1. Please take 30 seconds to register your free account to remove most ads, post topics, make friends, earn reward points at our store, and more!  
    TalkBass.com has been uniting the low end since 1998.  Join us! :)


Discussion in 'Effects [BG]' started by merrill_chris, Dec 17, 2000.

  1. merrill_chris


    Nov 23, 2000
    What is a good $100-$200 rack tuner i should look into?

  2. I have used the Korg DTR-2 for a couple of years now. It has been extemely reliable and accurate. On top of that, it is also very lightweight and in the low end of your price range (I think I bought mine for about $125.00).

    It has a mute function, so you can tune onstage without making a lot of noise, and doesn't have a bazillion other bells and whistles that a person like me doesn't use anyway.
    I highly recommend it.

  3. Nails


    Jun 4, 2000
    Austin, Tejas
    Any Korg tuner. To name names the DTR-1 and DTR-2. I haven't heard a bad thing about either one of those. I have an older DTR-1Pro which is amazing, it's closer to being a DTR-2, but it has a few more features on the front, and the panel is laid out a little different. Only downfall of the DTR-2 is that the note you're tuning isn't as displayed as large as it is on the DTR-1. And the DTR-1 has some more features, for example it has a cable check on it. Either of those would be great.
  4. merrill_chris


    Nov 23, 2000
    what is a cord check??
  5. Munjibunga

    Munjibunga Total Hyper-Elite Member Gold Supporting Member

    May 6, 2000
    San Diego (when not at Groom Lake)
    Independent Contractor to Bass San Diego
    DTR-1. It's a little over your $200, but it's worth it in the long run.
  6. Mo' bass

    Mo' bass

    May 4, 2000
    I have tried a Korg DTR-2 and returned it to the store. When I connected it to my amp there immediately was a loud hum sound. Running my bass through it also affected my sound. It lost some bottom and something just wasn't right in the mid's. I tried all kinds of connections and earthing with two different units but the problems didn't go away. If if works for you guys, great! Try before you buy...
  7. brewer9


    Jul 5, 2000
    I'm not sure how much it costs (i think about $100), but the Furman Power Conditioner/Tuner is a great purchase. You get full power conditioning and plug-ins for your rack and a topnotch tuner at the same time.
  8. why didnt you just use the "tuner out" jack? that way, all it does is send a signal strong enough for a tuner, yet, you dont get the signal back so that it cannot effect your sound in any shape or foarm at all.
  9. john turner

    john turner You don't want to do that. Trust me. Staff Member

    Mar 14, 2000
    atlanta ga
    yeah, good call muttluk.

    one should never put a tuner in line through their main signal path.

  10. Ok here's an odd angle. I'm currently building an entire rack unit consisting of amp, preamp etc. I am also after a tuner, maybe in a rack style. But because my money is tied up in the purchasing of cases and components i was wondering if anyone knew where i could get a schematic and or PCB layout of a bass tuner?

    Preferably on the net unless anyone lives in Australia and can contact me. :p


  11. Mo' bass

    Mo' bass

    May 4, 2000
    I agree... NOW!

    Because I gig with a wireless but rehearse with a cord I wanted to take advantage of the two inputs that the DTR-2 has. I also want to be able to mute my signal when tuning, because I sometimes check my tuning during the intro of a song.
  12. Not to sound like a Smarta$$ or anything, but just see it as me giving you some advice, or giving you advice to make it easyer for your switching between cable, and wireless... Use an a/b switch. i have a Morley switch, and its great, doesnt add anything to the signal what so ever. so then you just like run side A into the wireless, and then B into the cable, and then give the input into the input of the amp, so then you can just push a button, and switch basses. also the great thing about morley a/b's is that it doesnt matter about if a is an input or an output, so you can have one in and two outs, or two ins and one out. and their built of all metal, i've droped mine countless numbers of times, and its still working great.
  13. An a/b switch does add something to your signal path...it adds a switch. I tried a Morley a/b box but it was too noisy. I ended up wiring up a splitter box with a little bit of wire and some switchcraft jacks. No switch and no noise.
  14. what did you use into the morley box? i ran it with a guitar (not bass, but a 6 string strat.)in, the a side went into one amp for clean, and the b went into another amp for distortion. For clean i had the pedal on a, and for distortion i just hit a and b. i didnt notice any new "noise" that i didnt want, except for that "click" you get when you switch while your playing a note, which wasnt actuly that noticeable, even though loud volumes (by loud, i mean loud! it was loud enough that my friend who lives two blocks away's mom yelled at him to turn down his amp, because it was too loud for her, and he wasnt even playing, it was me, from two blocks away.).
  15. Mo' bass

    Mo' bass

    May 4, 2000
    Hey Muttluk,you smartass :D ! Thanks for your advice.

    My wireless receiver is in a rack and so is my amp. I don't want to run a long cord to an a/b box and another one bank to my amp just to be able to switch between the two of them. Now I just remove the wireless cable (what? :) ) from my amps input and put in a normal jack-jack cable.

    If I didn't have to do this I could make the front of my amp look a little neater. I could run the cable under the curved front of the Mo' bass. I've done that and it looks cool.

    For tuning during a gig I now connect my tuner to the 'tuner out' of the amp and turn down the pre-amp volume during tuning. This works fine as long as I don't forget to turn it up afterwards...
  16. Muttluk,

    At the time I was gonna use it to split my signal (from my Yamaha) and run it to two separate amps. I wasn't switching back and forth but rather running A & B together. I was getting an ugly crackling noise. Maybe it was a defective unit. I finally decided that for what I was trying to accomplish, simply splitting my signal, it'd be much easier to just wire some jacks together. It was cheaper, too.

Share This Page