RACK RIGS??????

It seems to be... though Bill Fitzmaurice, and others, recommend against using it.

Bill has said that it should only be used in cases where the amp can not generate a sufficient voltage swing into high-impedance loads (16Ω, or higher was the example he gave); other uses simply increase the possibility of blown drivers.

 

Bill is a conservative when it comes to gear, and often deals with people who often do stupid things that ruin things.

Bridging is a valid way of operating if you know what you're doing and you're careful with it. To the same extent, having a power amp that can produce extremely high wattages can be dangerous even without bridging...if someone doesn't have speakers that will effectively use that wattage.

 

Perhaps... but, I do find his knowledge and understanding of such things to be quite complete; he knows what he's talking about.

Of course, everyone will build and use their rig as they see fit, but advice like this (and he has re-stated it many times) from someone with such depth of knowledge can be quite helpful.

 

True, and I appreciate Bill.

At the same time, bridging isn't a mystical thing. Amps create voltage swing. More powerful amp means more swing, whether by bridging two units or using a single unit that provides the voltage. Its good to know how bridging works and what it does, but at the output jack of the amp, it amounts to more voltage which means higher wattage into a given load.

You should be aware what a given wattage (whether it's 800w, 1200w or 2000w) will do to your speakers no matter how it was generated.

 

No, luckily I was just confused ;-)

 

+1

 

So to be totally clear, let's say I were to buy the PL-8 C E Power Conditioner. This would supply power to everything in the rack, but I would still need a power amp, correct?

 

Correct. And if you're using it purely as a power distribution for the convenience of the extra plugs, that's cool although there may be cheaper options.

If you're doing it because you want extra 'protection' you may want to do some searching around here for 'power conditioner' threads before [DEL]wasting [/DEL] spending the extra money.

 

My current rack.

Furman, Rack Tuner, sliding draw holds my Hartke Bass Attack pedal (always on) and my Line 6 G50 wireless. Hartke Kilo. Its heavy enough that I need help getting on top of my 810.

 

Sounds good just using it as an example, to be honest. so in the signal chain, it would go:
bass -> preamp -> power amp -> cabinets ??
(given that effects and compressors and stuff will be placed where the user wishes)

 

Yes.

 

thanks!!!

 

OP,
Rack size and weight are considerations.
Bells and whistles look good on paper, but they are much less attractive at 2am, if you are a geezer, or both.

I have a Sansamp RPM + ProLite2 running in a current production SKB XRack3.
The rear cover arrangement makes hand access impossible.
Other than this, the rack is very compact, sturdy and light weight.

I understand SKB is doing a complete redesign of the XRack series.
I hope they replace that awful rear-panel arrangement with a standard lid, but keep the 10.5" depth.
This will be great for small class-D amps and preamps.

My 4RU RoadRunner ATA cases are 25 pounds empty, built like tanks, and overkill for a weekend warrior.
These are being supplanted by SKB 3RU Standard racks for my power amps and crossovers.
The weight gets old, the older I get.

 

pretty much what everyone else said here.
I went to a rack rig because I wanted to try so many preamps but maintain a solid power stage. so I picked up a QSC PLX power amp, as it was recommended by Jorg Schroeder.
Then I tried a couple different preamps until I found one that I liked, sold the others.

one thing I do like about the rack rig is that all connections are balanced and provides option to use higher end gear, like channel strips & compressors & harmonizers

 

I agree. Small and light wins for me. Shelves and drawers sound like good ideas but instead just add weight and aren't that useful. I prefer to keep a rack lean, pick one of the plastic ones that are lighter and seem just as hardy (if not more) than any wood racks I've had and but the bare minimum stuff in it. If you're moving it daily, weekly or even less frequently it gets old quickly. Also 2 four space racks are sometimes easier to pack and move than one 8 or 10 space monstrosity.

 

I suggest at least a power conditioner, compressor/gate, 2 or 3 space drawer and of course your amp.
I personally run all of those plus a backup head and wireless

 

Get a decent head and portable rack. Power conditioners are crap. Trust me unless your willing to drop $800 on a real one don't even bother they do not completely protect your gear and if anything it can reduce your performance.

 

I’m inclined to agree. I re-wired mine and bypassed the “conditioning” module, so now it basically just switches the outlets. I like having a master power switch, plus mine has a built-in tuner as well.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt


Administrator, Pedulla Club #45
Administrator, Tobias Club
Big Cabs Club #23
My Rig: Stage and FOH Friendly

 

My old touring rack.. Now i use a 2 sp. rack for everything plus a REDDI on the side

 

I bet it took a couple guys from the band to help you get that up on top of your 810.