re-saw help

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by skguitarsbasses, Dec 17, 2003.

  1. i finally ended up getting a bandsaw. i got the "ultimate 14" bandsaw" by grizzly. i also ordered the riser block kit, so that i can begin learning how to resaw and bookmatch.
    i have seen different fences available on-line, but i was wondering if anyone out there has made their own custom fence? if so, how did you construct it?
    do you use push blocks/ sticks when feeding the wood into the bandsaw?
    any help on fence construction, or a reputable re-saw fence to purchase would be much appreciated! thank you

  2. FBB Custom

    FBB Custom TalkBass Pro Commercial User

    Jan 26, 2002
    Owner: FBB Bass Works
    Some people don't use a typical fence for resaw. I've seen people who use one of those rafter angle squares as a fence so that there is a single point of contact right alongside the band. This allows you to "steer" the board in a way that you cannot with a regular bandsaw fence.

    I've also seen people make their own. This is because you've got to be able to set the angle of the fence with relation to the band. Each time you run a piece, it will want to feed at a certain angle that is rarely straight ahead. You need to figure this out and align the fence at that angle before you resaw.

    Sorry I don't have any particular brands or models for ya. I either do the rafter square method or sometimes I go without a fence if the board is thick enough to start and I am resawing a thick drop top for a bass.
  3. mslatter


    Apr 8, 2003
    The December issue of American Woodworker has an article entitled "Recipe for Resawing" or something similar with some decent pointers on setting up the saw for resawing. The Jan. issue is probably hitting the newsstands soon, so hurry.
  4. BrowneBasses

    BrowneBasses Bass Builder

    Sep 4, 2003
    Sparrow Bush, NY
    here check this out, you would either have to adapt it to your exsisting fence, well that is if your saw came with one or I'm sure that this site has some sort of regular fence that would work on your saw, hope this helps, but yeah you really don't want to use a flat fence for resaw, as you wouldn't really have any control over guiding the blade. Hope this helps
  5. FBB Custom

    FBB Custom TalkBass Pro Commercial User

    Jan 26, 2002
    Owner: FBB Bass Works
    That's what the square looks like. The most important things during resaw are to keep the face of the board parallel to the band and to keep the blade centered. You clamp the square flat side down with the square side closes to the band, half the thickness of your board away from the band. Use a featherboard to keep the board pressed up against the edge of the square.
  6. BrowneBasses

    BrowneBasses Bass Builder

    Sep 4, 2003
    Sparrow Bush, NY
    Haha, oops, I sould read more carefully, I didn't see that you posted the link that I put up there in my last post Shane. Oh well, but yeah that resaw guide works well.
  7. KSB - Ken Smith

    KSB - Ken Smith Banned Commercial User

    Mar 1, 2002
    Perkasie, PA USA
    Owner: Ken Smith Basses, Ltd.
    We use a .090 blade on our table saw and cut partially on either side. Then we go to the bandsaw and cut the web left in the middle. This helps avoid 'drift' by the blade especially with figured woods. You can use a fence as we also do on occasion when needed but the bottom of the board can shift slightly and angle the cut.
    Always keep a few wood scraps handy to use as push sticks near the band saw. Shape them as necessary. Throw them away when they are all cut up and replace them with fresh pieces. Do the same for you table saw as well as your jointer.
    Cut the wood, not your fingers!!
  8. BrowneBasses

    BrowneBasses Bass Builder

    Sep 4, 2003
    Sparrow Bush, NY
    Oh wow, yeah that sounds like a great idea letting the blade follow the path of least resistance. I'd give that a whirl if I had a table saw, but I don't :)

    As for the band saw blades to use for resaw, the best I've found are Timber Wolf band saw blades from Suffolk Machinery Corp (link below) I use 3/4" X 3AS-S .025" blade it's a 3 tooth per inch blade and works very well, and it's nice for resaw due to it's very thin kerf, they make the blades to any length that you need for your saw. Keeping your blade clean is very imortant too, I use a pitch and gum remover and then lubercate the blade with DriCote spray to prevent build up.
  9. thank you everyone for all of your help!

    i ordered the fasttrack fence, so i'm waiting for that to come in so that i can give it a shot

    one other concern i had was: when pushing the board to be resawn through, where would you keep applying pressure at to hold it against the fence?
    if i were to push from the side, parallel to the fence, i think the pressure would push the already cut portion against the blade and pinch it, or angle it off course.
    ken- should i use the pushstick to guide the lumber from the front edge and just push it through the blade?

    thanks again

  10. Like Ken, I use my table saw with a thin kerf blade for resawing. I don't have a bandsaw yet (oh but wait till after Christmas!)So after I've finished the deepest cuts, I use my handsaw to complete the split. I've got a saw with a Japanese style tooth array and it rips the center of maple very fast. Then a minute or two on the thickness sander and I've got a glueable piece right away.

    A word of caution when using this method. This procedure is one of the most dangerous you can attempt on a table saw. The largely exposed blade and kickback should be in the front of your mind at all times. I use 2 fences - one on each side of the workpiece and tall enough to completely hide the top of the blade at full height. I pass the workpiece through and then spin it end for end to make the second pass. I use 2 turns on the blade elevator between passes and this makes a very smooth resaw with an 80 tooth carbide blade.
  11. interesting
    do you think the double fence method would be equally useful on the bandsaw? if i were to get another grizzly fence and attach a second fasttrack resaw attachment. i could have one on either side and possibly have better control over the board(?)

  12. Woodboy


    Jun 9, 2003
    St. Louis, MO
    The best re-saw blade I have used is called the Wood Slicer from Highland Hardware in Atlanta. Your guides on your Grizzly have to be set exactly also. Don't start with your very best piece of wood! Re-sawing is fairly difficult on home/consumer type machinery. Finding the right feed angle is absolutely necessary. Good luck!
  13. FBB Custom

    FBB Custom TalkBass Pro Commercial User

    Jan 26, 2002
    Owner: FBB Bass Works
    I would think that two fences might get you into trouble. Bandsaw blades try to wander on these small consumer models. You need some flexibility to steer the board when the blade tries to get away.

    You should use a featherboard to keep the board close to your fence.
  14. I would second this and add that you should practice on denser woods - scrap that would be close in type to the wood you want to finish re-saw. The reason is that soft woods will be easy to cut and probably won't wander like Matt and Woodboy alluded to. Harder woods will be the real test. Especially those with strong grain patterns and pronounced differences among the soft and hard rings of the board.
  15. schuyler


    Aug 5, 2003
    Atlanta, GA
    i also am a fan of the wood slicer blades from highland hardware. i think the blade and set up is the most important thing here, since if you can minimize the blade wander, then you need less (or no) compensation for said wander. good roller guides are a must.

    believe it or not, the 18" bandsaw at my work has a 1" blade and we never have any lead angle. (and we use the stock delta fence.) i attribute 100% of this to my quality set-up. ;)
  16. well i just got my fasttrack resaw fence in the mail, and i'm waiting for my 105" x 3/4" 3tpi bandsaw blade from suffolk to arrive. hopefully it'll all come out well.

    thanks to everyone for the help
  17. Not to take anything away from your setup skills but backing them up with a 1" blade can only help. :D
  18. well i finally got all of the components together to re-saw. i got it all set up. practiced on a few pieces of wood, and they all came out just fine.
    then i tried to do the crotch walnut piece that i needed bookmatched for an order...didn't come out quite as nice as i would have hoped.
    the blade ended up moving around a lot more on this piece that any of my practice pieces. i think it will be fine once i run it through a surface planer to even everything out.

    another problem i had was that after i resawed the wood, the pieces warped a bit on me. i have had them clamped to a flat piece of wood for a day, and i'm hoping it will help to straighten them out.
    any tips?

    - edit: mike browne actually ended up calling me last night and helping me tremendously. has to be one of the nicest guys on the planet!

  19. BrowneBasses

    BrowneBasses Bass Builder

    Sep 4, 2003
    Sparrow Bush, NY
    Haha, thanks for the kind words Shane.