. MonetBass

    MonetBass ♪ Just listen ♫ Supporting Member

    Sep 15, 2006
    Tulsa, OK
    Excellent point, Taurus. Hadn't thought of that, so good catch.
  7. Just an update on this thread.

    I tracked down the orignal SIT strings that came on on bass. I would have to mail order them.

    So the next best thing was the Fender 7250ML.

    To answer the above posts. They are wrapped find.

    I guess I should've mentioned that I tune to C. I believe I am in need of higher tension strings or strings in a light gauge.

    This way when I tune to C they arent as "flappy."

    My question is do G&L bases require an extra long string? I noticed on the SIT website that the it says the XL gauge says "Fits G&L."

    If I go to flats, should I get an extra long gauge?
  8. Matthew Bryson

    Matthew Bryson Guest

    Jul 30, 2001

    All things being equal, light strings are floppier.

    You want heavy strings for tuning down.
  9. fearceol


    Nov 14, 2006
    I have a G+L 2000 Tribute and have been using D'addario EXL's long scale. I think Extra Long scale is for "string through body" guitars.
  10. Flintc


    Aug 15, 2006
    Sounds like some of the problem may lie with the nut. Lighter strings wound tighter probably sit deeper into the nut, and this could cause some buzz at the first fret. It may be possible to raise the nut a tiny bit to cure this problem without doing anything more drastic.
  11. TrooperFarva


    Nov 25, 2004
    New City, NY
    If you tune to C, I say get the bottom 4 strings of a 5 string set. It's a lot more natural to tune a string up one half step instead of down 2 whole steps.

    Or just get a 5 string bass.
  12. guy n. cognito

    guy n. cognito Secret Agent Member Supporting Member

    Dec 28, 2005
    Nashville, TN

    Big +1. If your downtuning to C, then you have no reason not to get a 5-string. Simply put, you are asking your bass to do something it's not meant to do. If you want to downtune your 4-string to C, then the tradeoff will be very high action.
  13. bassman314

    bassman314 I seem to be a verb, an evolutionary process...

    Mar 13, 2005
    Bay Area, CA
    high action, and you'll need to liekly get a new nut and maybe new bridge saddles, depending on the tolerances..

    5-string bass is the way to go for odd tunings.
  14. JimmyM

    JimmyM Supporting Member

    Apr 11, 2005
    Apopka, FL
    Endorsing: Ampeg Amps, EMG Pickups
    Not true at all. Downtuning a 4-string is as simple as adjusting the trussrod and putting on a thicker set of strings (reverse the order actually). Or not. Doug Pinnick from King's X downtunes with a normal set of lights. You get a little buzzing that way, but he doesn't seem to mind as buzzing is a part of his sound. Too many bassists downtune 4-strings and work with them fine to say that it's not supposed to work that way.

    Oh, I almost forgot...if you put on a thicker set of strings, you may need to have your nut filed out.

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