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Re-speaking my stack (replacement questions)

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by andruca, Jan 18, 2005.

  1. andruca


    Mar 31, 2004
    Madrid (Spain)
    Hi everybody! Ok, up to now I owned a Hartke 3500 head + 4.5XL cab (4x10"+5") + 215XL cab (2x15"). They sound nice but through the years of Hartke use I developed a taste for paper cones + piezo horn. But I love my cabs (they're DEEP, sound BIG and look FANTASTIC) so I think, for a modest price, I can replace their speakers to accomodate them to my taste and also to increase power handling as I changed my 3500 head for a pre/power setup (output being a Behringer Europower EP1500 -700W@2ohms/450W@4ohms/280W@8ohms). In the past I noticed that every speaker farts out at certain levels even if it is designed to hold the power applied to it (my Hartke's rarely do, but I'm always in the limit of farting). I read and learned a lot about excursion, and such things and I plan to do the following (and correct every wrong word you find here):

    Replace the 2 15"s with Eminence Kappa Pro 15LF's 8ohms (in perallel, 1200W total)
    Replace the 4 10"s with Eminence Kappa Pro 10's 4ohms (in series/parallel, 2000W total)
    Replace the 5" with a piezo horn (with some x-over and adjustable horn volume circuit)

    The idea is to have two 4ohm cabs which will largely handle the maximum 450W per channel my power amp can give. I want to be loud and at the same time, hi-fi, I mean, no farts please. Is this the right way to get it done? Is there a better speaker choice? Thanks everybody!

  2. billfitzmaurice

    billfitzmaurice Commercial User

    Sep 15, 2004
    New Hampshire
    Owner, Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design
    Your driver choices are fine, but you can't just drop a driver into a box and have it work properly. You have to use a box program like WinISD to make sure that your driver specs are compatable with the box. Don't sweat the watts; you don't hear watts, you hear decibels. It's frequency response and sensitivity that count. You may well find that what's limiting your output is the cabinetry, not the drivers, and that to get more output you have too look in another direction.
  3. Eric Moesle

    Eric Moesle

    Sep 21, 2001
    Columbus OH
    I used to own those exact same cabs, worked fine for me in a blues bar band for years.

    Please consider these points:

    - If you put those new speakers into those cabs, you'll have to alter each cab's port tuning. Easier for the round-ported 215, but a real invasive process for the shelf-ported 410.

    - Four Kappa Pro 10's in that cab will make it HEAVY HEAVY HEAVY. I know because I've done this with one of my Aguilar 410 cabs, its now a lead brick (though it sounds great).

    - This is not a cost efficient endeavor. You will spend much more doing it this way than you would just buying new cabs that already sound good, and selling your old cabs. Plus, the modified cabs will likely have a reduced resale value (despite your opinion of "upgrade").
  4. andruca


    Mar 31, 2004
    Madrid (Spain)
    OK guys, thanks for the advice! So I think I'm looking for new cabs. Any recomendations? I think the ideal for me would be an Avatar B410Pro and 2 Avatar B115H cabs, but they aren't available here in Europe. The other option I was thinking (I need 2x15" + 4x10" + horn) is to buy a Warwick Terminator 2x10" + 2x15" + horn biamp cab (available only in Europe), also equipped with Eminence speakers (but unfortunately not top of the line Kappas), see of I like it and optionally add a 2x10" to it. I look for cabs which can stand 500W+ each with absolutely no distortion, which can reproduce up to 15KHz and with huge sub-lows. Any other cabs that I should check out? Thanks!